Can "carburetor" and "throttle response" be in the same sentence?

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Jims86

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yes i set both trucks timing fully warm in the shop with vac advanced plugged and brother in truck in drive. And the dizzy is brand new in the 79 (ur question on weights).

this is the 79 setup. also before the egr got a block off plate and thats the old dizzy.
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i will try that teeter idea and how about the kick-down linkage on the 79? how tight should that be? i mean i don't want it to kick down every single time i tap the gas. But the 79 compared to the 77 is slower to down shift.

Ok, in your pic, the hard line with the orange splice is that heat source for the choke that I was refering to. perfect, its hooked up, so now the choke may need to be un wound a little.
Gotta do it when the engine is cold, but I usually have the throttle held open while getting a base setting on the choke. I unwind the choke housing untill the high step cam is in the off posistion, then wind it up just to the point to where it re engages, that way, I know the spring is not too tight, and the choke should kick off when the spring is to the correct temp. If its too tight, it may not kick down until summer time. I would estimate a proper engine temp at kickdown to be in the neighborhood of 80*.

What I am getting at, is that you dont want to set the choke to an un attainable temp for your climate....I guess I am OCD that way.
 

Kapdin

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I would estimate a proper engine temp at kickdown to be in the neighborhood of 80*.

:Whoa: lol if they come off around that they don't even wanna move......like i said they run great if the choke stays on the whole day lol. soooo wats wrong?
 

Kapdin

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well... i shouldn't say "They" cus the 77 does start to spit and sputter if the choke doesn't eventualy come off but the 79 wants it on all the time.
 

HotRodPC

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they run great if the choke stays on the whole day lol. soooo wats wrong?

Usually Vac leak, or severly out of A/F adjustment.
 

Kapdin

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has to be a/f....... have i mentioned im starting to hate carbs?
 

Kapdin

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just a tidbit of info..... ND has the largest swing in temps of all states... so i just think carb's are a headache around here. like i said we get -30's all the way up to 100 degrees. time to pull the 91 out of the 20 ft snowdrift and tbi one of them.
 

Kapdin

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spent the last hr researching q-jets. im trying to forget everything ive learned to see if im just dumb but so far ive found wat jims talking about

Tech Tip #3
How can you tell if an off-idle stumble is caused by a lean or a rich condition?
A carb running rich, as well as a carb running lean, can cause an off-idle stumble or hesitation upon acceleration. To narrow it down,
tap the roll pin out of the accelerator pump lever by using a small pin punch or a small finish nail. I actually use a small, broken drill
bit that’s just the right size. Using a hammer, gently tap the roll pin in towards the choke air horn wall. Don’t jam the pin right up
against the wall: Leave just a little bit of a gap so you can get a screwdriver blade in between the wall and the pin to pry it back again.
With the pin tapped out, remove the accelerator pump lever. I like to do this with the engine running so I won’t have any trouble
starting the engine without the accelerator pump. Now, rev the engine a little with the throttle. Notice if the engine seems quicker and
more responsive, or if the hesitation & stumble is worse. If the engine actually feels more responsive with the accelerator pump
disconnected, you have a rich condition. If the hesitation is worse than before, you have a lean condition. If there is no change
whatsoever, you have a non-functional accelerator pump.
To verify a suspected lean condition after this test, simply hold your cupped hand lightly over the choke air horn area with the engine
running at idle, restricting the air flow. If the idle speed and idle quality momentarily increases, you have a verified lean condition.
You need to select a jet/rod combination that will give you a little more Cruise Metering Area. Make these changes in less than 10%
increments using the Figures provided in this paper.
 

Jims86

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Stickey that **** HR!
 

Kapdin

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His whole paper is legit. even i can understand it lol.
 

Jims86

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His whole paper is legit. even i can understand it lol.

Its everything i wantedto say....just couldnt get it to my fingertips.
 

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Can test accel pump and other things simply while looking into carb. When running it should look just like it does when shut off. If there are drops of fuel something is wrong. Wack throttle should see nice streams of fuel otherwise the accel pump is crap.
 

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Just did a trouble shooting session on My 79.Dumped in five gallons of fuel,cranked and cranked,no fuel.
Pulled off the inlet fuel line to the pump,removed the output line,attached fuel pressure/vacuum guage.nope,nadda,nothing,ZIP.
Seems it is now time to replace the fuel pump.OH well,I have an old electric unit setting here,I`ll hook it up.get it into the garage,swap them front diffs. and go TBI instead of messing wit that old system.:emotions133::shocked:
 

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