Don't know why my brakes don't work.

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HotRodPC

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So is this the same symptoms that made you check into the rear brakes? Meaning no change at all even after changing the rear brakes, or did you have pedal before you started the rear brakes? It's kinda sounding like you have an internal leak in the MC and it may need replaced.
 

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same before and after the rear. When i was shifing the tranny after the flush i saw i had absolutly no rear brakes so i opened them up did that and as far as the pedal its the same.
 

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One thing I really can't stand is working on brake systems.
 

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also got sucked into getting this..... the consept sounded great except the fact that your bleeder is cracked open and can still suck air by the threads........so you don't accomplish anything lol. unless im wrong, but the instructions say turn bleeder out one turn and on my new pistons i put in the bleeders were spotless and once cracked very loose threads.
 

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HotRodPC

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I hate those things. Also Vac pumps for bleeding. I can do it, but I still feel you get a better job with the old fashioned pump it and hold it method.

Since this problem just happened out of the blue, and isn't related to the back brakes then, I'm gonna suggest the MC needs replaced. It's internals are wore out, and when you push the pedal, the rubber is moving, but it's allowing the brake fluid to jump over the rubber and piston instead of applying pressure. It appears brand new is $39 with limited lifetime warranty, and reman is $15 with limited lifetime. I'd go the New one, but if funds are an issue right now, then go with the reman. Be sure to bench bleed it before you install it.
 

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yea i saw the price ima just get a new one, and i cant rly say if it just happened out of the blue or wat since i literaly just pulled it out of the weeds and has done it since ive owned it (two weeks). But im thinking my drums are to far gone :( and thos are $60+ a piece and on top of that havent even opened the front brakes up yet. but o well at least ill know wat is good and has been done.
 

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wow wat a little wax can do.
 

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HotRodPC

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IF you have to, you can use the same drums for awhile, but I'd make it short as possible. And when you have have the cash or find some cheap used ones, you might have to replace the pads again if you can't sand them smooth after the drum replacement. More importantly, is getting you some brake pedal. As long as long as the wheel cylinders aren't leaking now, just do what you gotta do. Also, did you by chance replace the axle seals. Hard to tell in the pic, but that could have also been gear oil from the axle tubes.
 

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wow wat a little wax can do.

Seems to me that old red faded squares revive well with some elbow grease and junk out of a bottle.
 

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No i did not replace the axle seals, how bad of a job is that on these?
 

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No i did not replace the axle seals, how bad of a job is that on these?

It does entail removing the rear end cover to drop the C clips that hold the axles in place. Once the axles are out, it's fairly easy. The job is easy, just time consuming.
 

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Ok so tonight i pulled the front calipers off and the pads had good life left so i gave it all the "Mr. Clean" touch. Then pulled the caps off the hubs and pulled off the c-clip and removed that first gear and the following spring, then also gave the inside the "Mr. Clean" along with the gear and spring then packed a fair amount of new grease in there and reassembled it all. Can i put to much grease in there? i mean i didnt pack it but put more than came out.

Also i then started on my brake bleed again, and after spending an hr and half and my GF's leg gave out along with her attention span i still have no pressure and the light is still on. I have fluid with no air on all brakes but just spills out with no pressure. The master cylinder for sure??
 

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Ohhh, you haven't replaced the MC yet??? I've thought MC all along since you told me it just happened and just pulled the rear brakes for inspection. I'd be surprised to find out it wasn't the MC if it's not.

And there is only 1 acceptable way to wear out the girlfriends legs, and that isn't it buddy !!! :hump:
 

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LOL yea i hear ya :) . I havn't replaced it yet cus i was just waiting to make sure i didn't need any thing for the front and a little more time to decided if i should just buy the new drums....
 

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I hate bleeding brakes until I got one of these,

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Universal-Bleeder-Kit-0250_p_136.html

It pushes the fluid thru the master to the wheels. Just put the adapter on top of the master and pressure it to 10 lbs and wait a few min. If the pressure holds then release the pressure and fill with fluid and re pressure and go to each wheel and bleed. No worries about a little leaking out of the bleed screw because it pushing not sucking. Mine has a plastic 1105 adapter and that was the biggest problem getting it to seal to our masters. The one in the link has the aluminum 1105 so should be a lot better. This will do clutches and just about anything that needs to be bled that the adapters will fit.

It will also show you if you have any leaks because it puts the whole system under pressure. It will not show you if the Master is bad.
 

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