What to Buy?

[theunderlord]

hey gang, long time lurker, first time poster,

My plan is to build a lowered, LS swapped, single Turbo'd 800-1000HP, LWB 2 door square body. I've been looking for the perfect rust free truck to get started, but of course its a needle in a haystack to find a relatively rust free C10. The plan is a complete ground up restoration, swapping damn near of the old parts for new aftermarket stuff, but keeping that glorious square bodyness.

all that crap said, if you were going to replace the rear end, swap the front and rear suspension, do a pro touring style stance, would it even matter what truck you started with? If I found a decent C20 to use as the frame and cab donor vehicle, that would work right?
TIA,

 

[Frankenchevy]

Yes, body and chassis would be fine either way. Only real difference is you are starting with 8-lug spindles and axles. As stated, you are swapping everything else. On a build that extensive, it’s irrelevant.

For that matter, depending on what you can get away with title-wise; just get a custom chassis to slide under the body. Saves you the trouble of trying to adapt modern suspension geo to the stock frame. Last I checked, a rolling chassis was in the neighborhood of $35k.

 

[theunderlord]

Yes, body and chassis would be fine either way. Only real difference is you are starting with 8-lug spindles and axles. As stated, you are swapping everything else. On a build that extensive, it’s irrelevant.

Excellent, thank you man man. You brought up a good point! 8 lug truck wheels have some pretty great options these days, much much more than when these trucks came out.

 

[Frankenchevy]

You can always swap to other lug patterns. I figured you’d be doing aftermarket spindles, axle shafts, etc with a 1000hp pro touring style truck.

That’s not to say you’d have to.

 

[theunderlord]

You can always swap to other lug patterns. I figured you’d be doing aftermarket spindles, axle shafts, etc with a 1000hp pro touring style truck.

Oh for sure, 5x4.75 is my plan, and the most supported lug pattern for the aftermarket spindles/axels in C10 land these days. I was just thinking back to the days when the aftermarket didn't really support rims for 6 and 8 lug. Now that full size trucks, and the AAM 14 bolt FF has become so prevalent, 8 lug is no longer a death sentence for rim choice.

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

Don't 3/4 and 1 tons have a taller and/or thicker frame than half ton frames?
If so, that'd help with strength and rigidity, but it would add a bit of weight to something I'm assuming your looking to make fast and well handling.

 

[Frankenchevy]

Don't 3/4 and 1 tons have a taller and/or thicker frame than half ton frames?
If so, that'd help with strength and rigidity, but it would add a bit of weight to something I'm assuming your looking to make fast and well handling.

The 3/4 tons are slightly thicker, but I’m 99% sure they don’t get taller until it’s a 1-ton.

The frame differences have been posted or linked to a few times in the past.

 

[yevgenievich]

3/4 are slightly thicker and 1 ton dimensions change. As mentioned, get a roadster shop type of chassis and add a cab with title on top. Build from there.

 

[theunderlord]

Thanks guys!

I'm mainly interested in making sure that the majority of suspension upgrades for the C10 would still bolt on to a C20 frame. Looking at swapping the entire rear end out and going to an upgraded D60 and coilover setup in the back, just want to make sure Im not barking up the wrong tree trying to find a nice rust free C20 for the project, as badged C10's are a little harder to come by.

The K10/K20 thread thats stickied up in this forum was a great help, is there one thats specifically for the 2WD trucks?

 

[Grit dog]

I've been looking for the perfect rust free truck to get started, but of course its a needle in a haystack to find a relatively rust free C10.

Welcome!
Where have you been looking? You list your location as Seattle. Rust free squares are fairly common around here, IMO and 2wd trucks are pretty reasonable price if un-restored.
Keep lookin, and yes you can slam a 3/4 ton. Almost seems like a better platform to start with IMO. You get a stout axle, bigger brakes and stiffer front suspension for free.

