stock height with 31x10.50 wheels

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HotRodPC

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bucket

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88-98 has front indepentant totally different, as for the rear no you cant use that axle, can you kindly explain why you need new axles for your truck when your first question was can I run 31x10.5 im just confused

Original question came about because re-gearing was more expensive than smaller tires. One or two of us pointed out that swapping axles is often much cheaper than re-gearing.

you sure its not a different width?

It IS a different width (if 4x4) which actually makes it desirable because it makes the rear width the same as the front. If you want a stronger 6-lug truck without the narrow rear track, the '88-'98 14bolt semi-floater 6-lug axle is a very nice upgrade.
 

Mmoore031908

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What all is involved with moving the perches and mounts? I have a truck that my father has that's a 95. So I have those axles for free if the mounts and perches aren't to hard to relocate. Thanks for clearing that up andy.
 

bucket

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You need to cut the old mounts off (I do it carefully so I can reuse them rather than buying new) and you have to have a welder strong enough to burn them back on in the correct location.

What rear axle is in the '95?
 

Mmoore031908

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I don't even know I hadn't given it any thought until the conversation came up in the thread today.
 

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you sure its not a different width?

Original question came about because re-gearing was more expensive than smaller tires. One or two of us pointed out that swapping axles is often much cheaper than re-gearing.



It IS a different width (if 4x4) which actually makes it desirable because it makes the rear width the same as the front. If you want a stronger 6-lug truck without the narrow rear track, the '88-'98 14bolt semi-floater 6-lug axle is a very nice upgrade.

What he said !!!

If I had the funds, I'd like to do it on one of mine to keep the 6 lug wheels, and keep the K10 a K10 instead of a K10 wannabe K20.
 

bucket

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What he said !!!

If I had the funds, I'd like to do it on one of mine to keep the 6 lug wheels, and keep the K10 a K10 instead of a K10 wannabe K20.

If a lot of towing is planned, 8 lugs is a nice benefit though. Even though the front uses the same pads, the bigger rotor really helps out. The rear too if a full floater with the giant drums is swapped in. That's why I went with 3/4 axles in the '88 Burb, I wanted a stronger rear axle and bigger brakes for towing. But my '77 K5 really didn't need better brakes, so I went with the 6 lug 14bolt for that one.
 

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By all means, the 8 lug conversion is much better IMO. But for me, I don't need BOTH my K1500 and my K10 to be 8 luggers. I just want one beast and 1 I can afford to drive daily, but still be able to have some mild fun if it happens the one I'm in when the fun the starts.
 

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If you grab a pre 85 14 bolt FF you can swap out your drums to disc brakes for about the same as rebuilding your entire drum brakes.

your drive shaft wont be an issue on any axle swap upgrade with the 4 inch lift

if you swap in that 95 you really need to be careful rewelding those spring perches, if you intend on driving down the highway with it. IMHO your better off buying new perches, for alignment reasons.

That being said you still need to deal with your front axle gearing. so I think your better off just spending some time and hunting down an old donor truck that has both axles you want. and maybe youll get some other usable goodies from your donor truck as well.

once upon a time I found an 80' GM 3/4 ton. cut the entire body off of it with a sawzall. lol after sandblasting and coating the entire frame I swapped over an 86 2wd body, modified the transmission tunnel and cut the front frame to accept the 81-87 bumper and I even moved the engine crossmember back to fit in a 4.3 v6.

the v6 was a bad idea. but it was all very doable. that's what I love about these old trucks, you can make em just about any way you please !

I would love to do that again if I had time and space.
 

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so now that I understand I have to agree that swaping to 8lug is a hella lot cheaper than regearing.

IMO your best bet would be to find a k20 which has a ten bolt front but with 8lug axles and a 14bolt year end
 

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Original question came about because re-gearing was more expensive than smaller tires. One or two of us pointed out that swapping axles is often much cheaper than re-gearing.



It IS a different width (if 4x4) which actually makes it desirable because it makes the rear width the same as the front. If you want a stronger 6-lug truck without the narrow rear track, the '88-'98 14bolt semi-floater 6-lug axle is a very nice upgrade.

this is a great idea, keeps six lug alittle work involved but great idea non the less
 

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Here's a pic of my old blazer
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32x10.50 on 15x10 wheels, no lift. Never had any problems with rubbing..

I agree it would be better/easier to swap axles than mess with the lift... you may even be able to trade your axles for the ones you need
 

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