Freeze 12?

[Blackdog3]

Does anyone have experience with using freeze 12. I want to get the AC up and running so maybe i can take this bad boy on some trips. As for now she still sits in the barn.....

Chris

 

[davbell22602]

I think you need a license to buy freeze 12/r12. I'd convert it to the R134a.

 

[Blackdog3]

How do you convert it to the new stuff?

 

[davbell22602]

How do you convert it to the new stuff?

I'm not real sure how its done. I do know you have to completely flush the R12 out of the compressor, lines, etc.

 

[crazy4offroad]

I think you just get a seal kit that is able to seal better for R134a, the old seals cant take it for whatever reason. I'm sure there's more and hopefully someone else will chime in with details but far as I know it's just seals/o-rings.

 

[bucket]

We're on a very slippery slope here fellas, this is a very controversial subject. There is an entire list of things that are "required" to be changed to make the switch to 134. Every AC class that I have ever been to (whether it's just for informational purposes or for certification) has been put on by one of the larger parts companies. The lists of items to be replaced are basically just ads for the company that sells the parts. I'll just stop there.

Between you, me, and the fence post... if the system is empty, just ad on the new style fittings, charge the system, and add in a florescent dye. However, I highly recommend buying/borrowing a vacuum pump to evacuate the system before recharging. If the charge ever leaks out, you should be able to find the source of the leak with a florescent light (because of the dye you added).

If you end up needing to replace something major, like the compressor, then you can go ahead and change stuff like the orifice tube, accumulator and condenser at that time.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

My '91 Blazer was empty when I got it.

I replaced the lines (not needed for retrofit, mine were fcuked.), compressor, o-rings, orifice tube (it's like 99 cents, no reason not to go ahead and replace it), replaced the fittings and charged it up with oil and R134a, THAT'S IT...Been going strong for 2 years now. I added 1/4 can this year and my vents put out around 41* on a 99* day.

 

[wagonman]

I agree with Bucket on the issue of the larger parts cos and also on just winging it.The diff between r12 and r134 is the 143 is a smaller molocule gas that will leak easier,so seals designed for 134 are RECOMENDED not Manditory.I would pull the compressor drain the old oil and fill to spec with PAG oil.Crack the lines to the evaporator and condensor and use shop air to blow the old oil out then add pag to spec.Suck it down with a vaccum pump and charge it.Nappa makes a kit with all the retro fittings seals ect for around 60$.If the system looks in good shape prior to retrofit you should be good to go.The issue with adding a secondary high pressure cutout sw seems like over kill to me unless you live in Death Valley,Phoenix Vegas 110 in summer heat.The CCOT system on our rigs is a simple system.PM me if you need more info.... Oh yeah Replace the orifice tube per Bucket advice Its a good indicator of system integrity,any crud on it and the compressor is done.This should be the first thing to look at.If its NG plan on spending some $$..

 

[89Suburban]

A R-34A converted AC system never runs as good as the original R-12 setup IMO.

 

[bunkvegas]

Just my 2 cents but I wouldn't be using air from your compressor to blow out the existing oil. If it is not evacuated properly it could create acid in the system and then you are really hosed. Nitrogen is what is recommended when flushing a system, testing it for leaks and purging. Without vaccuming a system properly you can cause fluttering which basically means your pressure can vary in a rapid pace when it is not supposed to. This will prevent your system from working properly.

If you do use freeze 12 which I believe is sold over the counter make sure to follow the instructions because I believe you only do a certain percentage of the existing lb ratio. We used freeze 12 in one of our tractors until we traded it in. I'll be sticking with r-12 simply because I have it and I don't want to convert over.

 

[davbell22602]

If you do use freeze 12 which I believe is sold over the counter make sure to follow the instructions because I believe you only do a certain percentage of the existing lb ratio. We used freeze 12 in one of our tractors until we traded it in. I'll be sticking with r-12 simply because I have it and I don't want to convert over.

You have to be licensed to purchase R12.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_can_you_get_R12_freon

 

[crazy4offroad]

Dave, as much info as he just gave I think it's safe to say he IS licensed.

 

[bunkvegas]

My bad I should have added that in that yes you do have to be licensed to buy R-12 which is expensive because they no longer "make" it. I meant freeze 12 is sold over the counter. Yes I am licensed.

 

[davbell22602]

My bad I should have added that in that yes you do have to be licensed to buy R-12 which is expensive because they no longer "make" it. I meant freeze 12 is sold over the counter. Yes I am licensed.

So can you use the freeze 12 in a R12 system?

 

[Blackdog3]

So it sounds like I need to get the system sucked dry then replace with R134 fittings and then juice it up? Where do they sell freeze 12 at? IF that is the easier route and i can buy with no licesne then hell i will do that!

Chris