 

[theunderlord]

Welcome!
Where have you been looking? You list your location as Seattle. Rust free squares are fairly common around here, IMO and 2wd trucks are pretty reasonable price if un-restored.
Keep lookin, and yes you can slam a 3/4 ton. Almost seems like a better platform to start with IMO. You get a stout axle, bigger brakes and stiffer front suspension for free.

Been looking everywhere in the WA/OR/ID area, trying to find something that has as minimal rust as possible, found some good candidates, just have to find the time to go take a look at a couple. I also have this desire in the back of my head to go Dually 2 Door, just as it's not done as much, but I do live in seattle, and I would be pretty worried about people bashing up my dually fenders.

Is there a good amount of Squarebody people in the area, local meets and stuff?

cheers man!

 

[Grit dog]

Been looking everywhere in the WA/OR/ID area, trying to find something that has as minimal rust as possible, found some good candidates, just have to find the time to go take a look at a couple. I also have this desire in the back of my head to go Dually 2 Door, just as it's not done as much, but I do live in seattle, and I would be pretty worried about people bashing up my dually fenders.

Is there a good amount of Squarebody people in the area, local meets and stuff?

cheers man!

Idk, I'm not into clubs and such. But I spend alot of time in Spokane and N Idaho and that place is squarebody central.
They're definitely out there. Generally it seems the wet side trucks are more rust free than east of the Cascades. Although I'd say reg cab 2wd dually is going to be pretty rare if it's not thrashed. I'd probably be looking for a 3/4 ton and some dually adapters and fenders. 800-1000hp, you'll need all the rubber you can get in back!

 

[theunderlord]

Idk, I'm not into clubs and such. But I spend alot of time in Spokane and N Idaho and that place is squarebody central.
They're definitely out there. Generally it seems the wet side trucks are more rust free than east of the Cascades. Although I'd say reg cab 2wd dually is going to be pretty rare if it's not thrashed. I'd probably be looking for a 3/4 ton and some dually adapters and fenders. 800-1000hp, you'll need all the rubber you can get in back!

Totally get that! There's one dually on CL right now thats minimally thrashed, already has the western chassis drop on it, but I dunno, and yeah that's probably the best idea, any truck I get the bed is gonna be pretty hashed, and converting it over to a dually bed with a 295 section width or larger under those tubs!

 

[Bextreme04]

Been looking everywhere in the WA/OR/ID area, trying to find something that has as minimal rust as possible, found some good candidates, just have to find the time to go take a look at a couple. I also have this desire in the back of my head to go Dually 2 Door, just as it's not done as much, but I do live in seattle, and I would be pretty worried about people bashing up my dually fenders.

Is there a good amount of Squarebody people in the area, local meets and stuff?

cheers man!

There is a large community of squares around here for sure. There are a bunch of C10 groups and also "PNW K5 and Squarebodies" is a large facebook group mostly based up by you. Everything between a C10 longbed and C20 are interchangeable. The frame doesn't get thicker unless it a C6P frame and the 1 ton frames are about an inch taller. The front suspension is completely interchangeable between a C10 and C20. The rear suspension has all the same mounting point. I'll try and keep an eye out for a clean longbed 2wd for you, I seem to see them pop up all the time around me down here in Salem. The longbed C20's are everywhere and not very desireable so they are usually pretty cheap.

 

[theunderlord]

There is a large community of squares around here for sure. There are a bunch of C10 groups and also "PNW K5 and Squarebodies" is a large facebook group mostly based up by you. Everything between a C10 longbed and C20 are interchangeable. The frame doesn't get thicker unless it a C6P frame and the 1 ton frames are about an inch taller. The front suspension is completely interchangeable between a C10 and C20. The rear suspension has all the same mounting point. I'll try and keep an eye out for a clean longbed 2wd for you, I seem to see them pop up all the time around me down here in Salem. The longbed C20's are everywhere and not very desireable so they are usually pretty cheap.

For sure! Thank you for the advice! I've said out loud a couple times while searching CL, "damn there are so many of these down in Oregon!".