Cant get my engine to run. Please help!

[Pender1]

My K5 has an aftermarket 350 in it that I'm guessing was put in sometime in the 90's, and an edlebrock carb. It was running pretty good when I bought it, but it very shortly blew a head gasket. I replaced it and put the engine back together. This is where the trouble started.

To get it to run I'm at 20ish degrees btc which is giving me about 5" Hg. Turning the idle screws seems to have little to no effect on rpm or vacuum. I can turn both screws all the way in and it keeps running. The engine lugs and dies if I advance my timing any closer to tdc than about 15 degrees btc. I have searched for vacuum leaks and can't find one. I have verified timing order. I have cleaned my carb. I have a new battery and a new starter (that has suddenly started sticking). I can get it to idle smooth, but as soon as I put it in gear, it drops rpm and dies.

Please, I'm begging for someone to tell me what I'm missing. I've done everything I know to do.

 

[foamypirate]

Have you verified that you have the rotor pointing to #1 spark plug post when cylinder 1 is at TDC? You could be off a tooth on the dizzy, possibly.

 

[Pender1]

Have you verified that you have the rotor pointing to #1 spark plug post when cylinder 1 is at TDC? You could be off a tooth on the dizzy, possibly.

Yes, I've completely redone my timing a couple of times.

I don't see where being off 1 tooth would matter much, there's that much adjustment in twisting the housing. Or am I wrong?

 

[Georgeb]

Only 5" of vacuum at idle? Valves adjusted properly?

 

[Camar068]

yeh the 5" freaked me out to

http://www.batauto.com/threads/vacuum-check.14064/

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Pender1]

Only 5" of vacuum at idle? Valves adjusted properly?

As far as I can tell, yes.

yeh the 5" freaked me out to

http://www.batauto.com/threads/vacuum-check.14064/

You must be registered for see images attach

Mine is constantly bouncing between 4 and 6. If I have an intake leak I can't find it. I just redid the intake gasket thinking I had screwed up installing it.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I'm guessing you sprayed around the whole thing with starter fluid or similar? Could it be possible your gasket job was fine, but the intake is warped or something, and it can't seal properly? I don't know. That reading is alarmingly low regardless of the cause.

 

[Pender1]

I used a small propane bottle. It's very possible my manifold is just ****. I'm trying not to spend any more money on this engine because I'm planning on dropping a new one in soon, I just don't have the $$$ for it yet, so I'm trying to get by. If I could limp this one through the summer I'd be happy.

 

[Rusty Nail]

If I could limp this one through the summer I'd be happy.

Hay! You should join my club!

 

[Pender1]

Hay! You should join my club!

Do you have working, driving trucks there? If so, I'm in!

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I used a small propane bottle. It's very possible my manifold is just ****. I'm trying not to spend any more money on this engine because I'm planning on dropping a new one in soon, I just don't have the $$$ for it yet, so I'm trying to get by. If I could limp this one through the summer I'd be happy.

If there's something wrong, you could probably pick up or order a stocker manifold for $40-$80. Maybe less if you find the right deal.

 

[Oldrider]

To make sure we understand, you have pulled the plugs and verified TDC for the #1 piston and set the distributor so that cyl. should get fire?

 

[Pender1]

To make sure we understand, you have pulled the plugs and verified TDC for the #1 piston and set the distributor so that cyl. should get fire?

Yes.

 

[Handy Andy]

what gets me is that you said you turned both fuel/air screws all the way in and it stays running. It should die if you do this. If this is the case then I would check to make sure you don't have too much fuel pressure. If it is overpowering the needle/seat and the float it could be flooding you out and putting a load on it when u put it in gear could be just enuough to shut it down.

Are you working on it inside a garage? If so when you run it at idle does it make the garage almost unbearable to be in cuz of the fumes from running rich?

When you say you can get it to idle smooth, what rpms are you shooting for?

What kind of carb is on it? This next question may sound dumb, and is not meant as an insult, but are you sure your hooked up to the right vacuum port?

 

[Pender1]

what gets me is that you said you turned both fuel/air screws all the way in and it stays running. It should die if you do this. If this is the case then I would check to make sure you don't have too much fuel pressure. If it is overpowering the needle/seat and the float it could be flooding you out and putting a load on it when u put it in gear could be just enuough to shut it down.

Are you working on it inside a garage? If so when you run it at idle does it make the garage almost unbearable to be in cuz of the fumes from running rich?

When you say you can get it to idle smooth, what rpms are you shooting for?

What kind of carb is on it? This next question may sound dumb, and is not meant as an insult, but are you sure your hooked up to the right vacuum port?

I'm outside in my driveway unfortunately, my garage is too full of **** to fit the truck. It's possible that I'm running too much fuel pressure, but this is the same carb that was on it before I touched it and it ran then.

I'm aiming for 800-850 rpm in park, but my tach is kinda small so I don't have the best resolution on the needle.

It's an edlebrock carb and I'm hooking up to the manifold vacuum port (the one on the right when you're looking at the front of the carb.