I like the yellow. Sell it to me and you can go looking for something in your color.
I'd keep the wheels too. I like those wheels with the beauty rings.
Okay, I have a question. When putting shims in to change the angle of the rear pinion, do you put the shim in under the springs between the diff and the springs... or can you put it above the springs? Does it really matter?
My concern is this. The spring pin is just the bolt head coming out the...
Whatever you do don't use those 3M discs to clean the surfaces. They will put bearing eating material in the oil galley and it's likely you will lose the bottom end if it gets down in the bottom end.
There's one just like it sitting in a wrecking yard here. '68 Suburban, same color, and although a lot of parts are stripped it's pretty solid. And it's a three door, so fairly rare. I'm trying to decide if I have one more rebuild in me...
Thanks, that would be helpful. I'd be curious anyways. What makes a Suburban capable of carrying a 40 gallon tank anyways? I suppose more length behind the axle than a blazer. If you can get a measurement I'd like to know.
Yup, and I've already considered the sledge hammer approach. Shade tree mechanics is sometimes the best solution dollar and time-wise...
But I'm putting it out there to see if anyone that's done the relocation has any better ideas.
You have a Suburban? How is your bracket mounted to make room...
Maybe I missed it... but has anyone got any ideas about how to deal with the rear brake line bracket? Do you relocate it somehow? Seems like it would be in the way even on a long bed.
Isn't it possible to cut down an eight foot bed floor to use it as a six? Seems odd to me that a company would supply one because it is more popular but leave the rest hanging just for the lack of a few inches of sheet metal.
If the truck is too tall you can flatten the tires or even take the wheels off to take the height out.
My two cents, don't go radical with roller cam or timing gears or any of that kind of high dollar low return kind of thing. The most bang for the buck is going to be an RV cam and a set of...
Before, fresh from the wrecking yard where it deteriorated for 21 years.
And seven years later, just before I hung the bumpers. 390 with a 427 crank. I added 20 inch wheels after this pic was taken.
Anybody have any newer information on floor pans? Or replacement metal like fenders, bed sides, or corners? Is it worth reviving this thread?
I need some new floor pans for a '78 so wondering where to get them.
I think I finally located the proper pump and ordered it from Jegs. The part number is A7023.
The pump I ordered, based on the image they publish with the part number, has a return line that goes underneath the pump and toward the front, a press on pulley, the right fitting for the pressure...
Have you tried flipping the switch to use the left tank? Could you have some crossed wires at the fuel selector switch? (Are you talking about the switch on the dash or the valve under the truck?)
Put some gas in the left tank and see what happens. The switching system to change tanks has...
Turned out that when they crossed the number it was the one they listed already, which is wrong. So I called O'Reilly and they list the wrong pump too, and then I stooped to calling (shudder) Autozone... after looking for the pump on their site and finding one with the same part number (7023N)...
LOL... well I appreciate your lack of confidence in my skill set.
And so far nobody has answered the question if all the drive shafts are the same length regardless of transmission.
I think you may have something Paul. It's clocked correctly and has the right return line, a press on shaft, and two holes in the back. I'm going to NAPA again tomorrow and see if they can cross the number.
Appreciate the response but any kind of driveshaft shop is over a hundred miles away. Both shafts are fully collapsed and measure the same (29 1/2) u-joint to u-joint.
Is there a difference between the shafts used for a 350 and 400 trans? Some of the listings I'm finding use the u-joint to...