Think I need new springs? shocks? ROUGH RIDE

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Bextreme04

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I'd try putting new shocks on it. Just get standard duty shocks if you want a good ride. Also, squirt some oil in between the spring leaves so they move easier.

DO NOT put oil or grease between leaves on a leaf spring. It will attract and hold dirt and will act like sandpaper between the leaves.

If you want to let them work better and smoother, take them apart and hit them with a flap wheel to clean them up. Replace the teflon slders on the tips of the leaves and for extra slipperyness you can paint the contact surfaces with a product called EZ-Slide(you can get it from Tractor Supply Company). Then reassemble the pack and spray the outside of the whole spring pack with Rustoleum Professional enamel. Slap in your new bushings and it will be like new.
 

Grit dog

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Sure doesn't look like it would ride that rough.
What are your tire pressures? Could be a contributing factor if youre running the tires real stiff.
 

rt66paul

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Get some penetrating oil on all these parts and hit with a hammer to warm them up. Drive for a few days and the oil may work its way in, so you can break the threads loose. The trick is to douse them early and set up some movement.
 

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Sure doesn't look like it would ride that rough.
What are your tire pressures? Could be a contributing factor if youre running the tires real stiff.

It's been a min sense I checked. But somewhere in the ball park of 38-40psi. What is considered stiff?
 

83Burban

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I've been pricing parts. And I kinda think I maybe want to just go ahead and put a small lift on it. It's really not that much more $$$ if im allready replacing all the shocks. I think 2.5" would look tuff. Not sure if I want to go as much as 4"...but idk

I have monroe adjustable air shocks on my big block lincoln and they are nice for crusing and let me raise and lower the ass .

Anybody use air shocks in this manner on their squares?
 

Bextreme04

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I've been pricing parts. And I kinda think I maybe want to just go ahead and put a small lift on it. It's really not that much more $$$ if im allready replacing all the shocks. I think 2.5" would look tuff. Not sure if I want to go as much as 4"...but idk

I have monroe adjustable air shocks on my big block lincoln and they are nice for crusing and let me raise and lower the ass .

Anybody use air shocks in this manner on their squares?

You can get some nice riding springs at the 2.5-4" lift range. Tuff Country would be your best value with a good ride. ORD or Deaver are probably even better riding but much more pricey.
 

83Burban

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The fender wells is what throws you off.... theyre deeper up front than the rear.


This is all 3/4 ton suspension on a 1/2 ton truck.... it gave it about 2 or 3" if lift....

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Would I be able to run 32s at the stock ride hight? It seems much taller than the burbs we had growing up.

I was told that this truck was "built to tow". Is it possible that this is 3/4ton suspension? This is a K10, not K20. Is there a visible difference between the two?
 

Vbb199

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Would I be able to run 32s at the stock ride hight? It seems much taller than the burbs we had growing up.

I was told that this truck was "built to tow". Is it possible that this is 3/4ton suspension? This is a K10, not K20. Is there a visible difference between the two?


Stock k10 should have like, 5 or 4 leafs in back i think.

Stock Front will have 2? Or 3? With a negative arch (arch towards motor)
 

Bextreme04

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Would I be able to run 32s at the stock ride hight? It seems much taller than the burbs we had growing up.

I was told that this truck was "built to tow". Is it possible that this is 3/4ton suspension? This is a K10, not K20. Is there a visible difference between the two?

I have run 33" tires on a stock C20 with no issues. I had 32" tires on my K20 with no issues and 35's cleared with minor front fender trimming. The 3/4 ton springs will be obviously MUCH beafier in the back than the 1/2 ton. Probably 7/1 or 8/1 spring packs.
 

83Burban

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Come take a ride in my 85 k20. It's got cucv axles, ORD suspension and all new poly bushings. You'll never complain about your ride quality after that.

If I'm ever out in the SW I'll take you up on that.

Lol I am assuming this set up cost upwords of 2k tho, right? I doubt I can swing it. And i have no clue what CUCV axles are. Ill have to do some research.

Was hoping to take her out to Eagle CO (9.5ish hours) next week. But I dont think its in the cards. I think she would do it. But i dont want to chance it just yet.
 

Bextreme04

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If I'm ever out in the SW I'll take you up on that.

Lol I am assuming this set up cost upwords of 2k tho, right? I doubt I can swing it. And i have no clue what CUCV axles are. Ill have to do some research.

Was hoping to take her out to Eagle CO (9.5ish hours) next week. But I dont think its in the cards. I think she would do it. But i dont want to chance it just yet.

The front and rear greasable kevlar bushing kit is about $200, I bought front Tuff Country EZ-Ride springs for $100 locally and used rear 97 K2500 Suburban springs that you can get from almost any junk yard for $50. I rebuilt the rear springs with new teflon sliders, but if you are just careful with the set you get from the junkyard you can probably just run what you get as-is. You will need to cut out the rivets and move the front spring hangers forward 4" for the GMT-400 60" springs. Tuff country lift shocks run around $50/ea. You can move the ebrake mounts and rear brake mounting plate to accomodate the lift, or you would need to buy extended brake lines for front and rear. They are about $50 for front brake lines and about the same for the rear.

A full ORD spring set is about $2000, plus you would need all the other parts that I have listed(except for maybe the bushing kit)
 

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ORD uses Alcan and they have issues reading a measuring tape from time to time. They do ride pretty well in conjunction with the Bilstein 5125 shocks and a longer tension shackle out back.

My next set is coming from Deaver. I’m curious to see how they compare.
 

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I believe the comment about sway bar froze is right on as one of the first things to check.When I first modified my truck,I put the drop brackets included with the lift kit for the sway bar.

However,when I made a few other mods and removed the swaybar,my truck gained an inch in lift on the front easily.I was amazed that even with the relocation brackets on,how much the swaybar restricted my suspension.This was proved yet again on the first ride without the swaybar...much more better.

Obviously,I agree with all the other comments and suggestions.I also think there is other contributing factors.Also,maybe put a loaded trailer on it and see how it does.I have a newer 3/4 ton truck that I promise rides worse than your burb,however,when it has a 800lb 4wheeler in the bed,it rides so well,I never wanna unload it.
 

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