Put a test light on the choke lead somewhere you can see it from the driver seat. Keep the truck running with your foot. Does the light light. The choke hot wire should not keep your truck from starting and running cold. Have you tested your choke pull offs. They should pull the choke open...
What would have made sense was telling us you were using Dakota digital and didn't need your OE senders on the first post. You still we need a wire for the starter solenoid,unless your aftermarket harness has one. What about heater blower,wipers,and AC
^^^^ There will be other wires you need. Alternator exciter,oil pressure,temp sender,fuel gauge sender,etc. Clean up what's not needed after EVERYTHING is in and working. Okay we are back to ads covering every inch of my phone screen. WTF!
Not necessarily the oil pressure switch behind the distributor. Some use the switch behind the distributor for the gauge/light and a seperate switch above the oil filter for the choke. Some use a dual function switch above the oil filter,some put 2 switches behind the distributor,and some have a...
That should be fine,but you have to have the truck running. Choke should not be fully closed at idle as soon as it fires the choke pull off should open the choke about 3/16ths. I am assuming everything is factory and still a quadrajet.
You pull the connection off the choke and read from the connector in your hand,to ground. The truck has to be running. The choke only gets power when there is oil pressure.
Ruggles. went through a new quadrajet I'll get the name of the company in a minute. He's been into 2 of them now and he says you are better off to rebuild a core quadrajet the average consumer would never get all the problems corrected. I also saw a video I'll try to find it and link it...
I'm laughing seriously,because of all the years I've had my eyes open for an overdrive saginaw,I've found exactly zero, of any gear ratio. But I can throw a rock in any salvage yard and hit a 700r4
The factory 3speed OD transmissions were not a hang off the back deal. The overdrive was built into the transmission,was electrically operated and would freewheel instead of engine brake when you let off the gas. I'd think it would get as good or better than a 700 r4. They came with some steep...
You'd have better luck getting answers if you posted a pic,a screenshot anything to clue us in. Unless you truly want to hear from people that have used that exact fuel pump and know it by name assuming force is the specific name of that pump and they don't have more than one version.
The problem was with frame flex. Off road the frame flexes and twists and cracks the bellhousing as the gap between the bottom off the bell housing and bottom of the opens and closes due to stress. That's what the strut rods are suppose to prevent. I wasn't commenting about your leak,I was...
Just for fun I pulled msds on por15 metal ready prep. Ospho,Kleen Strip,and Rust Cutter. They are all phosphoric acid. Which turns rust into iron phosphate. Again it's tge magic prep not the magic paint like POR wants you to believe.
I think your corrector didn't have the correct center to center distance that's the only thing that makes sense. You needed a longer pull that requires a longer center to center distance.
Backpressure regulated EGR valves don't hold vacuum unless they have enough exhaust back pressure to close a bleed hole. IDK if you purchased or were supposed to have a BPR EGR valve but I'd guess that's what you bought.
And combination valve controls,proportioning,brake standoff,and has the shuttle valve. So if I were to use an adjustable proportioning valve I would use it in addition to a factory combination valve. I'd also probably investigate eliminating the proportioning portion of the factory combination...
Call Sargent is right in telling you you are missing the power feed on the junction block. Should be a 10 gauge red wire to positive battery originally probably off the starter or the back of the alternator. 10r2d is missing in your pic also if you look next to junction block,the metal strip is...
It keeps the gap from opening and closing between the bottom of the engine and the bottom of the block. That gap at the bottom of the block where there is no bolts to the block or bell housing just the top half is bolted. That spot is like a hinge it can open up or pinch and bow up,cracking...
If you pull the ignition switch back off and run it through it's full range of motion with a small screwdriver. If the truck starts it is almost for sure the ignition rack
Before anyone pics what hole to use based on a visual. More importantly which position makes the driveshaft the right length. Fine and good to center the wheel,but check driveshaft length.