Glad you found it. I had a master cylinder fail on Goldie and fronts would lock, but you could wiggle the pedal and ultimately free it up. I have never had one fail like that-usually it is that pucker inspiring foot to the floor pedal operation. :eek:
Hopefully your replacement does well for...
Well, here is my old one I saved in a plastic bag in the garage. So much for protection from the Houston humidity...
:eek:
However, it does show the front chamber is smaller. The front is to the right.
I never knew.
No idea, but a question- does the dash light switch work for the lights ?
I am at a loss as to what wiring in the column could cause the dash lights to come on as the only other wiring in the column is for the turn signal switch and cruise if equipped.
If you jostled the 2 connectors on the ignition switch it could be causing power issues. I recently had weird blower issues - neither would work , then would- that turned out to be a bad spot on a terminal of the ignition switch. Blower requires key on power. Your power window issues could...
Actually, I was doing a little research on my work computer earlier today so can't link it but found a video of a 78 with the same set up and a you tube video showing that the forward ports on older cars often power the rear brakes.
So , I believe it is factory. Doesn't explain why my issue...
I wonder if a ground on the bus bar up by the parking brake pedal is loose. Or, if somehow one of the plugs on the ignition switch is loose. Just a wild guess based on the worked before.
Good Luck !
The hot and cold select is a cable operation so I am guessing that is not hooked up. Sadly you would have to get back in to the dash to see. The others are controlled by vacuum and I would check to see if the main supply under the hood is still connected.
OK - I believe this picture is correct. Now, I would have ASSUMED the rears get a smaller line versus the fronts. That is not the way my 1980 half ton is plumbed and you can not reverse the fittings on the master cylinder- different sizes. I tried and found out. :anitoof:
So - is my stuff...
Stumbled across this post the other day. Can't tell you the pitch but it may help you ID the fan.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f310/radiator-fan-clutch-woes-155571.html#post1866681
Scroll up for the full thread.
Speedi Sleeve on the old axle? Reuse the old seal ? Seems like a lot of work for a bandaid but not sure how to beat a leak without a reseal. I guess no one makes a diff stop leak product. :anitoof: