Davbell22602 first Electolysis

[davbell22602]

I'm gonna try the electolysis for the first on my 390 4bbl intake. I havent decided if I wanna leave the rusty oil filler cap or take it off and buy new. I might just leave it to see happens with it in cleaning it. This intake is off of a 1964 Thunderbird 390.

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[89Suburban]

Holy ****, good candidate part, lol!!!

 

[Old77]

That thurrr is a bit rusty, jr!!

 

[davbell22602]

Its cooking right now. If this doesnt work then I'll see what the cost would be at shop to to do it so I can paint it.

 

[oneluckypops]

Its cooking right now. If this doesnt work then I'll see what the cost would be at shop to to do it so I can paint it.

WEll what the hell wheres the progress pictures with the intake in the witches brew?

 

[davbell22602]

Here's after 1 hour.

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Just had lawnmower emergency. Broken idler pulley on mower deck. Be back later.

 

[89Suburban]

How many amps is that thing pulling hoss?

 

[davbell22602]

How many amps is that thing pulling hoss?

10/2/50 charger and its set on 50.

 

[Swims350]

that rebar you using instead of copper wire? I like the tank you are using, let's it lay flat so less crap to put in it.

 

[89Suburban]

Any frothing yet?

 

[HotRodPC]

I think you should have rinsed off all that sand and dirt first. I figured that out my last go round. I think you only need about half of that water. You just have to cover the item you're cleaning and maybe a couple more inches. More water, means more diluted I'd think. But, it might be a good thing too. So it being an experimental process, leave it run with all that water and lets see how it does. If all your are using is that piece of rebar for an electrode, you're gonna need to clean it often, and slows the process. Its also going to clean closer to the electrode better than the other end. Great candidate for the process though. I am sure that will come clean, just gonna take awhile the way you have it set up. So you don't kill your charger, I think I'd bring it down to 10amp. I just wouldn't use my highest setting for this. I used 40amp last time, but it was a 40/160 charger/starter, so I figured the windings in the charger could handle the 40amp without a problem. And my other charger 2/10/50 had an internal breaker that kept blowing at 50amp, which told me, it was overheating. If yours don't have a internal breaker, you just might be overheating it. I'd bring it down to 10amp if were me. I had good results on that block at 10amp.

 

[HotRodPC]

HEY DAVE, are you sure that rebar isn't touching that manifold?? It looks like they are touching. You can't do that. The electrode MUST NOT touch the item you're cleaning. If you are doing that, then its grounding out the process and the water is not becoming elecrolyte and it will not clean. If its working, you should almost immediatley see the water start to move a bit and some tiny bubbles dancing on top of the water. Not alot but enough to let you know its working.

 

[89Suburban]

 

[skysurfer]

I have one of those small chargers and they only put out 50 amps when you're trying to start an engine. Not sure if it will recognize the load with electrolysis and kick into 50 amp mode.

 

[HotRodPC]

I think I see what he is doing here, and if he's doing wht I think he is, he's got it backwards. Doesn't it look like that red positive lead rebar is touching the intake??? Then he has black negative going to another piece of rebar, and maybe that one is not touching and is his electrode??? Positive goes to the elecrode, negative goes to the part being cleaned.
If it were me, I'd find my me a 2-3 inch bolt that will the carb stud threads. I'd tighten down into the carb stud threads with a jamb nut to make sure its tight, then I'd clamp my negative there on that bolt just out of the water. Then the positive to piece of iron or steel. Prefferably, a foot to foot and half of channel iron and lay it long ways beside the intake. I think that would produce good quicker results. But, its all exeperimental, none of us have perfected it.. YET.