Some oil is acceptable and normal. It also depends on your crankcase ventilation. If you have a road-draft tube I'd say it's too much, but if it vents to the intake it may be okay. The only way to be 100% sure is to pull the compressor wheel off and look at the back side. If you do that, make...
That's why many of those trucks had a extra load sensing proportioning valve linked to the rear axle. They're not available anymore, but if you can't find a serviceable used one you could probably add a manual adjustable valve for when you're running unloaded.
We replaced the flouescents at the shop with 4 and 8 ft LEDs. The 8 ft were from Home Depot, the 4 ft from SuperbrightlLEDs.com
We did some homework before we decided on what to use in our building. If you use a ballast you're not going to see the kind of significant energy savings an LED is...
This had me scratching my head for a bit, but I think I finally see what is going on here.
That compressor housing IIRC has a two piece design so air on the pressure side can vent back to the inlet side. That's why we're not seeing oil all the way out to the end of the intake like you would...
Not my field, but logic suggests that if there are pumps in the tanks there will be more electrical connections than just the wire for the fuel level sender.
Nothing wrong with that, if you want a locker.
I've regretted every locker I've owned except the Corvette. Sports cars, race cars, off-road,... all great. Most street applications, not so much.
Just be aware of what you're getting in to.
I'd take that apart. Clean it thoroughly and inspect the components. If the ring and pinion are okay, bonus if the bearings survived, I'd just replace the spider gears and put it back together. Doesn't really require special tools other than checking preload and backlash and even those aren't...