86 K10 5.3 swap

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Camar068

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The wire size on the fan relay box for a 2006 LS is 12 Awg. Should be fine as I over estimated for initial spike in the calculations below, running amps are way lower than shown. Also, this is at 12V, not your running voltage of ~13.5V. Copy and paste any over HR lol.

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HotRodPC

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More good info. I had to copy that over to the Retrofit E Fan thread too.
 

Camar068

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More good info. I had to copy that over to the Retrofit E Fan thread too.

Figured it was a good idea, but didn't want to get too deep lol.
 

Camar068

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Laid the harness on the engine the way I think I want it. Plugged everything in. Now comes the clean up. I'll wrap up those wires I'm not 100% positive about location or possible future relocation etc.

I need to get on this and have it running on the stand soon. I still need to do the tank relocation and run lines/cables back there. Plan is to have it done with all the bugs worked out by hunting season in September.

Excuse the floor.....it's the basement and all mine!
 

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Camar068

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I came across some aluminum at work. They look pretty cool and should polish up easily. I set them on the engine for a few test shots. I've also got a piece of plexiglass thats curved and may look good in between these two covers.

If I use them, I'll cut the bottom of the big circle and bend some of that to possibly mount to the fuel rail mounts. That will help it "hug" down over the rails/wiring. Put caps on the ends and paint, throw some leds underneath......who knows.

Goal is for something different for a cover.
 

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Camar068

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here's a pic of the 2 covers put together as they were found inside an oxygen concentrator. They slide together to create what you see. There's a cap that goes on one end, the other cap has 2 solenoids to redirect airflow throw the different chambers you see.

lol if you've got a better idea to do with this thing, please share. I hate to cut it up just for a cover if it's got a better use. I joked about putting the assembly on top with a loud ass fan inside and call it my redneck supercharger.
 

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Camar068

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lol, just realized. My work today has been listening to Death Angel then Joe Satriani then to KC and the Sunshine band. Damn at a mix!
 

Camar068

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Measured current flow on the fan. It's a 98 windstar fan made by TYC (part # 620270).

-small fan = (start spike/running) 29/7 amps
-large fan = (start spike/running) 34/15 amps

Update:

Tested with my truck battery and not lawn mower battery I had laying around....

-small fan = (start spike/running) @ 12.7V = 31/10
-small fan = (start spike/running) @ 14.5V = 35/11.5
-large fan = (start spike/running) @ 12.7V = 35/10
-large fan = (start spike/running) @ 14.5V = 40/12.5

Feel free to update the other post HR.....I couldn't find it. I don't like giving out false info.
 

HotRodPC

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here's a pic of the 2 covers put together as they were found inside an oxygen concentrator. They slide together to create what you see. There's a cap that goes on one end, the other cap has 2 solenoids to redirect airflow throw the different chambers you see.

lol if you've got a better idea to do with this thing, please share. I hate to cut it up just for a cover if it's got a better use. I joked about putting the assembly on top with a loud ass fan inside and call it my redneck supercharger.

Did someone say Supercharger?!?!? :grd:
 

Camar068

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Did someone say Supercharger?!?!? :grd:

would love to do a supercharger.

Side note, the relay size has been bugging me as much as the wire size. We figured out the wire size earlier this week. Above I posted a peak current draw at 40 amps on the large fan. With only 30 and 35 amp relays, it's been bugging me since I took the reading.

I'll be damned if I didn't come across the relays I need. They appear to be the same socket size as the relays in the '06 fan relay box but 50A. I've got 2 SPDT 5 pin and 6 SPST 4 pin on the way. I'll have plenty to spare as I only need 1 SPDT and 2 SPST. Part #'s below. Yes they've got the resistor as well. They do have a model with diodes if that's what your looking for.

I'll post results, and current draw (using the DC shunt I just built) picture on the scope. So we'll see just how many amps it draws at start up. I got a feeling my meter didn't show me the true peak current. Fun stuff!!

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=898H-1AH-C-R1-U04-12VDCvirtualkey62000000virtualkey893-898H1AHCR1U0412V

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=898H-1CH-C-R1-U03-12VDCvirtualkey62000000virtualkey893-898H1CHCR1U312VD

Tech docs on them:

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/378/898-2983.pdf

Model #'s

898H-1CH-C-R1-U03
898H-1AH-C-R1-U04

Originally found here:

https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1402/Mechanical-Relays-Connectors/
 
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Camar068

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10 yrs Air Force

Camar068

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10 yrs Air Force
I called Ametherm up with my voltage/amp readings I was getting and we worked out a model they have that will cut the inrush current from ~40 amps down to ~20. At $2.50 ea. at digikey I ordered 10. Amazon users used it for their blower motors on their home HVAC as well....that's why I ordered 10. Amazon's price was about $7 ea.

These were spec'd at 14.5 V @ 12 amps (TYC replacement fan for a 98 windstar).

https://www.ametherm.com/datasheetspdf/SL321R030.pdf
 

Camar068

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Using the DC shunt I measured amps on the scope on a 12.2V battery.

~35 amp inrush shown:

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After installing the thermistor. Ametherm SL32 1R030. ~9 amps, inrush gone, slow start not needed:

picture.php
 

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