should i lift it??

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highdesertrange

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imho a 4 inch lift is just right. just enough not to much. make sure you do the steering arm and I like to put the weld on frame reinforce on before you have trouble. highdesertranger
 

jgorski369

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Which lift do you think would be best for my truck? I have heard a lot of good things bout a lot of different lift kits I just want one that's looks nice on my beast of a truck (as all my friends call it) I mean I want to take it up in the hills to a little bit just for so fun and maybe a new paint job.
 

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Which lift do you think would be best for my truck? I have heard a lot of good things bout a lot of different lift kits I just want one that's looks nice on my beast of a truck (as all my friends call it) I mean I want to take it up in the hills to a little bit just for so fun and maybe a new paint job.

Have you decided yet if you're going with 4in or 6in??? Do you have a budget in mind or do you need to cheap out?
 

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My 86 k10 had 8 and 35s and it was a tank.


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I'm going with 4 inch and 35s. I want to go cheap if possible but if I have to spend a little more I'm willing to.
 

HotRodPC

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That's good for keeping COG (Center of Gravity) lower, but keep in mind, you get aggresive with the 35's you will rub at times. You'd be OK with 33's to get aggressive. The other option you'd have with 4in and 35's is to trim the fenders a bit. It doesn't look bad if nicely done. And then the other option for after the fact remorse, that most of us try to avoid, is a body lift. Not sure an inch body lift would get it done, but I'd sure try to keep it at 1 inch if I could and no more than 2 for sure. Anymore than that, it starts looking like **** with bumper gaps, fuel tanks hanging down etc.
 

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With little lift you get hung up In the mud and trails. Plus it's way cool driving sky high threw town. Rough country 6 inch was good in my 3/4 for 550


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HotRodPC

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With little lift you get hung up In the mud and trails. Plus it's way cool driving sky high threw town. Rough country 6 inch was good in my 3/4 for 550


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True in some scenarios. But with only 4 inch increase in tire size you're only gaining 2 inches ground clearance on the axle housings. I think I'd like 6in and 35's myself.

On one of mine I'm going with what I got for FREE, and I'm pretty sure it's 4in Rancho front lift springs. Then with the rear spring upgrade from 52in half ton springs to 56in 3/4 ton springs and 2in lift blocks I hope be sitting pretty level and will run 33's.
 

Chuck

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In my blazer I had 4 inch ranch and 35s and I was not impressed. 37s and 6 inch is min unless it's on pavement.


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HotRodPC

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In my blazer I had 4 inch ranch and 35s and I was not impressed. 37s and 6 inch is min unless it's on pavement.


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So you're saying as far as lift height? You wanted more lift? Or the 4in Rancho springs and the 35in tires were junk?
 

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Just the 4 inch was to small for bagging, As it goes now adays I wouldn't go less the 8-10 but I live with snow and skeg.


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Just the 4 inch was to small for bagging, As it goes now adays I wouldn't go less the 8-10 but I live with snow and skeg.


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Ahh I get it. I'd like more too, but I'm going with I got for cheap as in FREE. And don't want to get to high where it starts costing even more money for things like crossover steering. Figured someday I might be able to afford one of those 8in spring lifts with 38's or so and crossover steering. But that's going to be a good while. And by the time I get there, probably a useless issue since I might not be able to get in it.
 

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I pieced mine together for cheap and now as I can I am replacing. I got cheap 8 inch springs used for 150 , with 2 inch recurve and easy inch up front, home made shackle flip in the back and 4 inch block. I picked up the cross over steering 200 on eBay incomplete and I should of ordered from diy4x for 350. Before I used the steering block 70$. I ordered the 52 beyond kit for 200 shipped. I am ordering 56 inch lifted springs now 450 shipped. With the axle froward I use 9os front drive shaft from auto. With shackle flip in the back I use stock drive shaft. I run 38s and still cut out a **** load of steel and it still bottoms out. I use sway bar disconnect for the high way. Seems to work ok.


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Chuck

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But 4 inch and 35s will be a good start for free. Pick up the easy inch and move the axle forward. Your just gonna use a lot more momentum


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HotRodPC

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Think it's needed with just 4in lift? This is why I'm going with a 4in lift. Didn't figure I'd have to many issues, with inching foward, steering issues, lengthening shafts etc. I figure I might have to extend the brake lines and shocks that's about it. :shrug:

This inch forward you're talking about is done with a flat rate isn't it?
 

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