Want 4 wheel disc have a 14blt FF trying to use as much GM stuff as i can

[stlbob]

I browsed thru here and saw a few threads but most were for the 6 lug set up,with like astro van AWD parts which just wont do for mine.Trying to find someone who has been there done that..

Thanks

 

[crazy4offroad]

I used Offroad Design's brackets...
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/14FFdisckit.htm

And 1/2 ton front calipers, pads and rubber lines. I welded large washers to my top leaf spring plates to mount the rubber lines to. I re-used the wheel studs I removed from the hubs, I know that's supposed to be a no-no but with regular open lug nuts there was plenty of threads to hold. I did not use the larger master cylinder, although I feel if there was any leak it could be a problem. And I don't have a park brake at all now. :/ I did install an adjustable proportion valve from Jegs near the master cylinder to restrict pressure to the rear brakes but I adjusted it to the middle setting (same as if there was no prop valve) and I felt it was set good. Just a little nose-dive on brake, and you can feel the stronger rear braking but with no sliding. It will slide in the dirt a little though but I like it. The stock prop valve is still in place so that may be why I didn't need to fool around much with adjustments. Hope this helps!

Edit: also I did not use any brake backing plates/dust plates, and the rotors were from a k20.

 

[77 K20]

Yes, if you do this I'd recommend going with the Offroad Design caliper brackets. I used the DIY4X brackets. Big mistake. Theirs have bends in them... and either their bending process or welding on them for "strength" warped them/put them out of spec. I couldn't get the 2 sliding bolts (probably a better name- not going to look it up right now) that hold the caliper on to fit. Had to wait for them to ship out a new one.
Now that I've had them for a few years I'm sure I have a similar issue with the driver's side. It will wear down the inner brake pad to nothing in 7,000 miles. The sliding bolts don't quite fit on that side either.
So eventually I'll order the Offroad Design ones and re-do both sides. I hate re-doing things.
I'm running the same rotors and calipers front and rear now ('77 K20). I ordered the Offroad Design kevlar/stainless lines for the rear axle. Figured where I drive I have rocks flying up or sticks/branches getting kicked up and crammed where they shouldn't be.

I re-used the wheel studs also. I'm just running steel wheels so they have a fairly "thin" mounting surface. I suppose some aluminum wheels will be thick enough you won't have many threads won't be sticking out.
I have tried 2 different master cylinders that were made for front/rear disc brakes. Don't care for them much. Bore size is different and seems like there isn't as much pressure to the calipers than the stock master cylinder.
And after buying the front/rear disc brake master cylinder and then buying a front/rear disc combo valve I went for a test drive. INSTANT rear brake lockup on DRY pavement. Everything was properly bled. So then had to order an adjustable proportion valve. I mounted this near the combo valve.