You can manually manipulate the regulator as the motor will turn with a slight bit of force. You can even change the motor with the glass & regulator in place but it would be a bit easier if you unbolted the regulator, I believe there are 3 bolts 2 nuts holding it in place.
Yeah, I have a set of one piecer's now, too! I bought them off Ebay a year ago! Hahaha, we think alike it seems! I have to go re-assemble my window now, then take it back apart when I get the correct seals...:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
I bought a set of nice new black pockets, but I'm keeping my charcoal door panels & the black ones don't look right, I have the original passenger pocket, but need another for my drivers door, Hope someone can help! TIA...
LMC Truck has both the 1 & 2 piece seals, rivet kits and latch rebuild kits. I'm doing this right now on my '87, I bought one piece seals off Ebay as most places list '87-'92, but they are actually 2 piece for my '87. I just had to order some 2 piece kits from LMC. :(
This pretty much my daily as I need it M-F for work. It does pull my job trailer quit a bit easier than the 'ole Square! 2022 GMC 2500 HD AT4, 6.6 gasser.
I believe they are part of the trim pieces. You might have to either order new trim, find some good ones at a bone yard, or improvise & modify your originals.
Or how about those stick-on hood scoops??? Being the owner of an Old's with a W-25 hood, I just want to take a baseball bat and beat those off of people's hoods, they look re damn diculous!
There is a screw on each side behind the headlight bezel, and one behind the front bumper filler. I believe there are 4 or 5 on top of the radiator support. The headlight bezels have 2 exposed screws on the bottom, and 2 under the hood on the support also. I recently changed my '87's grille...
Try Garnet or Walnut shells. I found Garnet to be the most aggressive without any substrate damage. A power washer will wash the residue away, I wouldn't be concerned, it's not a '63 Split-window you're trying to refinish! :)
I second checking the rag joint and adjusting the free play at the box with the adjuster nut. It's like a 5/8" nut w/1/4" or 5/16" allen bolt adjuster. I did that to my '87 & took all the wandering out of my steering.
I won't EVER waste my time on a new boot or CV joint. It's about a 20 minute job to replace entire axle, and they're usually under $70. It's not worth the aggravation to try to save the money with a new boot imo. Also, once the joint is rid of lube, it will just be a matter of time before is...
You can also try to find that section of the harness out of a bone yard or donor truck. That's what I try to do to keep things original & simple. Sometimes they are just short harnesses that might plug into the main harness nearby.
Welcome! My spoiled cousin's parents bought him a brand new '78 Cheyenne short fleet 4x4, 4-speed in '78. Had Kelly Springfield 31"x 10.50's on turbine mags, silver exterior w/red cloth & carpet interior. His brother's widow still has it, I'm trying to talk her into selling it as it's a great...
If your patient and somewhat flexible, you can lay on your floor, snake your arm up behind the dash and hook up & unhook the speedo cable. I've done it a couple of times, you just have to depress the clip a bit that holds the cable housing in place. If you can feel the end of the cable start...
Welcome to the site! I agree with 77 K20, sounds like a bad tranny to me. TH350's are not my fav, I've seen many go bad on 1/2 ton chassis when put to work, most could be related to people not knowing how to rebuild them.