Sticky right front caliper

[flyboy1100]

Both calipers and hoses are new. But the right front doesnt seem to fully release. The left side has a bit of play in the caliper when the brakes are released, but the right has none ans the brakes are dragging.

I have bled everything including rears. Not sure where else to start looking.

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[flyboy1100]

But maybe that it's correct and the left side is faulty.

Anyone know how much drag there should be?

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[Quadrajet Power]

What makes you think it is dragging? Is the truck pulling while driving, or when applying the brakes?

Reason I ask.
If it pulls when you apply the brakes, then it is probably the rear brakes that need adjusting and fixing.

I got a great deal on a 74 Blazer many years ago because the owner got sick of the brake problems. He had replaced all the calipers and rotors. I just adjusted the rears, fixed the problems and drove it for years without another issue.

 

[flyboy1100]

It pulls right when not using the brakes and a quick 4 block trip at 25mph heated that one to 110f while the drivers side was not quite 60f.

Even with new brakes on it it requires way more force to turn by hand then the drivers does. But the drivers possibly needs more bleeding

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[chengny]

Both calipers and hoses are new

Did this problem exist before you renewed these parts?

If not, I would suspect you got a poorly rebuilt caliper.

There should be no resistance to rotation when the brakes are released. The driver's side is working in what would be considered the proper manner - the RH side is hanging up.

 

[flyboy1100]

Yes, i replaced the right side for this reason, i did the left for the sake of doing things in pairs.

I guess i could just warranty the right one, but since it did it before im a little leary that it is a caliper problem. The old one was binding on the pins, the new one moves smoothly

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[flyboy1100]

Any other thoughts on why it would be sticking?

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[chengny]

First, determine if the problem is hydraulic or mechanical.

To check whether there is a problem with the hydraulic pressure being released (when the brake pedal is not applied):

Have the affected wheel up off the ground. Apply the brakes a few times as normal.

Open the bleeder at the caliper. If the brake is hydraulically locked up, opening the bleeder valve will release any residual pressure being held in the line by a faulty hose or master-cylinder. As soon as the bleeder is open, the wheel should spin freely.

HINT: If the problem is hydraulic, you will also notice a short, violent burst of pressurized brake fluid issue from the bleeder (if you open it quickly - don't ease it open).


If the brake remains locked up, inspect the caliper piston and slides for seizing or binding.

 

[flyboy1100]

Thanks, will do

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[flyboy1100]

Doesn't appear to be retaining pressure. There is still quite a bit of air coming out the left front. Either 2 crappy remans (I'm on my 2nd) or air is getting in elsewhere, but it is only that wheel.

The right still drags at least double what the left side does.

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[flyboy1100]

Attempting to build a pressure bleeder cap for my motive bleeder today, maybe i can either get the brakes bleed or make it leak if it is sucking air somewhere.

Tomorrow i will bleed and pull calipers again to see if the right one moves freely

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[flyboy1100]

Pressure bleeder leaks at the top, the official one probably would too. Darn.

Going to take calipers off this afternoon

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[flyboy1100]

caliper off. i think i have the wheel bearings tighter than the drivers side......will fix that tomorrow.

 

[flyboy1100]

Pin on the inner spindle nut sheered off..... A lot of wasted time thinking it was the brake. Argh

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[89Suburban]

Pin on the inner spindle nut sheered off..... A lot of wasted time thinking it was the brake. Argh

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No ****? So what happened was the wheel bearings too tight?