A) No idea. I replaced all the existing stuff with new parts the way the old stuff was assembled. B) The new stuff is stock replacement parts and looked just like the old stuff. I don't take wheel cylinders apart to verify size.
I have looked at these and I'm fine with it. I have some questions on the plumbing. Simply add this like you said with no other changes? I can leave the existing plumbing as is?
OK, I did this procedure last night and took it for a test. The rears lock up and the fronts don't, just like before. Any other suggestions? I'm willing to go to an adjustable Wilwood proportioning valve and be done with this factory stuff.
When I do this should my assistant just simply push the pedal down as normal like we do when bleeding, or hit it fast, slow or otherwise? I'll try it this afternoon.
I tested by deliberately locking up the tires with a good strong foot on the pedal, putting it in park, and getting out to see the marks. Only the rears lock up, both of them. The fronts left no rubber on the pavement at all.
Thanks AuroraGirl. I want to experiment by switching the lines at the master. Do you think I can get adapters? If not, I'll have to make new lines, not a big deal if I can't avoid it.
Thanks DoubleDingo. I made all new steel lines for the truck and routed them the same way as it was when I got it. It might have been wrong all along. The guy I bought it from did alot of other questionable things to it.
Thanks Blue Ox. The diagram reminded me I bought the tool that temporarily replaces the warning switch for bleeding purposes. It screwed right in no problem, so I think the valve is centered. I also checked the warning switch with a powered test light and it doesn't light up.