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  1. A

    Build thread 5.3 W/6L80e in a 1986

    87 tank. 87 sending units. late model pump. dont use an inline pump.
  2. A

    New toy.

    If you do the ls6 intake, you have to do the camaro accys. Everything is in a different location.
  3. A

    New toy.

    Carb blows. Been there done that. Go with FI. Won't cost anymore than a carb either.
  4. A

    Front end alignment issues

    Shims are not used on 4wds. Which the OP has.
  5. A

    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

    One of those is for the EVAP solenoid. It's not needed. The fuel line is the one that connects to the fuel rail on the intake.
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    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

    He'll just use the vette filter which has a regulator built into it I'm guessing.
  7. A

    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

    You'll need 21-3 as well. It comes with the specific brackets that work with truck accessories.
  8. A

    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

    Maybe this will help..
  9. A

    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

    Huh?
  10. A

    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

    Yep. That's the original drier. Hoses I had custom made at a local hose shop. ~55 each.
  11. A

    LQ4 Swap

    MPG would be better if it's not in a 3/4 ton. And gears/aerodynamics/weight have as much to do with MPG as anything. And for me, the swap was worth it for the drivability and reliability. And it just looks damn cool :rice:
  12. A

    LQ4 Swap

    If they are comparing 1500s with 5.3s to 2500s with 6.0s, then yes. But in the same vehicle there is zero difference in fuel mileage, and 6.0 has way more power.
  13. A

    LQ4 Swap

    This is incorrect. 6.0 is better in every way, except that it's more difficult to find and generally more expensive. It has more hp, more torque, same fuel mileage, and more potential. I have both.
  14. A

    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

    Too cheap to buy a real sanden. so chinese knockoff was the next best thing http://www.ebay.com/itm/4514-SD5H14-SANDEN-STYLE-COMPRESSOR-4509-508-NEW-W-7-GROOVE-POLY-BELT-PULLEY-/310359657606?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4842e08c86&vxp=mtr Yes, you'll have to have new hoses, no...
  15. A

    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

    The only way that you can use the factory compressor is to use it in the factory position. For any of the high mounts you'll need a Sanden compressor. Only had to buy the passenger side bracket and the install kit. 200ish for both.
  16. A

    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

  17. A

    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

    I'll get dad to send a pic of it tonight. And you'll need a Sanden compressor. I go one off ebay for like $120. Factory dryer will work, just get a new one.
  18. A

    5.3 swap, need help with fuel tank question

    For AC, holley makes brackets that put the ac up high and the brackets look factory. I did this last week and couldn't be happier. Pissed at myself for notching the frame for AC that never did work.
  19. A

    New truck

    Not too far from me...I'm down in Jackson
  20. A

    Electric to manual windows?

    I did. All you need is manual window regulators. And new door panels if you want it to look right of course.
  21. A

    Electric fuel pump location?

    After you move the pump near the selector switch, test your fuel pressure. If it's over 4.5 or so, get a regulator. My 1406 flooded something fierce if fuel pressure was over this. Holley's seem to be just fine at 6psi...which is what most e-pumps for carb are rated at.
  22. A

    Electric fuel pump location?

    Pump is mounted too far from the fuel tank. Electric fuel pumps are good at 'pushing' fuel, but not good at 'pulling'.
  23. A

    2" Block Kit

    Went with lift springs as mine were worn completely out.
  24. A

    easiest way to install aftermarket gauges?

    Where did you get the gauges you plan to install? I like! Here's mine
  25. A

    Catastrophic roller lifter failure

    You've probably found out by now, but the oil pump does NOT have to come off to remove the cam. Just the timing cover.

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