por15 good or bad?

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any of you guys on her ever use this good or bad product?does it last?that would be my cheapest route and fastest was gonna top coat with rust oleum professional series gloss black paint!!
 

Old77

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Por15 is a great product IMO
 

bucket

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It is good stuff, as long as it's used how intended and proper prep is done before application. Some people seem to think you can just slather it on some rusted swiss cheese panel and it will be good as new.
 

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Just keep in mind, POR15 is a RUST CONVERTER product. This means you must have rust to convert. I'd imagine since you're in PA, you do have plenty of rust to convert so it's probably a great product for you.

Some people like to sand blast a frame, then paint it with POR15. NOOOOO !!! That's not what the product is intended for. If you're going to sand blast a frame, then you may as well paint it with a chassis paint for rust prevention, not a rust converter product. Hope that makes sense.
 

bucket

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It will bite into a previous layer of paint or primer if well sanded. But you are right, it won't stay put on clean and bare metal.
 

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It will bite into a previous layer of paint or primer if well sanded. But you are right, it won't stay put on clean and bare metal.

That, and not to mention that POR15 is not safe from the sun and UV from fading. So the POR15 needs painted or cleared over also. JMO, if it's not intended for a rusty situation, I'd go with a good quality rust prevention type chassis paint. It's expensive and it's a good product, but only if used for it's primary purpose... to convert rust. Can be used on frames and sheetmetal. I've seen some really good things done with POR15 so I'm not knocking it at all, just wanting to make sure the OP understands it's primary purpose is clean the loose rust off, then shoot it or brush on the POR15. Don't be going for a showroom stripped down to bare shiney metal, then cover with the POR15 thinking it's rust prevention.
 

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Wrong info. POR 15 is not a rust converter it's in encapsulator. Meaning it seals the surface so no moisture can get in and form more rust. The converter part is the POR 15 metal prep you spray on it and hose off before you do the paint. You can absolutely take it down to Bright bare metal and the POR 15 will stick just fine, but it has to be roughed up with sandpaper, not just media blasted or wire wheeled. They make a top coat that is UV resistant and you have to apply that top coat while the first coat is still tacky or if you wait too long you can rough up the first coat with 320 grit sandpaper and it will stick. If you just paint it over dry base coat it will peel within 2 weeks.
 

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Wrong info. POR 15 is not a rust converter it's in encapsulator. Meaning it seals the surface so no moisture can get in and form more rust. The converter part is the POR 15 metal prep you spray on it and hose off before you do the paint. You can absolutely take it down to Bright bare metal and the POR 15 will stick just fine, but it has to be roughed up with sandpaper, not just media blasted or wire wheeled. They make a top coat that is UV resistant and you have to apply that top coat while the first coat is still tacky or if you wait too long you can rough up the first coat with 320 grit sandpaper and it will stick. If you just paint it over dry base coat it will peel within 2 weeks.

So either I've been informed wrong, or we're talking about 2 different products. You're talking about a metal prep product, and the POR15 right?

I won't swear to anything because after I was told what I was, I decided I didn't need POR15 and never worked with the product at all. I'd just use the Purple metal cleaner stuff and then a good chassis paint. I don't have severe rust to deal with so POR15 for me seemed to be expensive overkill and not necessary. I know that's not the case for everyone, but for me, just not needed.
 

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Eh, many times I have applied POR-15 to clean bare steel that had been hit with 36 grit on the grinder and it had a tendency to peel off. Maybe it stays on well enough if you leave it alone though. I was usually feathering it back to apply primer over the area.

I'm not trying to dog on the stuff, I think it's a very good product. It just isn't perfect for everything.
 

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Got to use the metal prep. Got to Got to
 

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1low4x4

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Top pic of axle is before I wire wheeled it, bottom is after I wire wheeled it and used the metal prep. It primes the surface for the paint.
 

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1low4x4

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Btw it is true that some surface rust helps adhesion. No doubt. Probably best thing to do if you brought something down to bright metal is to let it sit out overnight and develop a little rust and then hit it with the prep.
 

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[yt]OMxCWNUHNoU[/yt]
 

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Bam.
 

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