I had the G van mirrors on mine, biggest issues with them is the wing window hits and they sit out of level slightly.
I bought the LMC stainless ones for my resto
I considered the TMI stuff when I started my project, if they had some more conservative options I would still e considering them. All their stuff seems to have colored stitching, metal rivets or grommets, and the only cloth patterns are plaids
I sprayed mine with 2K surfacer and sanded
I'd bet that 2 of the rattle cans you chose will go down like surfacer and need to be sanded, the only "thin" one is the duplicolor
Rehabbing the factory stuff is definitely worth considering, the factory wire is real high quality stuff and you can get a lot of replacement harness plugs for the $700 an aftermarket kit goes for. I was planning on doing a kit in mine until I fished the harness out and took a good look at it...
I ran 2.25” Hooker Super Comp Turbo mufflers, dual exhaust with no cats and side exit just past the rear tires on my square for 10 years and loved them.
Quieter than the average Flowmaster but still noticeably louder and deeper sounding than the stock v8 exhaust on the GMT400’s. I don’t...
Also, I'd recommend getting a yoke from a driveline shop, they're likely to have one in stock or can glance at yours and know what to order.
Yokes are so dang expensive it would stink having to deal with mail order or online stores if you got the wrong one.
Yup, Corporate 10 bolt
IIRC I used this pinion seal (below) but Summit wont show my order online
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-8622/make/chevrolet/model/k10/year/1980
These turned out great!
I did mine in Argent Silver 2K Urethane, anything 2K should hold up to gasoline and other chemicals. I also agree with @Grit dog, the prep work is key for a quality and lasting finish.
The firewall seal is the first part to go on the column when assembling….
The shift link tube is one of the very first parts to go in when assembling a column, right after you install the grommet. It’s a big job to do right
Honestly Sir, I wouldn't want to use a cheapo torque wrench for engine assembly but for torqueing hubs and lug nuts a rental is just fine.
Also the torque on the hub nut is not super critical, its just to tighten everything up past "Zero" and preload the bearings slightly. After they're...
^^^^ This
That minimal amount of play in the pitman arm could be drastically worse with the weight of the truck on it.
When you tweaked the tires while it was jacked up did you have someone looking at the ball joints and control arm bushings?
I sure wouldn't drive it if you can move the tire...
I lost a front tire a few blocks from the tire shop when I was 16, I thought for sure something would be destroyed. Nope, the backing plate from my 10 bolt cut a gouge in the asphalt and wasn’t even bent.
Reverse to forward clunk can be loss of motion in the differential too.
You can put a floor jack under the oil pan and gently lift the engine while looking at the mounts. Also, under the trans pan and look at the trans mounts.
No…. Hung the trans with the floor jack then just mounted the TC by hand.
In that picture we were figuring out how to alter the trans mount to get the motor sitting close to level and driveline angle decent. The crossmember was for a 4 speed manual so it was way too low.