Well, let's assume the valve is good. Maybe a silly question, but are the longer shoes on the rear ? Rear is the secondary shoe position which is the longer shoe.
Just slow, and hold it all the way down until both bleeder screws are closed. Be sure to make sure that the fluid level in the reservoir is OK before you do this and afterwards.
Don't want to run it dry. It's a free experiment if you have brake fluid.
I cannot visualize why you are having to do that but it sounds like enough of a PITA that Goldie with a 4 inch lift and 33's will stay with the original General's steering design. I heartily salute your efforts, however.
:patriot:
I think the way to look at it is that it isolates the good side and you won't lose the fluid from that side of the system. When mine failed not too long ago ( aftermarket replacement) that is what happened. I did have a low pedal as I was only stopping on the rears at the end which I think is...
Yes and no as I assume you and your helper did one wheel cylinder at a time. I am saying to open BOTH rear bleeders in an effort to emulate a rear failure and make the proportional valve spool shift over. They normally will recenter once the fault is corrected and a hard press of the brake...
Just my .02 from personal experience, but I would not change the valve as your replacement is going to be Chinesium. If you do change it , hang on to the old one. One thought might be that the valve is not centered. With a helper, try cracking the rear bleeder screws and push the brake pedal...
Advantage of driving Goldie to work - I can wander out to look. Pics ! Well, of one without the shield.
I am guessing that it just goes over the straps and there are nuts and bolts.
Well, I would see if there is a local sale 1st as less hassle for you. But, after whatever you think is a fair amount of time, you still have it ...
Then we should talk routes. :anitoof:
Thanks !
Britt