My 454 build

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MikeB

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I haven't done a heck of a lot with big blocks, but a solid roller and 850 DP does not sound like a recipe for max TQ. Depending on the roller specs (and most are fairly radical) I'd think TQ wouldn't be very good below 3000 RPM. And a DP isn't great in a heavy vehicle unless you can keep your foot out of the secondaries until the revs build. Then again, if your truck has 4.88 gears...:)
 

rumblebox

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I haven't done a heck of a lot with big blocks, but a solid roller and 850 DP does not sound like a recipe for max TQ. Depending on the roller specs (and most are fairly radical) I'd think TQ wouldn't be very good below 3000 RPM. And a DP isn't great in a heavy vehicle unless you can keep your foot out of the secondaries until the revs build. Then again, if your truck has 4.88 gears...:)
It has annular boosters, so it's supposed to act more like a 750 down low. I'm setting the secondaries to open later also.

The cam will be custom and not very radical. Might go hydraulic roller, but the solid roller should make more power everywhere compared to hydraulic, no?

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MikeB

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The cam will be custom and not very radical. Might go hydraulic roller, but the solid roller should make more power everywhere compared to hydraulic, no?

Well, I know a flat tappet solid cam has (or used to have) more area under the curve than a hydraulic cam with the same duration, but I'm not sure if that applies to rollers. Best to discuss with someone like Mike Jones at Jones Cam Designs, or over on speedtalk.com.
 

Jrgunn5150

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I haven't done a heck of a lot with big blocks, but a solid roller and 850 DP does not sound like a recipe for max TQ. Depending on the roller specs (and most are fairly radical) I'd think TQ wouldn't be very good below 3000 RPM. And a DP isn't great in a heavy vehicle unless you can keep your foot out of the secondaries until the revs build. Then again, if your truck has 4.88 gears...:)

I'm of a differing opinion, or school of thought I guess.

I would say, that if it makes 600 HP at 6,000, it probably isn't boring to drive down low lol.
 

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I'm interested to see where this goes! Just out of curiosity, are you not worried about throwing a lot of torque at a 2-bolt main? I also have a 2-bolt main 454, and have been thinking of things I could do to pull more power out of it (one day). But in the back of my mind I keep thinking its a 2-bolt main, how much can I throw at it before I run into a bigger problem? I don't know the answer to this question, but am very interested to see the results of your build! Subscribed
 

87scotty

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There is many two bolt main builds I think the main reason theses motors go boom is lack of maintenece! If it was a 1000lbs of toourque motor than sure I'd go for the 4 bolt but 500 its just healthy
 

87scotty

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At least that's what I've always read a 350 you'd want a 4 bolt for that kinda power but I don't know anyone who's seen a main failure normally rods go boom if you were spraying it or boost in that may be another story
 

Jrgunn5150

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I've seen 2 bolt motor's run 10's, small and big block. I wouldn't lose a second of sleep over how many bolts are holding my crankshaft in on anything I'm likely to build.

People just like to say 4 bolt main, and, it's from a Vette, or a cop car, 3/4 race cam, RV cam... Just stuff people think sounds clever lol.
 

1973c10

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I think If you build a good bottom end a
2 bolt will exceed your expectations have it balance
put a set of main studs in
I think the rods are the weak link
get as good of set as you can afford and run it
 

HotRodPC

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Have you considered building it as a 489/496 ("max torque everywhere")?

Yes. I may forego the headwork and just leave the stock valves in favor of a 4.25 crank.

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Yep, I second this motion. Money well spent to get that stroker crank. That'll give you an almost square bore x stroke ratio, not to mention, I see the conversation about domes and head CC. This will raise that compression up too so it'll be like Free power on top of the bigger cubes.
 

HotRodPC

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I'm interested to see where this goes! Just out of curiosity, are you not worried about throwing a lot of torque at a 2-bolt main? I also have a 2-bolt main 454, and have been thinking of things I could do to pull more power out of it (one day). But in the back of my mind I keep thinking its a 2-bolt main, how much can I throw at it before I run into a bigger problem? I don't know the answer to this question, but am very interested to see the results of your build! Subscribed

2 bolt main will do just fine for this build and even more. Everyone makes a huge issue of 2 and 4 bolt main. Here is what's way more important than 2 or 4 bolt main. BALANCING !!! You can even rattle a 4 bolt main loose if it's not balanced right, but 2 bolts hold up to alot more abuse than most realize. I've spun 350' making power to 7000 rpm and even out to 7500 rpm without problems w/ 2 bolt main and cast crank. Now, that's not a big block but still, point is Balance a motor right, lighten the rotating assembly where you can and it'll hold up.

Personally, I prefer 2 bolt block anyway. In the event I think I'm building something that needs 4 bolt, then I'd much rather go with Splayed mains and angle bolts. You can't do that on a 4 bolt block because it's already been drilled straight down and taken meat away where the angled bolts need to be machined. I also think a main cap girdle has more to offer than 4 bolt mains. For those who aren't aware of what a girdle is... It looks similar to a ladder and lays across all of your main caps and is bolted down and torqued with the mains. This keeps all the mains standing up straight and your center mains aren't able to walk or rock, not to mention more strength because now your main caps are thicker.

At any rate, balance it right, even though big blocks have a heavy mass to rotate, they are bigger mains and can handle it even with a cast crank.
 

rumblebox

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2 bolt main will do just fine for this build and even more. Everyone makes a huge issue of 2 and 4 bolt main. Here is what's way more important than 2 or 4 bolt main. BALANCING !!! You can even rattle a 4 bolt main loose if it's not balanced right, but 2 bolts hold up to alot more abuse than most realize. I've spun 350' making power to 7000 rpm and even out to 7500 rpm without problems w/ 2 bolt main and cast crank. Now, that's not a big block but still, point is Balance a motor right, lighten the rotating assembly where you can and it'll hold up.

Personally, I prefer 2 bolt block anyway. In the event I think I'm building something that needs 4 bolt, then I'd much rather go with Splayed mains and angle bolts. You can't do that on a 4 bolt block because it's already been drilled straight down and taken meat away where the angled bolts need to be machined. I also think a main cap girdle has more to offer than 4 bolt mains. For those who aren't aware of what a girdle is... It looks similar to a ladder and lays across all of your main caps and is bolted down and torqued with the mains. This keeps all the mains standing up straight and your center mains aren't able to walk or rock, not to mention more strength because now your main caps are thicker.

At any rate, balance it right, even though big blocks have a heavy mass to rotate, they are bigger mains and can handle it even with a cast crank.
Definitely balancing it.

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kickdeez

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Awesome info guys. My motor rebuilding experience has been limited to top-end work. I have found myself wanting a little more out of this big hunk of metal and moving parts under the hood. Good to know that it will take way more than I would probably ever throw at it.
@rumblebox sorry for the thread derail. Carry on guys!
 

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