Picking up my 14bff & D44.

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crazy4offroad

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I think fulltime 4wd trucks with the front end unlocked (or front d-shaft removed) will roll away in park. Or something like that.
:lol:
 

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Those are stock front springs, you can tell by the width, thickness of the leaves, and the wrap style of the ends.

As for the rears, stock replacements often ride a little higher than the originals. All in all, looks like one heck of a deal to me!
 

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You CAN NOT run an NP203 with unlocked hubs unless you've converted it to Part Time, or have it in LOC position. This is why I'm saying, just keep those hubs that are on it for now. Just concentrate on your gear swap for now and keep those NP203 that are on the 3/4 ton for now. That's just my opinion of course. If and when you convert to NP203, then plan on a hub swap too.
 

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I think fulltime 4wd trucks with the front end unlocked (or front d-shaft removed) will roll away in park. Or something like that.
:lol:

yes, that's exactly what will happen and why no need for manual locking hubs. The NP230 work like a differential. If the front axle just spins, since it's the weakest traction, then the truck won't move except to roll away like it didn't have any driveshafts in it.
 

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Alright guys, i just got a chanse last night to clean up the dana a bit and on first inspection it looks very solid and rotor look/feel like new no lip or gouge's. Got me some more chassie paint and sanding disk. I think im going to wait to install these till i get my 4" rough country lift kit, which now i need to decide if i wan the kit with the rear leaf's or since i got this nice set of oem do i just get the blocks? Also, my 14b has the smaller drum on it so do you think the brand new pads and hardware i put in my 12b will fit this 14b?
 

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Alright guys, i just got a chanse last night to clean up the dana a bit and on first inspection it looks very solid and rotor look/feel like new no lip or gouge's. Got me some more chassie paint and sanding disk. I think im going to wait to install these till i get my 4" rough country lift kit, which now i need to decide if i wan the kit with the rear leaf's or since i got this nice set of oem do i just get the blocks? Also, my 14b has the smaller drum on it so do you think the brand new pads and hardware i put in my 12b will fit this 14b?

Sounds like you a got a good plan. This gives you plenty of time to get them cleaned up too.
As far as lift kit, I don't really care for blocks myself either, but being you're just going 4 inch spring lift in the front, you can probably get by with 2, 2 1/2, or 3 in blocks in the back and that isn't so bad. I intend to use 2in blocks with my 4 in front lift springs and it should make the truck sit level. I just don't like it when a truck looks like it's sitting on stilts and uses U bolts that are 2 feet long. :rofl: You won;t have that with 3in blocks or less.

But, I also already had these lift blocks from another rear end I have, so that made my decision easy. What is your cost difference from all springs to springs/blocks kit?? If not but a $100 or so different, then I'd go all springs. If and when I do get the chance to go 6 or 8 inch on one of my projects, it will be all spring lift.
 

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http://www.roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_73-76_4.html
looks like $349.95 for the blocks and..... i guess depending if im going with the 56" or not $549.95 (56") or $499.95 (52").

Yea im rdy to wait now that i found the axles and its now corn harvest on my farm. So this lift kit will get me new bushings, u-bolts, shocks instead of running the old **** and im going to get it anyways down the road so now seems as good of time as any.
 

Kapdin

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Rdy for install. they R so purdy! :smoke2:
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One thing tho, i rly rly had to try to get thos front rims over thos hubs, getting them off is NOT going to be fun..... damn.
 
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HotRodPC

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Had we determined of those were lift springs or not? They just might be 2in lift springs.
 

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i don't think they are :( cus the fronts looked pretty old like stock (i guess could have been lifted a while ago) but thos rears are still 52" not 56". The way that k20 looked it was pretty level so i dunno but i know thos front spring curve up while my stock k10s are flat to negative curve so thos springs and thos 265/75-16's ill have a pretty good lift from stock for now.
 

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Also, can i take a leaf from the old springs and add it to the front and one on the rear? would that help lift too? also im picking up some new shocks tomorrow, any i should look at or specs to look at?
 

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hey gents, i got a problem. my 1/2 ton drive shaft has the smaller yoke on it than my new 14b...i should have bought that drive shaft too....****.
 

crazy4offroad

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Go to NAPA and tell them your conundrum. They will sell you a combination u-joint. 1310 on one side of the yoke, 1350 on the other.
 

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for real? is that weak? i just bot new ones and holders and bolts but i have no problem with that combo. I have no idea wat that other drive shaft would cost either.
 

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