New Guy Stumped

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DKLittle

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So I buy an 87 C10 with 305 and auto trans, supposedly all stock (I say supposedly because I just don't know enough to tell). I get it home 25 miles to my driveway and it dies on me. It will start and run poorly for about 3 seconds and sometimes will belch flame back through the throttle body. It has fuel getting to the throttle body verified by disconnecting the fuel line and turning the key on. It also sprays fuel through the injectors when you try to start it. It gets spark to at least the #1 plug.

I didn't pay much for it and I intend to use it as a farm truck so I don't want to sink a bunch of money into it right now. Any ideas where to start. If it hadn't been running I would think timing. If it didn't have spark I would think ignition module or distributor cap. I would think fuel system if it didn't have spray.

Where should I start the search?
 

DoubleDingo

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I would check timing, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. Basically a full tune up.
 

77 K20

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How did it run before it died? Fine?
 

DKLittle

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Yes it was running like a top.
 

texnet

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Sounds like the distributor slipped...
 

rich weyand

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Sounds like the distributor slipped...

Oooo. That's a good one to check. Good catch!

I've been sitting here thinking about this one, and didn't think of that, even though it happened to me.
 

DKLittle

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Ok anything special I need to do/look for or just reset the distributor and set the timing?
 

marks86

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I would check timing, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. Basically a full tune up.

other than the timing I would not even check any of it, just replace them and see how the truck runs
 

DoubleDingo

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other than the timing I would not even check any of it, just replace them and see how the truck runs

That's what I meant by full tune up. Just worded it wrong. Unless you know for sure or were told specifically when the last tune up was done, you have to assume it is all old equipment and about to fail. Even new stuff can be bad. For peace of mind change it and set the timing.

When I bought mine the PO told me when it was done, and I let it go for a couple years. Wish I had changed sooner because he bought poor quality stuff.
 

marks86

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exactly... theres nothing worse than having a problem and spending tons of time trying to fix it and it turns out to be a simple tune up issue
 

DKLittle

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I finally got a chance to work on it today. I pulled the dist cap and rotor. They were pretty chewed up. Had to break the rotor to get it off the shaft. The number three plug was missing part of the center electrode and the insulator. I'm not sure where it went. The cyl still has compression, I tried sticking a magnet in the plug hole and it didn't pick up anything. So new plugs, new wires, new dist cap and rotor. Still won't run properly pretty much just as it was just a little smoother. Sooo #1 to tdc and set the dist so the rotor points to #1 and button it back up. Now it won't run at all and is popping back through the tbi. Sooo #1 to tdc again and the rotor is now 180 from where it was originally and not pointed at #1 more like pointed at the front of the engine. Now when I try to rotate it so the electrode on the rotor is lined up with #1 the dist won't sit all the way back down in the hole. What am I doing wrong?

Also the chilton I have doesnt have a picture of a properly aligned dist and rotor. Does anyone have that picture? That might help.
 

highdesertrange

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ok there is another thread on here recently about finding tdc. 2 things real quick. to get the broken spark plug pieces out put a shop vac to the plug hole make sure both valves are closed. clean the shop vac out first so you can see the parts. the distributor will go in if someone pushes it down while someone else clicks the engine over. highdesertranger
 

350runner

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You have to turn the oil pump shaft to sit the distributor back down in the hole. You'll need a long flat head screw driver. Try and get a flash light and look in the hole you'll see a slot. That's what you turn :)

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

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