C/K started again with the newer OBS trucks in 88. The older Squares continued in the Sub, K5 & many variations of 20 & 30 series trucks. The R is a 2x & V is a 4x in the Squares 88‐91. You have a good looking & unmolested appearing truck.
HS
There's a myriad of issues that come with a body lift. The bumpers are the start of it, followed by the fan shroud & shifter link, fuel fillers, brake lines to the m/c and the frame gaps; along with the low hanging fruit fuel tanks & straps.
My very first Square had one and I reckon I got...
I've knocked the rivets out to remove the crossmember on dad's C20 Crew & have also moved the spring shackle that was riveted.
You should be able to replace the one rail by doing just as you stated. It'll be more work but retaining the VIN plus the memory of "daddy's hands" will be worth it...
We all said the same! My son & a friend went with me on the trip & when we "beheld" the artwork I immediately said "these guys methed up & actually spelled thing instead of thang". My son joked the entire trip home of the artwork & had us hysterical by the time we got home.
Being a true son of...
I hit the back of the cab & headboard with the rattle can to seal in the basecoat because I knew that the ole paint gun won't a-fittin' when the bed was back on.
It didn't look bad UNTIL I hit it with the urethane in the spray gun. It's still not terribly noticeable because of location though.
HS
When trimming out my '87, I used Rustoleum Laquer clear over the High Teck basecoat. This was on the cab rear & bed front. When I jambed the cab & inside the bed I used Dynacoat Urethane clear. The difference in gloss was like day & night. Urethane clear for the win!
Well, I haven't been able to do much the past few months. I started on my 63 Ford back in January and am just now getting the trunk cylinder & trim placed back. It has been on my lift these past few months because I've not had time to mess with extracurricular stuff. Now, with being out of...
There are so many projects left unfinished because folks wanted them to be perfect. I got over that crap years ago. None of my junk is perfect but much of it is good. Many times at shows I hear folks comment about rock chips or swirl marks, rust bubbles or scratches and dents; it don't phase me...
Welcome from The Tarheel State. Work on those crafty device skills and provide some pics of "Jack" so we can get a visual on what you're working on.
HS
Welcome from Central NC. We know it's not a diesel by seeing the carb in the pic & the seat looks great too. I like it and it looks to be a great truck.
HS
You can do the swap & it's not terrible. The holes should be in the frame where the bell crank/Z-bar fastens. The other end should go into the bell housing on the ball stud. Did you get a pedal assembly or just get a clutch pedal & the long thru-bolt?
I built my dad's ole '55 6100 2nd Series...
I just used a roll from LMC. It would have been nice to have pre-cut but it would also be nice to be a millionaire. The roll worked as did my patience. I'm also starting on my second million as I've given up on the first...