Sagging leaf replacement

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mktsc

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First post. I have an '87 base model C-10 stepside. It's been in the family since new, I learned how to drive on it when I was 14, and I inherited it when my uncle passed away. He took great care of it, maintained it like a piece of farm machinery (coated everything in grease so it wouldn't rust), and I have every receipt since new. Since this is a vehicle that will eventually end up going to my kids, I want to fix what needs fixed, and turn it into a cool driver that my whole family can enjoy for years to come.

It has a nasty lean to it. Drivers side sits a good 2"-3" lower than the passenger side.

I'm getting ready to install a Belltech 4/6 drop, and want to replace the leafs so the truck sits level again.

I'm looking on NPD and LMC and several spring rates are available. I want to make sure I order the right spring. I'm wondering if I can get spring rate from my RPO code? I can get 5+1 leaves with multiple spring rates.

Most I'll ever haul is about 500lbs of motorcycle, so I'd still like some utility out of the truck without bottoming the lowered suspension. However I don't want the truck to sit too high in the rear because I ordered a stiffer spring.

I was hoping you guys would be able to guide me to the right spring.

Thanks in advance,

-Matt

Passenger side:
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Drivers side:
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bucket

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Surprised I haven't seen you around town, we have similar trucks.

I'd get springs that are a lower spring rate. Even the lightest optioned C10 is perfectly capable of lugging 500 lbs around.
 

mktsc

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Thanks for the info. I'm leaning towards the softer springs as well.

I'm finding them from Dayton and Eaton Detroit. LMC Truck also has some that are much cheaper ($140/leaf as opposed to $200-250/leaf).

I'm leaning towards the pricier ones from Eaton Detroit on NPD, but wouldn't mind saving a few hundred bucks if I can. Thoughts?

Hope to see you around town!

-MK
 
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Nice truck... maybe coil overs for the rear?
Easy to adjust
 

mktsc

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Thanks for the compliment. Don't want to get too fancy with coilovers just yet. Once I get it sitting right I'm planning a longer term drivetrain swap with a more modern LS series engine, and 14 bolt rear end. Until I swap the rear, I don't want to modify the suspension too much.

Probably going to go with the least number of leaves and highest spring rate. With new springs and an axle flip in the rear, I'm going to see if I can NOT install the c-notch. Based on some posts by J Knight, I should be able to get away with it. That way I should be able to still use it to haul bikes in the bed, and not have to cut the frame up. I'll do it if I have to, but I want to try without at first.
 

bucket

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What area of town are you in? I'm southwest of Columbus a little ways, but worked for years in the north end of town. Been in VA all winter though.
 

mktsc

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I'm in Westerville (NE Columbus)
 

bucket

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Geektrucker

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mktsc

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So my squarebody isn't the only one that's sagged?

I've never seen a truck sag this bad side to side. I had a '73 F100 that sagged a bit, but it's seriously a 3" difference with this truck...
 

Geektrucker

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This was mine before the new leaf...PO had ran around without shocks and only the main carrier spring as a redneck lowering attempt. It was off by almost 3"

Sent from the back woods of Maine via skiddah, cah, and a wicked pissah squarebody
 

mktsc

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Looks just like mine. I can't look at the truck without going into an OCD rage.

Glad to hear leafs will correct it. That and the Belltech drop will have this thing looking proper.
 

Geektrucker

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So I got around to finally getting my 3" lowering springs in the front, with new upper ball joints. Took it to the alignment shop today, both sides are over an inch in on camber. The problem is, I've already got a huge stack of spacers in ther already and only about 3/4" of threads showing on bolts.

Suggestions on how to get it at least close to aligned? Its already chewed off the inside tread to the first sip in a week.

I've picked up a shim kit to get what I can, but think it'd be better to get longer mount bolts. My concern is how many is too many shims? Is there a better solution?

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Sent from my LGUS991 using Tapatalk
 

J Knight

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So I got around to finally getting my 3" lowering springs in the front, with new upper ball joints. Took it to the alignment shop today, both sides are over an inch in on camber. The problem is, I've already got a huge stack of spacers in ther already and only about 3/4" of threads showing on bolts.

Suggestions on how to get it at least close to aligned? Its already chewed off the inside tread to the first sip in a week.

I've picked up a shim kit to get what I can, but think it'd be better to get longer mount bolts. My concern is how many is too many shims? Is there a better solution?

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Sent from my LGUS991 using Tapatalk
This is a prime example of why a spring drop of more than 2in-2.5in is not recommended. 95% of the time 3in of spring drop doesn't leave enough bolt to set the camber as well as the coil spring will usually fall over in the spring pocket whenever you lift the truck of the ground. Putting in longer bolts for alignment isn't as easy as it sounds, the stock alignment bolts are splined, so adding longer hex bolts don't fit like they should inside the concave bolt hole/pocket. If there are longer splined alignment bolts available, I am not aware of it.

The correct way to do a 3in drop is with a 3in drop spindle or 2.5in drop spindle with a 1in drop spring.

Another cheap and easy fix is to remove the 3in drop springs and cut 1 round off the bottom of your stock coil springs for a 2in-2.25in sping drop, you will be able to align it then. The pic below is lowered in the front with cut stock springs.
 

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Geektrucker

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My apologies to the OP for highjacking his thread (and sweet step side).

Perhaps an admin could move it to the proper thread (As a new topic perhaps?)
 

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