Adding Electric Locks- '76 C20 CCLB

[RADustin]

Looking to add electric locks to all 4 doors in my '76 C20 CCLB.

I don't mind the wiring aspect, I can probably figure that out.

For the hardware, the power latches, do I just get some from a later suburban?

I tried searching and it isn't clear if the locks stayed the same through all the years of square.

Also, was the door key lock always mechanically attached to the lock, or did it ever go electric connection? IE did the key lock ever become just an electric switch? While I'm playing with locks, it would be nice to make it a little harder to slim-jim the lock.

TIA

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Looking to add electric locks to all 4 doors in my '76 C20 CCLB.

I don't mind the wiring aspect, I can probably figure that out.

For the hardware, the power latches, do I just get some from a later suburban?

I tried searching and it isn't clear if the locks stayed the same through all the years of square.

Also, was the door key lock always mechanically attached to the lock, or did it ever go electric connection? IE did the key lock ever become just an electric switch? While I'm playing with locks, it would be nice to make it a little harder to slim-jim the lock.

TIA

You're right. Not a lot of good info on this. I can tell you that the regulators, rods, etc. will swap in from a later model into yours. You just need to grab the hardware from a Burb or another crew, probably 1977-91 years. Also, take some pictures so you can have a reference. The only thing that's a gamble is trusting a used regulator to work because those things get tired over time. Me, I'd get new ones. Should be twenty bucks apiece on RockAuto, and there's a five percent discount code for them that you can find in the preferred vendor section. The door cylinder was never phased out for an electric switch. You can really feel all that junk moving around when you turn the key up through the 1991 squares. PAP in Harvey had a Suburban, but it was picked pretty good when I was there last a couple months ago. Almonaster has a couple squares with good parts, but they're both just little standard cab C10's. Those are really the only ones I use here. Oh, I don't know if he does it, but @gmachinz makes a lot of different harness, and they are the real deal, too, so I'd suggest checking him out for a door lock harness if you pursue this project or anything else electrical.

 

[RADustin]

You're right. Not a lot of good info on this. I can tell you that the regulators, rods, etc. will swap in from a later model into yours. You just need to grab the hardware from a Burb or another crew, probably 1977-91 years. Also, take some pictures so you can have a reference. The only thing that's a gamble is trusting a used regulator to work because those things get tired over time. Me, I'd get new ones. Should be twenty bucks apiece on RockAuto, and there's a five percent discount code for them that you can find in the preferred vendor section. The door cylinder was never phased out for an electric switch. You can really feel all that junk moving around when you turn the key up through the 1991 squares. PAP in Harvey had a Suburban, but it was picked pretty good when I was there last a couple months ago. Almonaster has a couple squares with good parts, but they're both just little standard cab C10's. Those are really the only ones I use here. Oh, I don't know if he does it, but @gmachinz makes a lot of different harness, and they are the real deal, too, so I'd suggest checking him out for a door lock harness if you pursue this project or anything else electrical.

OK- cool.

I'm not looking to do electric windows. Just power door locks.

As long as the power locks swap from door to door- then that will work. I can buy all new power latches and swap them in- and wire them up.

Its hard(for me) to figure out the differences in the doors. Apparently they changed in '77 to be different from '76. Like the window regulators and door panels and such are different. But- with that said I think my truck has later door panels anyways- it's such a bastard truck I don't know what is factory and what isn't.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

OK- cool.

I'm not looking to do electric windows. Just power door locks.

As long as the power locks swap from door to door- then that will work. I can buy all new power latches and swap them in- and wire them up.

Its hard(for me) to figure out the differences in the doors. Apparently they changed in '77 to be different from '76. Like the window regulators and door panels and such are different. But- with that said I think my truck has later door panels anyways- it's such a bastard truck I don't know what is factory and what isn't.

You're right. The door design changed in 1977 to accommodate the new power window hardware. That's the actual shell of the door, though. The door panels did, too. The power locks don't need that kind of accommodation, though. People have swapped later square door lock hardware onto '73 squares.

 

[RADustin]

You're right. The door design changed in 1977 to accommodate the new power window hardware. That's the actual shell of the door, though. The door panels did, too. The power locks don't need that kind of accommodation, though. People have swapped later square door lock hardware onto '73 squares.

LMC doesn't list the latches separate from power lock to non power lock. Therefore, do I just need the actuators and I have power locks? I'm going to hunt this down...

 

[75gmck25]

I installed one of the remote power lock kits from LMC in my '75 GMC about 10 years ago. I used the solenoids that came with the kit, and they seemed to work without any problem for quite a while. I initially drilled small holes for wiring in the door frame and door, and then later went back and retrofitted the rubber boots they used for wiring on the newer trucks.

The add-on lock kit does not use any switches in the doors. You just use the remote or pull the knob up and down. The solenoid on the driver's door has an extra wire to the control module, so when you push down or pull up the driver's door lock button it locks/unlocks both doors.

The solenoids with the add-on kit are cheap (about $5 to replace). I've replaced one over the years, and have another that now seems weak.

I also pulled a complete power door lock system off a newer truck, with the idea of upgrading mine to a factory system. The factory solenoids are much better made, and the upgrade seemed worth it. However, since the old doors don't have any mounting points for the factory solenoids, I was experimenting and trying to figure out how to mount them. I also realized that for a factory kit I would ahave to install door switches, which meant cutting up my door trim. I've had the parts sitting in a bag for several years and have never gotten back to making the installation of the factory parts.

Bruc

 

[RADustin]

I read that the electric window regulators are the same as manual, and the reason for the bigger door panel on the 77+ is to hide the electric door lock. Can anyone confirm?

so the door lock actuator just simply bolts to the inner door structure?

 

[brokaw]

I finally resolved my issues with installing OEM pd. in my '87 and they work great. I'd bought a keyless remote system from LMC years ago. Anyone know if I can instal it using my OEM actuators and simply bypassing my OEM door-mounted switches?

 

[gmachinz]

Should have messaged me-I have stock power lock harnesses available too-all factory and plug n play w/NOS relay too.

 

[Crispy]

I finally resolved my issues with installing OEM pd. in my '87 and they work great. I'd bought a keyless remote system from LMC years ago. Anyone know if I can instal it using my OEM actuators and simply bypassing my OEM door-mounted switches?

Any aftermarket lock system can be made to work in conjunction with the existing power door lock whether OEM or aftermarket. You will retain function of your oem switches if installed.