How to solve an exhuast backfire?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Polyphemus287

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
35
Reaction score
0
Location
Richmond, VA
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
4.1
Hi all

This is my first post on the forums, but I have been a longtime unregistered lurker. Recently, I acquired a 1983 c10 with the 4.1 six cylinder. The engine would appear to be completely stock, except for perhaps a lack of vacuum lines.

The problem: The trucks is having is a small backfire from the exhaust. It idles fine, but if the engine is given some throttle under load, or without load it I get small pop upon lifting from the gas pedal.

This problem started after I gave the truck a tune up and fixed a couple of oil leaks which included:
Plugs (gaped properly)
new dist. cap
new rotor
fuel filter
air filter
oil change
new valve cover gasket
new fuel pump & line
I replaced some of the old remaining vacuum lines with new hose, and replaced some of the old vacuum lines running to the carburetor that had been plugged with bolts, with new rubber plugs.

Prior to the tune up the engine did not run as smooth, as it does now. The engine shakes less etc, than it did prior to my tune up. Prior to the tune up I drove it for an hour, with no backfire or any other issue than a shake at idle. It was a little short of power in my opinion, but this could just be because of its age.

Strangely, the old plugs that were removed had a white tint to them. This leads me to believe that the truck was running lean prior to the tune up. To my understanding a backfire out of the exhaust is caused by unburnt fuel flowing through the exhaust and igniting. My initial impression is that my tune up somehow resulted in the engine gaining more fuel flow than before.

At this point, I am stumped. Perhaps misguidedly, I took a can carb cleaner and tried to find vacuum leaks but could not find any. I am not sure where my problem lies, but my initial impression is that it has something to do with the carburetor or the engine's timing.

Any ideas or input would be greatly appreciated
 

smoothandlow84

I'd rather be draggin' frame
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Posts
2,121
Reaction score
784
Location
Arizona
First Name
Steve
Truck Year
1984 Frame...87 motor and 700r trans
Truck Model
1500 r10 pavement scraper
Engine Size
350 TBI
Are you sure that the firing order is correct, since you replaced the plugs? Just a thought......because I had two wires crossed and it caused a backfire. Dumb mistake on my behalf...but it happens.
 

350runner

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2013
Posts
2,858
Reaction score
224
Location
tx
First Name
Ceasar
Truck Year
82
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
A pop on deceleration usually means the engine is running lean. Hints the white plugs. Check for vacuum leaks. If none are found try having the carb rebuilt or jetted to provide the correct a/f fuel mix. Or out could just be mixed up plug wires.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

Polyphemus287

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
35
Reaction score
0
Location
Richmond, VA
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
4.1
Smoothandlow,

I have not checked the firing order for the engine yet, but given how it idles I am pretty sure it is correct. When replacing the plugs I did them one at a time to prevent myself from messing up the firing order. I will double check it first thing tomorrow though. Thanks for the reply
 

Polyphemus287

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
35
Reaction score
0
Location
Richmond, VA
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
4.1
350runner,

I sprayed carb cleaner around all the vacuum lines, carburetor, and intake manifold without any change in engine rpm. Admittedly, It was almost impossible to check for leaks on the bottom of the manifold, but I sprayed the hell out of it with no change.

As far as having the carb rebuilt, is there any way to check it for proper operation? I just got a quote from a local napa for a rebuilt carb @ 489 dollars and rebuild kit for 35. I would try to rebuilt it, but man from my alldata schematic it looks extremely complicated. I know it has the e2se 2 barrel on it, which to my understanding one cannot adjust the air fuel ratio.

Would it be easier to fix this situation with an aftermarket carburetor with adjustable mixture screws?

Thanks for help
 

350runner

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2013
Posts
2,858
Reaction score
224
Location
tx
First Name
Ceasar
Truck Year
82
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
Before you start digging into the carb trace your steps. Ignition, what could have gone wrong? Bad new plugs? Old plug wires finally gone bad?

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

Georgeb

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Posts
3,259
Reaction score
214
Location
Wisconsin
First Name
George
Truck Year
2003
Truck Model
K10 Burb Z71
Engine Size
5.3
Before you start digging into the carb trace your steps. Ignition, what could have gone wrong? Bad new plugs? Old plug wires finally gone bad?

Sent from the dust in front of you!

2X^
 

87scotty

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2015
Posts
1,074
Reaction score
282
Location
Central il
First Name
Andrew
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
5.7 for now
Might be worth giving the timing a check sounds like you may have fixed a vac leak causing your white plugs always do the easy checks before replacing parts
 

Polyphemus287

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
35
Reaction score
0
Location
Richmond, VA
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
4.1
Thanks to all for input,

This morning I retraced my steps.

Here are my results:
Firing order is correct
New plugs are in good shape, gapped correctly
Both dist cap and rotor are installed correctly with no visible cracks etc.

I sprayed almost an entire can of carb cleaner all over the engine including vacuum lines, carb gaskets, intake manifold etc. Never even got the slightest change in engines rpm. The underside of the manifold on this six cylinder is a pain to spray into, but I did the best I could.

I am still stumped by the whole thing.

87scotty,

I do not have a timing light to check the engine timing, but I can pick one up if need be. Is it possible to diagnose it as a timing issue by loosening the distributor and moving it slightly to see if the condition gets better or worse?
 

350runner

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2013
Posts
2,858
Reaction score
224
Location
tx
First Name
Ceasar
Truck Year
82
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
If you have or can borrow a multi meter you can ohm out the spark plug wires.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

Polyphemus287

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
35
Reaction score
0
Location
Richmond, VA
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
4.1
350runner,

I forgot to mention in my original post that the spark plug wires are new as well. My apologies for that. However, I suppose it is possible for them to be bad out of the box. I do have a multimeter, but I am not sure it reads ohms. I will check them anyways and report back
 

87scotty

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2015
Posts
1,074
Reaction score
282
Location
Central il
First Name
Andrew
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
5.7 for now
Yes you can see by turning the distributor but your definetly going to want to get it timed right
 

Polyphemus287

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
35
Reaction score
0
Location
Richmond, VA
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
4.1
350runner,

I tested the plug wires, with the readings ranging between 1.5-2.1 ohms. I compared this to an old set of wires which had readings ranging from 6-9 ohms. This leads me to believe the plug wires are in good shape, but I could be wrong. Any input on that would be helpful.

87scotty,

I think I will make a mark on the distributor before making any adjustments just so I can resort to back to a baseline incase things go afoul.

My only question is which way retards the timing and which is advancing the timing?
 

87scotty

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2015
Posts
1,074
Reaction score
282
Location
Central il
First Name
Andrew
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
5.7 for now
Counter clock advances I believe but your not gonna hurt anything turn in one way or another! Whatever speeds it up is advancing and what slows it down retards I'd try advancing it a lil see if it fixes it timing may have been set with a vac leak and that'd through it off
 
Last edited:

350runner

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2013
Posts
2,858
Reaction score
224
Location
tx
First Name
Ceasar
Truck Year
82
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
Those plug wires are good. The lower the ohms the better. With your new plug wires this lean issue is more profound. Try retarding the timing and see what happens. Also what octane gas are you running. Might be a good time to switch to the highest available. It's worth a try.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
42,304
Posts
913,363
Members
33,800
Latest member
504SquareBody
Top