97 burb transmission woes...

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ScottyB

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The new burb definitely needed a intake gasket and that was done. I had some trouble afterward with it running like crap and found that there is a timing issue (still) but also a TPS issue. TPS issue was resolved today and took it out for a test drive. Still kicking the Crank/ Cam code (Timing) but all the other codes are clear.

During the test drive a new problem came up. Drove fine while the transmission was cool but once it got up to temp it wouldn't shift into 3rd anymore. If I drop it to 2nd it drives ok. If I shift to 3rd it just goes into Neutral.

Potentially relevant data: Found out today that the transmission has had a slow leak (quart every 3k miles). I wasn't aware of this hadn't checked the fluid as he had just done an oil change a couple months before he parked it. When we checked it today it was down 2 quarts. Test drive while connected to snapon scanner (And after fluid level was corrected) showed nominal Torque Converter slip while this was occurring.

We are thinking this is a bad solinoid but have no idea if that is for sure, how to test for it, or how much of a PITA it is to correct.
 

HotRodPC

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It should be either a solenoid or the 3/4 clutch pack most likely. Might have to find specs and ohms test the B Solenoid. Pretty sure that's the 2-3 solenoid. Not positive.
 

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Clutch packs doesn't sound encouraging. I have no transmission experience. My buddy used to rebuild transmissions but older ones, not the electronic ones. He doesn't have the tools to do a 4l60. I was hoping to avoid a full rebuild.
 

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A 4l60 is just an electric 700r4.
 

ScottyB

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A 4l60 is just an electric 700r4.

Same tools used or are there other specialty tools needed that are different from the 700r4? My buddy used to rebuild the older transmission and still has many of the tools. He never got into the electronic ones though.
 

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Try putting the old tps back on and see if you still have this trans issue first. Then move on to the solenoid.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

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Sorry if the narrative wasn't clear. The trans problems started prior to the TPS swap. TPS was garbage and not providing any signal.
 

350runner

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Good deal. As hotrod said the solenoid will give those same symptoms when it has gone bad. This has been a problem for a lot of vehicles with shift solenoids

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

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Something I may have forgotten to mention, It shifts fine when cold. It only drops 3rd once the trans gets up to temp.
 

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Do do you have a check engine light? Either way find somewhere local and have them pull the code. A code should be stored in the computer.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

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P0756:*2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve PerformanceP0758:*2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Electrical

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

ScottyB

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No transmission codes. Had other engine related codes and now down to just a cam/crank code. That is a hold over from when we tore apart the intake. The timing is actually very close to where it needs to be. It sounds better than it has in years.

Latest theory I've heard is there is a seal going. As the fluid heats up it thins out starts leak past. When it is cold it is thick enough to work. I actually had a recommendation to cut the trans fluid 50/50 Dexron and Mercon. The Mercon is a thicker fluid and so that would help with the seal issue.

Obviously this is not a long term solution. I'm hoping it would by me some time to acquire a used one that can be rebuilt to swap in.
 

HotRodPC

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Same tools used or are there other specialty tools needed that are different from the 700r4? My buddy used to rebuild the older transmission and still has many of the tools. He never got into the electronic ones though.

All the same tools will work for the 700r4 and 4L60-E WITH EXCEPTION of, the electronic diagnostic equipment to test your solenoids. You might luck out taking the truck to a trans shop for a diagnostic test. It might be $69 just for a diagnosis, but then if it's just a solenoid, swap it out yourself or get a quote from them to do it and weigh it both ways of letting them do it or you do it. Sometimes shops will apply the diagnostic fee toward the repair itself if you let them do the job.
 

HotRodPC

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No transmission codes. Had other engine related codes and now down to just a cam/crank code. That is a hold over from when we tore apart the intake. The timing is actually very close to where it needs to be. It sounds better than it has in years.

Latest theory I've heard is there is a seal going. As the fluid heats up it thins out starts leak past. When it is cold it is thick enough to work. I actually had a recommendation to cut the trans fluid 50/50 Dexron and Mercon. The Mercon is a thicker fluid and so that would help with the seal issue.

Obviously this is not a long term solution. I'm hoping it would by me some time to acquire a used one that can be rebuilt to swap in.

If you think it's seals, get a good transmission conditioner. That's about all a transmission conditioner is anyway. It will soften the seals and make them swell, extending the life of hardened seal transmission. You might just get another month, you might get another year. Never know.
 

ScottyB

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So the burb has been sitting while I try to come up with some cash to fix the tranny, conditioner didn't help. Buddy called me today said he may have an option for me. Knows a guy with a 95 truck that was in an accident. It only has 85,000 original miles. Would the 95 trans go into my 97 ok? Other issue is it has sat for a couple years. Big problem?

Care to weigh in @HotRodPC?
 

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