M122 blown 5.3 in my 99 silveraydo

Made a smidge more progress this weekend.

I had been working on getting my ssei up and going again.

Nothing crazy... got the radiator hoses all done now that I found the correct serpentine belt to accommodate the ICT billet brackets.
Swapped my 60# injectors out for 80# injectors.
I need to put proper crossmember bolts in which I have.. put on my oil filter which apparently is a gen 4 filter that fits that car oil pan i have..


Add atf, dump coolant and fuel in, and stick the holley wideband in the pipe, and then i can turn it on! Hopefully this week!!

So sunday I got the truck cranked up, heard it run a bit. Sounded great. Sounds like a monster. You can feel the torque. It was overfueling by alot, pulling like -44% lol, but little throttle bumps made it rev up solid. That big 103mm TB is touchy.

I pulled the fuel back, and cranked it up yesterday after work. It was running, I was revving it a little, then it abruptly stopped and made a squeak when it came to a stop.
Yall know what that squeak was. We all do if we've wrenched on motor before.

I had good oil pressure. Like 65-75lb

So im assuming the people who built it didnt go a great job with bearing clearances and made them too tight... it was on the tight side when we rolled it over manually anyways.

But now, its stuck. Won't even budge with a breaker bar.

I guess ill drop the pan soon and inspect the mains,

Best case scenario I can roll in good ones with proper clearance.

Worst case its gotta come back out..

Maybe we can fix it , then lock it up again!

Jk, the forged bottom end has taken 1800hp in other applications

HOOZ YER DADI?

Hmmm

Whoeever put the motor together did a pi$$ poor job. As some of you know, the LS has 6 bolt mains. All of the side main bolts were finger tight, and half of the vertical main bolts werent torqued.

While removing one of the rod bolts, it seized and snapped off on me... it just kept getting worse

So im pulling the motor back out, tearing it down completely, and going thru the whole thing personally so I can know its not gonna fly apart at 7k

I forgot to add, the "builders" had the rods at .0015 clearance on the bearings for the rods. I didnt even get far enough to check main clearance. Presumably they were OK. I took all of the caps off except the rear cap ... its held in by the rear main cover. All of the bearings i checked looked good

Only #7 or #8's rod bearing was trashed, but regardless .0015 on rod bearings is garbage.

Well main cap #1 had a deep line in it,

But the crank is clean at least!

doh....sorry for incorrect info.

Keeping an eye on ur progress as I'd like to do it to mine.....but will prolly never happen lol.

Camar068 said:

you need more clearance from what I've read for forced induction. I'd start with 0.0025. You're going to have to line bore a replacement cap to that block.

Keeping an eye on ur progress as I'd like to do it to mine.....but will prolly never happen lol.

Click to expand...

You need extra clearance on the piston rings for forced induction. Rod and mains should be clearanced for the type of use, size of the journal, and type of oil you will be running. I usually try to have mine around 0.0019-0.0021 on my LS's for the rod clearance. 0.0020-0.0025 on the mains. With forced induction and mostly racing type behavior, I'd run them a bit bigger like 20-25 on the rods and 25-30 on the mains with a good 10w-30 oil.

The other, more important, measurement in my mind... since you are boosting it and hitting it with the bottle, would be to make sure you have a lot of piston ring gap so you don't seize a ring up and destroy the block.

Yea im gonna aim for around .0025 on caps and that .003 or so on the mains, seeing as superchargers quite literally pound bearings downwards in addition to the huffing gas pounding them too. Im definitely gonna go with tri metal bearings
The "builders" also had bi metal bearings in there smh.


And i was honestly a little hesitant to run the motor anyways seeing as I dont know what the "builders" gapped the rings to. The pro ls pistons don't come gapped so the dumba$$es mightve not gapped them at all.
Id rather have a lil blowby than blow a ring land out.

Camar068, the front main bearing had the line in it, not the actual cap or crank, so hopefully I dont need to do any line boring

At this point ill spend whatever $ and put whatever labor I need to into this build. I want it to be solid as chit so I can take a 50-100 shot at peak boost lol

Plus , I can say "i built this motor" vs saying someone else built it... no offense to anyone but running driveline components other people build rattles my nerves, I guess im just prideful

@Vbb199 I'd call it "Cautious"

Vbb199 said:

At this point ill spend whatever $ and put whatever labor I need to into this build. I want it to be solid as chit so I can take a 50-100 shot at peak boost lol

Plus , I can say "i built this motor" vs saying someone else built it... no offense to anyone but running driveline components other people build rattles my nerves, I guess im just prideful

Click to expand...

I get it... there's just no accounting for people. I've seen some wild stuff when looking at what other people thought was OK to put in a vehicle.

Surprisingly, in 2 hours time I got everything off of the motor except radiator hoses and the transmission itself.
I guess thats the perks of building your own wiring harness... everything was really easy to remove and lay to the side.

Perhaps friday or saturday ill have it out

Bextreme04 said:

You need extra clearance on the piston rings for forced induction. Rod and mains should be clearanced for the type of use, size of the journal, and type of oil you will be running. I usually try to have mine around 0.0019-0.0021 on my LS's for the rod clearance. 0.0020-0.0025 on the mains. With forced induction and mostly racing type behavior, I'd run them a bit bigger like 20-25 on the rods and 25-30 on the mains with a good 10w-30 oil.

The other, more important, measurement in my mind... since you are boosting it and hitting it with the bottle, would be to make sure you have a lot of piston ring gap so you don't seize a ring up and destroy the block.

Click to expand...

doh.....Thx Bex, sorry VBB. Got em mixed up. Edited other post so others don't have to read through my confusion.