wow this is the most reply's i've gotten anywhere, so thx guys!
I'm wondering if that 24v start relay has something to do with it. does that need to be changed to a 12v starter relay?
The truck was converted using the rosecommon method, batteries are wired parallel.
Also pls see the steel...
My 1986 M1031 was converted to 12v by an imbecile, box scrapped and I'm having some electrical starting issues, you can see the link below.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/melted-6-fusible-link-won’t-start.214514/
I'm wondering what I've missed? This #16 fusible link melting then somehow...
I have run 235/85-16's for years without any problems and 33/12.50-15's on the half ton with an 8.5 Western Pro Plow also.
What is the wheel width and spacing of the hub?
Likely the rub is with the running board on the passenger side, correct?
K, V, or D springs alone won't give you lift...
so i have a 1982 K20 4x4 6.2L and i just put 285/75/16 MT tires on there. They are pretty stuffed and rarely/barely rub with the stepsides taken off. I need a 2 inch lift... so I also have 1986 D30 M1008 that im going to put a 4" lift on with 37's....
So my question is.. can i swap the D30...
cleaned about 10lbs of mud out of the truck... the floor mats were rotted. i was going to EVA SOUND DEADENER KIT-2PC and HEAT SHIELD KIT-2PC from LMC and replace the one piece rubber mat. the floor pans look pretty good.. prob just buff the rust off and spray etching primer before the new mats...
wow brother.. thats the info im looking for!! i want to eventually have most cars diesel for the family on bio.. any wagon diesel car for example, hopefully BMW in the future as our 2006 e91 XI gets 14mpg around town. horrible.
anyways.. what kind of fuel lines should i look into? steel...