wheel hop

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coreys87

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Finally got my new axle in 3:83 with lockrite locker. Only problem is some bad wheel hop. Anyone have traction bars on a 4wd halfton? My trucks riding on 35" tires btw
 

crazy4offroad

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How much lift you have? Blocks in the rear? Standard trans?
 

coreys87

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4inch lift. blocks and sm465
 

sean1960

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It might help lessen the wheel hop if you switched to 4 inch lift springs and no blocks. The blocks work as a lever allowing to much spring wrap.
 

crazy4offroad

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Yeah either lift springs or shackle flip kit. The SM465 accentuates wheelhop exponentially compared to an auto trans.
 

HotRodPC

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I'm with Sean and C4 on this one. I doubt very much that that traction bars will help in the least bit, since the bumpers would never have a chance of hitting the leafs since you're on blocks. For that to happen, you'd have some very major rear end wrap, and it's done to late by that point. And if you corrected the rear end wrap problem, then I doubt you'd need traction bars since you wouldn't have wheel hop then. :shrug: Just a guess.
 

hirschdalechevy

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Your lift block's have angled the pinion to far up , so you need to get new block's with less angle , buy some shim's and shim it back down , or buy rear leaf's with the right lift you need . I had a 74 4sp long bed with a brand new 6" lift and 35's with the same problem and I did not have the money for spring's in the back , so I got new centering pin's and 2 degree shim's , put it all in , wheel hop gone and my driveline angle was still fine.All you have going on here is your diff is rolled up to far , fix that and you are good to go.

:patriot::patriot::patriot:
 

coreys87

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where can i find shims? cant seem to find them
 

coreys87

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thankyou!
 

bucket

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I'm with Sean and C4 on this one. I doubt very much that that traction bars will help in the least bit, since the bumpers would never have a chance of hitting the leafs since you're on blocks. For that to happen, you'd have some very major rear end wrap, and it's done to late by that point. And if you corrected the rear end wrap problem, then I doubt you'd need traction bars since you wouldn't have wheel hop then. :shrug: Just a guess.

You're thinking of the "slapper bar" type of traction bar. The traction bars used here would be the ones that look like old ladder bars (before all the tubbed pro street 4-link stuff). They mount with brackets welded to the axle tube, then usually run up to a crossmember and the bar is fastened to the crossmember with some type of shackle. The shackle keeps things from binding up, since the traction bar is longer than the forward half of the leaf spring.
 

HotRodPC

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You're thinking of the "slapper bar" type of traction bar. The traction bars used here would be the ones that look like old ladder bars (before all the tubbed pro street 4-link stuff). They mount with brackets welded to the axle tube, then usually run up to a crossmember and the bar is fastened to the crossmember with some type of shackle. The shackle keeps things from binding up, since the traction bar is longer than the forward half of the leaf spring.

Guess I'm old shcool, cuz I call traction bars, traction bars, and ladder bars, ladder bars. I didn't know ladder bars were traction bars, although, there is purpose is to increase traxction and prevernt wrap.
 

coreys87

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Guess I'm old shcool, cuz I call traction bars, traction bars, and ladder bars, ladder bars. I didn't know ladder bars were traction bars, although, there is purpose is to increase traxction and prevernt wrap.

to each their own
 

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Don't use those little aluminum shims from Summit Racing. Use steel shims from DIY4X or WFO Concepts.

IMO, the best thing you can do is get a shackle flip. Gets rid of the axle-wrap inducing blocks and retains the original leafs for best ride quality and performance.
 

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