I had the same issue. Cracking the caliper line helped me get home, but would happen again at random times. Finally traced it to the master to hyrdoboost interface. I loosened the nuts securing them together and and it released the brakes. I played with spacing and found a spacer made out...
Easiest way to check is to have someone push the pedal to the floor and hold it. Then go to the throttle lever on the carb and see if it will move any further. If it does, I don't see how changing a bracket would help. You need more travel in the pedal arm. I would try bending the pedal arm...
I modified mine with bigger wheels, and made handles that stick out the front (easier to lift the smaller front wheels and roll on larger pneumatic rears over gravel and uneven surfaces), as well as a tall handle loop on the front for pushing around. And horseshoes welded on for hanging musc...
I would see if they would fit behind the grill. If they do, wire them temporarily and see if they still put out enough light to be worth mounting there. I don't think they would fit the look of your truck out front, which looks great as is.
There is some play with the bolts through the mounts. You will just have to loosen them and experiment. I would spray some rust penetrant on them and let them set for a day or so. If you can get a torch in to heat the nut up prior to trying to turn it would be a bonus. Its common for the...
Welcome. Easy trucks to work on. My son has my old 68, and I'm working on a 70 now. If you haven't found it yet, 67-72chevytrucks.com is a great forum too.
We have gone for probably the last 12 years or so. Always enjoyed it. Last year noticed that the Expo Center one was maybe only 50-60% of the booths that were there before. The lower parking lot was now just parking (used to be all booths), and the buildings were pretty empty compared to...
Just a wild guess. Have you pulled the cap and made sure the cam is actually spinning the distributor shaft/rotor? Rotor center button contacting the cap when seated?
I replaced all the smaller factory gauges in mine with some basic 2" oil, volt, temp, and tach gauges. Just opened up the factory holes and taped over the printed circuit in the area so it didn't short out. Good enough for my daily driver
Whenever I hear people talking about 3" exhaust, I think back to my high school days when you had to pay extra to upgrade to the big 2" exhaust. Looks great. Reminds me that I haven't done anything on my 70 for a few weeks.
Pegged past full means an open circuit. Look for a disconnected, broken, etc wire. You may be able to see the connection on the tank while installed at the bed gap.
Just remembering, I think the headlight circuit doesn't work like a traditional circuit. Something like it's the ground side that is switched , so if you were trying to use a different harness, it's tough to integrate the two. Could be way off, so hopefully those more knowledgeable will chime in.
If it's an aftermarket harness, I would guess that if you have the main power input hooked up to the new fusebox, a good ground, and a complete circuit with fuse, that circuit should work. If it's a factory harness, check the fusible links as they feed most of the circuits.
If you can't see any active leaks, you may have a problem with the master cylinder. Either defective or needs bleeding. Did they ever work for you or just go out? Is it a project you just got and had no brakes?