Metal pieces in oil pan id

[RustyBuckets]

Hey guys i dropped my oil pan today to replace the gasket and found these at the bottom. Any idea what they are from?

 

[HotRodPC]

hmmm, I'm wanting to say they look like lifter plunger retainers. A pic with a penny or something for a size comparison might help.

 

[HotRodPC]

See the wire spring clip retainers in the top of the lifter that holds the plunger in place?

So long as your rocker arms don't get loose and the pushrod keeps tension on the lifter plunger, you should be OK, but be prepared, when you do pull your rocker arms and push rods, those lifters are going to be coming apart and spitting their plungers and plunger sping out of the lifter bore.

 

[RustyBuckets]

Pulling it apart now. So the lifters will spring off in a way? What should i be prepared for.

 

[HotRodPC]

It's not high spring tension, just that as you pull the pushrod out, the plunger is likely to follow. Just do one and ease the plunger up with the pushrod and then you'd have an idea of what you're dealing with.

 

[RustyBuckets]

Indeed it was my lifters, I've pulled the intake and inspected them. I found atlas 3 failed lifters so its time to buy new ones again. Im not sure what caused the failure. Could it be over tightening the rockers?

 

[HotRodPC]

I'm not really sure. Maybe a defective batch or brand of lifters? Very high rpms and floating valves and push rods bouncing on the lifters maybe? What type of rpm do you turn? Do you do it very often and to the point you float the valves? Maybe your cam is big enough you need double springs?

 

[HotRodPC]

The good thing is, so long as the valves were adjusted properly or a hair to tight, that kept the lifter plungers in the lifter bores so no harm was done to the engine whatsoever. New set of lifters and you're good as new again.

 

[74 Shortbed]

I've seen this several times with hydraulic lifters, and it was from not enough preload on the lifters and the plunger ends up beating the retainers out.

 

[Camar068]

Great info, thx guys.

 

[HotRodPC]

I've seen this several times with hydraulic lifters, and it was from not enough preload on the lifters and the plunger ends up beating the retainers out.

That makes sense. So what you're saying the valves were adjusted a little loose.

I've always adjusted hydraulic lifters with the engine running. Back them off till they clatter. Tighten til the clatter stops, then go 1/2 turn past that. Books will always say 1 full turn after clatter stops. I've just opted to not go a full turn. To tight and you tend to put added pressure on your cam lobes and cause premature cam wear. Obviously, to loose this can happen. Knock on wood, I've never had this problem with 1/2 tun past clatter stop.

 

[74 Shortbed]

That makes sense. So what you're saying the valves were adjusted a little loose.

I've always adjusted hydraulic lifters with the engine running. Back them off till they clatter. Tighten til the clatter stops, then go 1/2 turn past that. Books will always say 1 full turn after clatter stops. I've just opted to not go a full turn. To tight and you tend to put added pressure on your cam lobes and cause premature cam wear. Obviously, to loose this can happen. Knock on wood, I've never had this problem with 1/2 tun past clatter stop.

Adjusted loose just enough so they don't clatter, or reused factory nuts backed off over time(I hate them things). I never adjust them running E/O, I/C only, I never go more than 1/2 turn no need to and with good springs a 1/4 turn will give you a little more rpm, but general use 1/2 turn is plenty safe, just don't want that plunger to hit the retainer.

 

[1973c10]

Adjusted loose just enough so they don't clatter, or reused factory nuts backed off over time(I hate them things). I never adjust them running E/O, I/C only, I never go more than 1/2 turn no need to and with good springs a 1/4 turn will give you a little more rpm, but general use 1/2 turn is plenty safe, just don't want that plunger to hit the retainer.

I have old GM shop manuals that have you adjusted hydraulic lifters
with the engine running back them off till they tick then tighten til
the tick stops then go 1/2 turn

 

[Georgeb]

I have done it both ways with good results. The non-running method is
My preference during engine assembly.

 

[74 Shortbed]

I have old GM shop manuals that have you adjusted hydraulic lifters
with the engine running back them off till they tick then tighten til
the tick stops then go 1/2 turn

Yep, OLD ones,lol, that's the way I learned too wayyyy back in the day, then I talked to racers and cam MFG's and that was the end of that method,lol..