RETRO-Mod: Jeep intermediate steering shaft

[HotRodPC]

So here is what the Jeep shaft looks like now separated into 2 pieces. Notice the notches in the smaller diameter section that goes into the bigger diameter section. I'm sure those notches are filled with this rubbery substance that I was melting down out of the shaft. The reason I wouldn't cut the bigger shaft, is it you connect these shafts again, for them to be stable without the rubber that you melt away, seem the shaft is about an inch shorter now to feel stable and not wiggle inside the bigger shaft. For sure it'll work, but I think it'll work better with more meat on the shafts. You don't want to leave any slop in this shaft, it defeats the purpose. As it is, I'm hoping the Square needs the shaft to be about an inch shorter.

 

[HotRodPC]

If the SB shaft isn't at least in need to be 3/4 of an inch shorter or more. I don't think I'd change a thing about the shaft. I'd just suck it up and take the steering box loose, put the shaft between the steering box and column connector and bolt the gear box back on, then snug up my steering shaft bolts.

Now that the shaft is separated into 2 pieces and is very telescopic with ease now, I've taken pics with an orignal unmodified shaft for comparison, with what I'd consider safe lengths of the shaft. I'm really hoping the SB will require the 3/4 inch shorter or more. Reason being, leaving the shaft easily telescoping like this, it can easily slide into itself and collapse smaller in the event of a hard front end collision, rather than stab the driver in the chest or adams apple as the steering column comes back at the driver pinning him against the seat. (Don't ask how I know that can happen, it's not a pretty story). The second pic shows how much room the shaft has to collapse.

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[bucket]

Make sure to pack some wheel bearing grease in there too when you assemble it, it will help keep it from getting sloppy over time.

And yeah, the plastic stuff melts real quick with a real torch outfit. Mine actually caught fire so I pulled the two halves apart and the crap melted off in no time flat.

 

[HotRodPC]

yeah, it caught fire for me too. I think that the was the toxic **** that got me sick. I was sick for 2 hours. I'm fine now though. But if you see those grooves, I think that plastic keeper is in 2 places and rides up the shaft. So you need to heat about an inch higher than the joint too.

 

[HotRodPC]

Make sure to pack some wheel bearing grease in there too when you assemble it, it will help keep it from getting sloppy over time.

And yeah, the plastic stuff melts real quick with a real torch outfit. Mine actually caught fire so I pulled the two halves apart and the crap melted off in no time flat.

I'm thinking what I'm going to do instead of wheel bearing grease, is use RTV silicone. This way after it dries, it won't have tendency to leak out when the underhood temp gets pretty warm, will keep the 2 shafts tighter almost like a glue, but yet not be glued so tight that it won't collapse if it needs too.

 

[HotRodPC]

I just took the shaft outside to the K1500 to match it up as far as length. This is where the shaft will fit the K1500 just as it is right now. As best as I can tell, it's going to need to be 1 5/8 inch shorter than the OEM Jip shaft length, so the smaller shaft goes into the bigger shaft plenty of distance. It still has a tad of rocking back and forth of inside the bigger shaft, but I think RTV silicone will take good care of that and there shouldn't even be a tad of play between the shafts side to side.

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[HotRodPC]

This....

Now looks like.... Ain'*** a purdy sumbish???

NOW... It's ready for install into the 85 K1500 !!!

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[89Suburban]

Do those joints happen to have grease fittings on them?


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[HotRodPC]

Do those joints happen to have grease fittings on them?


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NO, I sorta wish they did. But they are just like little U Joints. I assume since they don't endure the rotation that an actual U Joint takes, it's probably not needed. I have a feeling it's not needle bearings anyway, and probably just a race or a bushing the the shaft spins within. Even these 92 and 96 shafts feel tight and smooth in the U Joint area.

 

[89Suburban]

NO, I sorta wish they did. But they are just like little U Joints. I assume since they don't endure the rotation that an actual U Joint takes, it's probably not needed. I have a feeling it's not needle bearings anyway, and probably just a race or a bushing the the shaft spins within. Even these 92 and 96 shafts feel tight and smooth in the U Joint area.

Yah, wasn't sure by the pics. I wonder if that is another mod that could be added. Like, if they make those joints with a fitting. I guess it really don't need it. Some of the larger trucks have them. And even one on the collapsing part of the shaft, I guess for the cab air rides so it can telescope in and out.


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[crazy4offroad]

This would be a good mod for a body lift, since the steering gets all out of whack. I have been considering a 2" body lift for mine for a little more clearance and if I go for it this will be a must-do mod.

 

[HotRodPC]

Just for those who might be interested. I did mine a little different than Retro's. You can do as you please, but this worked best for me.

The bolt up at the steer column that Retro mentions you have to hold somehow, it's a square keyed shoulder on the bolt. So simply hold it into the shaft, and then can use your ratchet to pull the nut all the way off. That went really smooth and I expected a problem after reading his instruction, then after it was apart I noticed the square shoulder.

Instead of using a torch or BFH to get the existing shaft to collapse, I didn't collapse it. I took the nuts off the rag joints, loosened the 12pt 11mm bolt holding the rag joint onto the splines of the gear box, then pushed the rag joint further onto the gear box splines, and that gave me plenty of room to get the shaft separated from the rag joint and pulled the shaft off the column. Then slid the rag joint off the splines of the gear box. That too went pretty easy.

I put RTV silicone, any color will work since heat isn't an issue, on the smaller shaft to be slid into the larger one before I started the swap. That was no good. When I slid the 2 pieces together, it just peeled the dry rubbery RTV off the shaft. So I recoated it with RTV and slid them together while wet about as far as I was going to need it to slide for install. Installed both ends, tightened both ends, now I'm waiting for the RTV to dry before I take a test drive so that while it's wet, it just doesn't squeeze out up into the shaft or out of the shaft doing no good at all. We'll see how that works out, but I think it's going to be fine, the way the dry RTV felt on the first try.

Old OEM 85 K1500 Shaft, compared to the Jip Upgrade Shaft

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Guys with body lifts could get a shaft from a Jeep Wrangler...They're the same, but about a foot and a half longer so there's plenty to work with.

 

[89Suburban]

Does this give more of a feel of the road? Like a go cart, all metal connections, know what I mean? It's not something that would cause fatigue on long trips is it? Or is it nice and smooth? I would figured some vibrations and bumps would be felt more with this setup.


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[bucket]

Does this give more of a feel of the road? Like a go cart, all metal connections, know what I mean? It's not something that would cause fatigue on long trips is it? Or is it nice and smooth? I would figured some vibrations and bumps would be felt more with this setup.


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It's a positive but smooth feel. If you notice in the pics, the jeep shaft has a vibration damper built into the upper u-joint assembly.