Everything seems to be working fine right now my thermostat is similar just different manufacturer. Hose isn’t collapsing and overflow tank is operating as it should. Now I’m just trying to get my TV cable adjusted properly. Ha
Well the cap was not the problem I don’t think I had enough coolant in the engine block. I pulled the thermostat to make sure it was working correctly and the coolant was sitting well below where the thermostat sat. When I was running the engine I turned the heater on to circulate some coolant...
Like I said everything is brand new down to the hose clamps I double checked the pump I have a v belt system it is not reverse flow unless it was packaged wrong. looked up the thermostat it stated it is designed to allow trapped air in the system to escape. Unless it is not operating...
So I just installed my new engine in my 1984 K10. New rebuilt 350 stroked to 383. Started engine on run stand 2 weeks ago to make sure everything ran fine. Finally started up engine for first time today in truck annd engine ran fine. Ran for 45 minutes in driveway hoping to burp any air...
Well my plan is to bolt it in 2 locations where the current rods connect and have the stock hang over one inch and drill the hole for the rod to
Connect to. I’m hoping that should be sufficient
Thank you I think I am going to go that route I will get a piece of stock about 9 or 10 inches long and attach the bar on the one side to that. I just hate eliminating it.
I just swapped out the engine on my 1984 K10 I’m currently trying to get everything back together. There are 2 stabilizer bars that connect from the engine mount plate and connect to the flywheel cover. My new oil pan is wider than the old pan and now the stabilizer bar on the driver side...
I’m in the process of an Engine swap on my 1984 K10 , first time under taking an engine swap before. Decided to replace the clutch on the fan as well as give the fan a fresh coat of paint. I just want to be sure I’m putting the fan back on in the right direction. Does the Front stamp on the...
The slip yoke was removed to replace the u joint. And the u joint that attaches to the rear differential is held in by 4 bolts and 2 clips so I have 2 identical ends in the shaft. I guess square root is right it’s 50/50 at this point.
So I removed my rear driveshaft to repair a leak coming from my transfer case rear output seal. Decided to replace u joints also And clean up the driveshaft. Then I wire wheeled the shaft and then decided to paint it. I accidentally painted over the my mark showing me which end was which...