I feel like you are going to be chasing problems for years. These frame are pretty weak and if you have significant damage up front, you'll probably have other issues arise.
I would personally do a swap. I can't speak for your area, but in Phoenix, I see frames for $300-500 pretty regularly.
I will probably buy the POL/ Western Chassis arms. Choppin Block and porterbilt both offer 1" narrower or offset forward/ back so I need to do some more research before I get there.
The original swaybar on my '63 Nova was probably 5/8. I see people on the Nova forum literally giving away the entire front subframe when they upgrade. I would think if you used the Nova crossmember and swaybar mounts, you'd have your hinge and mounting brackets and just need to come up with a...
I can only help with one of your questions.
I have a problem with my trip meter on my '90 and I called a local speedo shop. He said it just needs to be removed and cleaned 99% of the time. I can't remember how much he wanted but I was going to bring the speedo to him and let him clean/ adjust/...
Wish you were closer and wish I was a bit further along on my project(s). If for some reason, you are heading this way(Arizona) for a car show, vacation, etc, please let me know as I do think I would be interested in the Super magnum. I honestly don't know all the differences and can't seem to...
One of the biggest highlights of this thread, it's the best practice of boring oversize 0.020. For many years the industry standard was 0.030/0.060 and blocks went to scrap afterwards. Had the industry done .020/.040/.060 you'd get one more rebuild and there would be a lot more suitable cores...
5 lug front/ 10 lug rear?
There are a few companies that make wheels for those as they came with splits from the factory.
wheelsnow.com
Edit* Actually not sure when they switched from the splits. I think it may have been around 73/74 based on some past experience.
I have 2 different engines for my '63 Nova. A lot of different hands were involved in each and both were made with some parts/ processes you can't actually buy or are cost-prohibitive such as one-off billet heads or ported, polished, and flow tested water and oil passages. Both of these engines...
It's not that bad. A few minutes with a die grinder. Takes more time to mock-up/ and take apart multiple times to check it.
I have 6" rods on my 447ci SBC but the block came cast already clearanced if I recall correctly and the camshaft location is raised as well which helps. I think guys that...
400 is externally balanced. It should have an 8" dampener. If you feel behind it, you will feel a cut out half way around from 9-3 w/ the key at 12
Aftermarket damper will have a bolt in weight.
This is correct. Almost all hydraulic lifters are convex. Some of the spinning motion is created because flat/hydraulic tappet, non-roller cams have a 2-3 degree slope in them so the cam is always forced to the rear. Roller cams do not have this so a thrust bearing/ button/ retainer is required...
I would look at Qualitex if you want something more cush. Lots of options for heaters, lumbar, massagers, etc. Expensive but by the time you buy a used seat, make mounts, recover to match interior, make any repairs, etc. it may be cheaper.
I don't know how anyone could do it alone w/ out a hoist. I used to do the crab walk thing with it on my back to the edge and then 3 to lift it off. They are heavy.
If you do decide to remove the doors...drill a hole 3/16ths(???) through each hinge the diameter of a framing nail before removal...