Diagnose Engine Problems w Vac Guage

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89Suburban

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That would be an easy adjustment to make and see if it brings the vac up. Possible side effect of your bent timing tab?

May be. I couldn't believe how steady the needle was though. Better be after that head install. I may have to set the timing reading that vacuum gauge, I dunno.... :help:
 

HotRodPC

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May be. I couldn't believe how steady the needle was though. Better be after that head install. I may have to set the timing reading that vacuum gauge, I dunno.... :help:

Yes, I'd certainly expect it be to steady too. Do keep in mind, a small vac leak can cause this too.
 

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Yes, I'd certainly expect it be to steady too. Do keep in mind, a small vac leak can cause this too.

I'll have to break the propane tank out and sniff for a vacuum leak, and not blow myself up in the proceeees.
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Just can;t imagine a vacuum leak after all the **** I replaced unless it's a line or diaphragm somewhere. :025:
 

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I'll have to break the propane tank out and sniff for a vacuum leak, and not blow myself up in the proceeees.
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Just can;t imagine a vacuum leak after all the **** I replaced unless it's a line or diaphragm somewhere. :025:

Even a little carbon build up on the EGR not allowing it to close off fully can cause a Vac leak, just that it's internal, not external.
 

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I ran a vacuum test on my 350. I shot a youtube video of it. Based on some guides I read from this thread. I'm guessing I have weak valve springs? Or is the vacuum drop under throttle normal?

Youtube Video of Vacuum Test

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Rock-solid needle at idle, perfect. Vacuum will drop when you open the throttle.
 

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Rock-solid needle at idle, perfect. Vacuum will drop when you open the throttle.

Great! Thanks. I'm glad it's good. Well, now the thread has a real video example of a good test result.
 

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Great! Thanks. I'm glad it's good. Well, now the thread has a real video example of a good test result.

Cool Video. I embedded it. :waytogo:
 

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Quick question. I just checked my truck with a vacuum gauge (used manifold vacuum from t behind carb...line original going to hvac canister i think). and it read a kinda steady 13-14", looked at the vacuum tuning pics and it seems to be like timing is retarded or my cam is bigger than I thought. It used to pull 16-17" with a slight flicker, now the flicker is a little more and I advanced teh timing to 12* which landed me a 14-15" reading on the vacuum gauge. My truck seemed to run best 6 or so months ago at 14* initial. my dad wanted me to leave it 10*, stock on the emissions sticker is 8*. Why did the vacuum readings drop so much (16-17 to 13-14) and also my timing mark floats about a quarter inch back and forth, could that cause an issue? that's with dizzy tight and not able to move with force.
 

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I didn't get a response from my question regarding what may be causing the miss in my engine and it's almost quitting time. So I did a search for this thread because I remembered seeing it a long time ago. I used the windows snipping tool to clip images of the different scenarios and printed them out with 2 scenarios per page, cut the pages in half and stapled them into a booklet. Hopefully I can get the engine running smoothly again using the vacuum gauge as my diagnosing tool. I cannot stand a rough running engine.
 

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Seems to be happening alot lately without responses. Us dudes who are usually here quick on the spot have been very busy this summer and not spending as much time online and not even having time to work on our own junk. We need to get better with responses.

Did the vac test help you at all with a diagnosis?

So what was your question Shane? There are tons of things that can cause an engine miss. Even a carb adjustment can cause an engine miss where many guys thinks that's not true. It damn sure can. There is such thing called a Lean Misfire. You get to lean, it can misfire. Bad plug wire, fouled plug, retarded timing, etc are the easy ones. Some reasons are a bit harder to fix and just have to be lived with unless you want to spend the money, like a slightly burnt valve or dirty valve seat.
 

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Seems to be happening alot lately without responses. Us dudes who are usually here quick on the spot have been very busy this summer and not spending as much time online and not even having time to work on our own junk. We need to get better with responses.

Did the vac test help you at all with a diagnosis?

So what was your question Shane? There are tons of things that can cause an engine miss. Even a carb adjustment can cause an engine miss where many guys thinks that's not true. It damn sure can. There is such thing called a Lean Misfire. You get to lean, it can misfire. Bad plug wire, fouled plug, retarded timing, etc are the easy ones. Some reasons are a bit harder to fix and just have to be lived with unless you want to spend the money, like a slightly burnt valve or dirty valve seat.

