C20 Upper Control Arm Shaft Studs

[Old77]

What made not just do the work yourself? Other than getting it aligned you should be able to do it in your driveway

 

[HotRodPC]

What made not just do the work yourself? Other than getting it aligned you should be able to do it in your driveway

I don't know if my welding rod is to old or what, but I couldn't get anything to stick. It puddles good, but ran off, and what didn't, came off with a slight tap. I thought I had it pretty clean etc, but didn't seem to work for me. I don't trust my welding skills much anyway. If they can get some tack welds on the studs, then I won't have to grind frame rivets to replace that peice that holds the studs.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Might have your heat too high, and always start from the bottom and stitch upwards instead of down.

 

[HotRodPC]

Might have your heat too high, and always start from the bottom and stitch upwards instead of down.

I raised the heat just a little at a time until the rod quit sticking. Does welding rod actually go bad? The rod is probably 16 years old.

 

[crazy4offroad]

No, the 70xx low hydrogen rod can draw moisture and require baking to drive the moisure out, if your 60xx rod is sticking too much you might try baking it at about 250 for a half hour on a flat pan with foil so the rods can be spread out. Also just try to move the rod faster, keep the arc low, and watch the puddle. It's hard to watch the arc, watch the puddle and get your movement right all at the same time.

 

[HotRodPC]

So everyone remembers this problem with 84 C20. The problem with the upper A arm studs and not being able to loosen or tighten the bolts to add shims for alignment.

[yt]8jPEbt6PgB4[/yt]
[yt]J0_ETUbgojk[/yt]

The Thread.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=925


This is really the big hold up on me working on this truck. Great truck other than getting this issue handled. I just got back from Home Depot and bought some NEW 6013 stick welding rod. Gonna give this a try again. I'd love to get it this time. It would sure give me some motivation to get busy on this one. I've been driving it again lately since the K1500 must have lost the seal between the trans and tcase. All my trans fluid is draining into the Tcase then out the overflow I guess, and a leak in the Tcase. So I'm having to add a quart week to the trans. I think I'm ready to install that 700r4 out of that Burb that the kid at the shop parted out and gave me all those good axles, Tcases and transmissions, so I'm not concerned about fixing that leak on the K1500 right now. Gonna concentrate on the 84 C20 right now since the windows roll up and down, the cruise control works and I might even get the AC serviced since its all complete, installed and the blower motor works. Wish me luck. Going to try my hand at welding those studs again. I'll be rocking with updates if I get this done !!!

 

[HotRodPC]

Well, so much for that ****. No luck. New Rod wasn't the issue. I can't seem to get a puddle to stick. All I want is a ****** tack weld to hold the ****** stud still so I can loosen the bolt on the other side to add shims and retighten. Can't get **** to stick !!! Using a 6013 rod, tried it at 75 and 90 amp. Not going any hotter. I'm afraid I'll burn the frame away then I'm ****** and have a junk truck.

 

[smurph20]

Is the puddle sticking to anything or just puddling up and falling off? Might need to clean the area better?

 

[crazy4offroad]

Clamp your ground on the bolt.

 

[HotRodPC]

Is the puddle sticking to anything or just puddling up and falling off? Might need to clean the area better?

That is very possible. These stud backs are up in and behind the motor pads, so access is very limited to clean. It looks clean now from burning off the grease. About the only thing that can reach up in there is the rod itself. In fact, once I'm down to half a rod, I have to get another to make the reach.

Clamp your ground on the bolt.

I tried and the clamp just pops off with the little nub of thread that is exposed on the front side. So I've clamped to the control arm shaft and got a great hold on it.

 

[HotRodPC]

I don't know dudes. I'm getting so disgusted with this now, I'm considering a Sawzall and see if can cut the studs between the shaft and the A arm, then put it out the back and see if can put some hardened bolts in it with a Hex on the back so I can at least with help to back it up, get some mutherfuckin shims in this bitch and tighten it down. It's dangerous as hell to be driving this truck this way, and as said, this issue is what has killed my motivation with it. I need to get rockin on my ****. Been a long time coming. I have a stereo system to install in it, guages, that new dizzy, radiator, recovery bottle. All kinds of stuff I can do to it, then start working on the cosmetics once and for all. **** this sucks !!!

 

[Guardian]

It may sound crazy but...
I have welded another bolt on the threaded end of the stud, threads to threads, and used a wrench to hold the stud during the adjustments. Afterwards you cut the added piece off. You can do this and remove the a-frame so the tack can be done from the outside.

 

[bucket]

It may sound crazy but...
I have welded another bolt on the threaded end of the stud, threads to threads, and used a wrench to hold the stud during the adjustments. Afterwards you cut the added piece off. You can do this and remove the a-frame so the tack can be done from the outside.

That doesn't sound crazy to me, sounds like a darn good idea

 

[HotRodPC]

It may sound crazy but...
I have welded another bolt on the threaded end of the stud, threads to threads, and used a wrench to hold the stud during the adjustments. Afterwards you cut the added piece off. You can do this and remove the a-frame so the tack can be done from the outside.

That's actually a good idea If I am capable. I can get a short bolt, and if it has clearance, I'd leave it there. This would also be on the front side so with 2 wrenches be able to break the nut loose and not need a second man on the backside underneath. It can all be done in the wheel well. It can stay there forever for all I care as long as I have enough space to let the A arm travel and not hit it.

 

[HotRodPC]

So when I get good and woke up, get the drugs kicked in so I can walk today, I'm gonna give this a try. Sitting here thinking, how can I hold that bolt at the same time I'm welding and see what I'm doing??? I have a fairly heavy magnet I'll put on the shaft and that should magnetize the studs too and hopefully the stud and bolt tips together while I tack it I hope.