Stroker Kits - Rotating Assemblies - Better Brands?

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Doppleganger

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Any you fellas built a stroker motor? If so, what brands of rotating assemblies are the best? I have heard high reviews on brands like Scat - yet they look to be one of the cheapest (cost wise). Summit has Lunati, Weisco and Eagle for a little more - brands I thought would be way up there.

Did you use stock pistons with new conrods?

Dont want the hype....just wondering what you've used - what took a licking and kept on ticking.

TIA.
 

Shorty81

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I purchased a complete rotating assembly from Skip White Performance. Skat crank, clevite bearings, weisco pistons. This kit put this 496 at 10.6-1 compression. The bore is .060, Erson cam. Pump has is fine as long as it's 93 octane. This is a very happy engine. It is a mild build, makes gobs of low RPM power. She does better on fuel than when it was a 454. I would recommend them.
 

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I have an eagle stroker crank that needs turned (BBC). I called the guys at Borowski Race Engines about turning and balancing, and the guy basically said throw it in the garbage and buy a Callies crank.

I'm going to listen to him.
 

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Got an Eagle setup for my boat engine. All forged. H-beam rods and Mahle pistons. My machinist was able to internally balance it without weighting the crank.
9.7-1 compression.
Got 300 hrs on it and runs strong. No issues at all.

Have good buddy who owns a garage and builds high end drag engines.
Anything under 600 HP he's had a few issues with Scat. Less issues with Eagle.
Any engine he builds more than 600hp, he uses nothing but Callies. Just be prepared to get your wallet out.
 

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I purchased a complete rotating assembly from Skip White Performance. Skat crank, clevite bearings, weisco pistons. This kit put this 496 at 10.6-1 compression. The bore is .060, Erson cam. Pump has is fine as long as it's 93 octane. This is a very happy engine. It is a mild build, makes gobs of low RPM power. She does better on fuel than when it was a 454. I would recommend them.

Thanks for your comment.
What heads?
 

Shorty81

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I am running 781 heads. They are pretty much stock.
 

MikeB

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My C10 has a $600-something (2015 price) Eagle 355 balanced kit for a one-piece main seal block. Crank and rods are entry level Eagle, pistons are Speed Pro hypers, rings are Hastings, but I can't remember which bearings. Even came with an externally balanced flexplate. Pretty decent parts for the money; certainly comparable to OE. Bearing clearance was a little inconsistent, but within spec. Runout on main journals was minor and pistons were spot-on. The engine has been running for 4+ years now and makes 45-50psi when hot with 10W-30 oil, and around 25 psi at idle. Oil consumption is zero.

If I had a do-over I'd get a SCAT 383 kit with D-dish pistons, SCAT 9000-series crank, and their floating pin rods with 7/16" cap screws. As I recall, cost was around $1100-$1200 back then. At the time, I didn't want to spend more money or mess with clearancing the block.
 

shiftpro

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What size valves? 2.19-1.88 or 2.07-1.72??

Did 781s come with 2.07/1.72....?

This is news to me.
I am running 781 heads. They are pretty much stock.

Ok these will work just fine with a 496, but would benefit with at least larger exhaust valves and some basic unshrouding in the combustion chamber and opening the bowls below the valves. And a lot of material can be removed from the valve guide bosses
especially again the exhaust side.
The deck can be 'ported' too. Later model (89 for sure) blocks have the valve unshrouding cut into the deck but this should be enlarged. Trace the 'unshrouding' onto the deck from your gasket and grind it back to that point.
Oh and speaking of the deck there is a lot to mill off there as well. Best to do it last, after you do a pre assembly of the bottom end
then you can measure how far down the hole the piston reaches at TDC.
I'll do a pre assembly just to measure deck height over the TDC. But I'll only use three main bearings and install pistons #1 and #8. That way I can determine and hopefully verify the align hone (either factory or otherwise) is square with the deck. If it's not, it CAN be corrected with a proper deck job.

While your prepping the block, grind a 1/4 or 3/8"s groove down from the big oil port in the front of the block. You want to let the oil galley (under the intake) drain faster so make a groove in this oil hole which will also slop more oil onto your timing chain. At least when you hit the brakes!
Vids on this are easy to find at youtoob.
 

shiftpro

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He talks about block prep a little further on.
 

QBuff02

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I have an eagle stroker crank that needs turned (BBC). I called the guys at Borowski Race Engines about turning and balancing, and the guy basically said throw it in the garbage and buy a Callies crank.

I'm going to listen to him.


I'll take that Eagle stroker crank for a BBC off your hands if you're just going to throw it away! Lol
 

MikeB

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I have an eagle stroker crank that needs turned (BBC). I called the guys at Borowski Race Engines about turning and balancing, and the guy basically said throw it in the garbage and buy a Callies crank.

That's certainly true if your budget will handle a $2,000 crank. Or if you're building a racing engine, the last place you'd want to cut corners is the crankshaft.

Wonder where the OP went, and what kind of engine he's building? Did I miss something?
 

Doppleganger

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Nope....still here. Just listening. lol

I found a new LS bare block for cheap. Just adding up now what it would take to make it whole and maybe stroke it, better pistons, etc while I'm at it. Debating on using all stock, reflashing the ECU, etc or just starting over with all new and maybe an aftermarket tuneable system.

I know there's big price differences but I have no idea how much.....might be worth it - might not.
 

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