I totally get the busy part. :) I have been too, and only getting on here while I'm at work leaves me not responding to you guys as often or as quickly as I should. :sorry:

The vac test told me I either have dilluted oil or bad rings, or retarded valve timing. The oil has about 30 minutes on it, but since it is past the break-in, I will go ahead and change it and add zinc again. The engine is low mileage considering it's 33 years old, but the rings could be bad nonetheless. Just doesn't seem right when it ran fine before I pulled the engine to reseal it.

The vac gauge held steady at 15 on idle, but the rpm's were very low. I adjusted the idle up a little and the gauge rose to a steady 16. With the vac gauge holding steady it tells me the carb is adjusted well enough to run it.

The ticking sound has me worried so I didn't run it for more than a couple minutes. The sound appears to be coming from the from right front rockers. The exhaust bolts are all tight so it's not the exhaust leaking. It has a "tinny metal sound" to it anyhow, not an "air passing through a small hole" sound. To me, that means one of the rockers went south already. I suspected a spring broke or went bad, but the heads have about 100 hours on them if that, and the vac gauge didn't indicate weak springs.

So now I am going to pull the spark plugs and check them against the recent pics I have of them. Then pull the valve covers, check the rockers, pushrods, springs, and studs to see if maybe a stud pulled out of the head, and redo the valve adjustment. When I replaced the rockers before, the rotor pointed between #1 and #8 on the cap when #1tdc was on the 0 mark on the timing tab. So I put it back that way after I replaced the cam and timing set. Thing is, there was a ton of slack in the old chain, and this new chain is tight. I will also pull the distributor and get the rotor pointing at #1 instead of tooth off on the cam gear. Very frustrated right now, but will...:grd::boxing::beatdeadhorse5::peace::rocking:
 

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Thanks for the info! Very helpful.

I ordered a vacuum gauge and it just came in the mail.

I first hooked it up to the manifold port on the Edelbrock 1400 600cf carberator. Nothing! 0 psi.

I hooked it up to the PCV hose (removed the PCV, left it on the valve cover, plugged it into the guage so that it's connected to the carburator). Now it's showing about 15 psi, wandering about +/- 1 psi. This is exactly what I expected, according the info in the guide that HotRod shared, because yesterday I checked the timing and it was only at 1 degree advanced. The guide shows that a retarded ignition timing will indicate exactly what I saw on my vacuum guage.

My question is this: why would the manifold port on my carb show 0 psi?

When I hit the throttle, it moved to around 10 psi or so. I then though maybe I had the manifold and timed vacuum ports mixed up, so I swapped plugs on the ports and hooked the gauge to the other port (what should be the timed/ported vacuum). It was identical to the other test. What gives??
 

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Thanks for the info! Very helpful.

I ordered a vacuum gauge and it just came in the mail.

I first hooked it up to the manifold port on the Edelbrock 1400 600cf carberator. Nothing! 0 psi.

I hooked it up to the PCV hose (removed the PCV, left it on the valve cover, plugged it into the guage so that it's connected to the carburator). Now it's showing about 15 psi, wandering about +/- 1 psi. This is exactly what I expected, according the info in the guide that HotRod shared, because yesterday I checked the timing and it was only at 1 degree advanced. The guide shows that a retarded ignition timing will indicate exactly what I saw on my vacuum guage.

My question is this: why would the manifold port on my carb show 0 psi?

When I hit the throttle, it moved to around 10 psi or so. I then though maybe I had the manifold and timed vacuum ports mixed up, so I swapped plugs on the ports and hooked the gauge to the other port (what should be the timed/ported vacuum). It was identical to the other test. What gives??

Ported vacuum reads 0 at idle and responds to throttle acceleration. So both those ports must be ported vacuum. Which would be reading vacuum above the throttle plates.
 

MannyDantyla

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Ported vacuum reads 0 at idle and responds to throttle acceleration. So both those ports must be ported vacuum. Which would be reading vacuum above the throttle plates.

That would make sense, but the port is supposed to be manifold vacuum.

In the diagram below, my vacuum advanced is hooked to the port on the right (driver side) and the port on the left is plugged. When I disconnect the vacuum advance and connect my vacuum guage in it's place, it shows 0 psi at idle and responds to throttle. Exactly like timed/ported vacuum but it should be manifold vacuum!

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I'll test it again today to make sure I didn't screw up some how.
 

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