Replacement ignition switch actuator rack

[Stevie C]

Hey guys, I'm new to the Forum.

I've got a 76' C10 stepside 454 trailering special here in Australia.

I have a question about replacing my broken ignition actuator rack. It's got a tilt column.

The Dorman kit 83211 is readily available (although it will take a week or two to get here from the US) but it looks different to my rack. Mine has 7 teeth as opposed to the 6 teeth on the Dorman kit & I can't seem to find a replacement 7 tooth item.

Does anyone know if I can retrofit the 83211 kit if I swap over the toothed drive gear as well? My main concern is that the 6 tooth rack might be a different length and wont hook into my steering column switch linkage.

I've attached a picture of my broken one for reference.

I've made enquires about 3D printing one. Also thinking I may be able to get a brazing repair by a specialist.

Any information would greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Steve C

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Charlie]

 

[bucket]

Can't say I've ever counted the teeth on them to know if they are all the same through the years. A solder/braze repair may work fine?

 

[75gmck25]

I have a '75 with tilt column, and when I needed an ignition rack I just went into the parts store and got whatever was in stock. It was probably a Dorman, or Help! brand, and it worked fine. Maybe the number of teeth is not that significant. I also had a problem with the emergency flasher switch, so I replaced that assembly at the same time.

Breaking the column down enough to replace that little rack was a real PIA. None of the steps are particularly hard, but it still took a while. I was lucky and got the steering wheel off without renting a puller (make sure you mark the alignment), and then I made my own lock plate remover to get that apart. Pay close attention to how the horn button goes back on and the order of the insulating parts, or its easy to end up with a horn that doesn't work, or blows all the time.

I also used locktite on the screws when I put the column assembly back together, since is common to have them loosen up over time if you use the wheel as a grab bar for getting into the truck.

Bruce

 

[Stevie C]

Just a follow up on this.. As suggested I fitted the commonly available Dorman kit 83211.

I had to swap over the sector gear as well as the rack for it all to fit together but it's working fine again now.

So for future reference the discontinued 7tooth rack/6tooth sector can be straight swapped with he 6tooth rack/5 tooth sector kit, no problems at all.

Just a little tip for anyone who feels like they are having to twist their key a bit too far to get their truck to crank, the actual switch itself has elongated holes where it mounts to the steering column. If you back off the small retaining bolts you can slide the position of the switch so you don't have to reef so hard on your key to get the engine to crank.

I'm pretty sure that's what the root cause of my problem was. Now that I've adjusted my switch position it feels perfect, whereas previously it felt like I was stressing the entire linkage literally to breaking point when cranking.

I also locktited the 4 torx bolts, which I was glad I did as they came undone pretty easy..I guess I would have been getting a wobbly steering wheel soon.

Cheers
Steve C

 

[scubacarib]

Just a follow up on this.. As suggested I fitted the commonly available Dorman kit 83211.

I had to swap over the sector gear as well as the rack for it all to fit together but it's working fine again now.

So for future reference the discontinued 7tooth rack/6tooth sector can be straight swapped with he 6tooth rack/5 tooth sector kit, no problems at all.

Just a little tip for anyone who feels like they are having to twist their key a bit too far to get their truck to crank, the actual switch itself has elongated holes where it mounts to the steering column. If you back off the small retaining bolts you can slide the position of the switch so you don't have to reef so hard on your key to get the engine to crank.

I'm pretty sure that's what the root cause of my problem was. Now that I've adjusted my switch position it feels perfect, whereas previously it felt like I was stressing the entire linkage literally to breaking point when cranking.

I also locktited the 4 torx bolts, which I was glad I did as they came undone pretty easy..I guess I would have been getting a wobbly steering wheel soon.

Cheers
Steve C

I just looked dorman 83211 on amazon they say it won't fit my 1976 chevy c 10 but it looks like it would. mine has a plastic gear that is striped and tilt steering any help appreciated

 

[75gmck25]

The Dorman kit worked for my ‘75 GMC tilt column when I swapped all the parts (sector gear and rack). I was living in San Antonio at the time and they stocked it at Advance Auto Parts.

Before you pull the steering wheel, mark the wheel hub and the shaft for future alignment. It helps a lot for getting the wheel back on in the correct orientation if you have a 4WD. I believe correct orientation to make turn signals cancel correctly is more obvious on a 2WD.

Be prepared for a PIA disassembly of the entire upper steering column. IIRC I rented/borrowed at least one of the tools from the parts store, but later on I made my own lock plate remover. After the first time I broke it loose I didn’t need a steering wheel puller (just yank hard). There are a couple good videos and diagrams out on the net and I just followed them.

The other weird thing I found is that once I replaced the cab bushings, the steering wheel lock and key mechanism worked even better. When you move the cab up higher (new poly bushings under it), the neutral safety switch on the column mechanism goes back into alignment, and the NSS aligns to let it start in both neutral and park.