Put '86 k10 on '87 c10 frame?

[richiemoe]

I have an '86 Chevy k10 short box. If I buy an '87 gmc c10 short box, I assume most of the parts are interchangeable? Are the frames the same? I assume some tinkering would be needed since mine is 4x4?

But for the most part, should i buy the '87 as a donor vehicle for the frame and box?

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

You have to consider the front suspension differences on the two, which are two independent designs. It’s not like the newer IFS 4x4s that have a shared heritage between chassis setups. I’m sure it’s doable within reason if you have time and good fab skills, but I know it’s a good bit of work getting a C10 frame to the bare skeleton and starting over with a different chassis template. I’d say it’s not worth it. Is your frame rusting? If your big plans have to do with the frame, I’d pass on that one and wait for a K frame to come along or repair yours. That’s just me, though.

 

[richiemoe]

There is a rear crossmember under the bed of my k10 frame, that needs replacing/weld work. My frame might be fine, I'm just nervous that it may be thin from rust layers? I'm not sure of the gauge thickness that the frame should be...

The hardest part I'm finding, is finding a short box frame. I'd like to keep my frame and cab, then buy replacement door shells, fix the frame, find a donor box and have the cab corners replaced. But that will cost a bit... if I can find a good donor vehicle for under $2,000 I might go that route... if I can just stop the rust for now, I can save up and restore it in the years to come. I feel like it is a race against time...

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I gotcha. I think that the frames on these trucks are pretty tough in most places, and it would take a good amount of rust to compromise their integrity. Of course, I’ve never witnessed first-handedly rust belt level carnage so I’m not qualified to speculate a whole lot. I’d say SWB K-frames are the rarest ones so no argument there. Pictures might be worth sharing about your areas of concern on the frame, and others who have been in your shoes can chime in on specifics. I’m certain that just about everyone is going to echo what I said on the merits of trying to turn a C-frame into a K-frame. Your potential donor maybe worth while but at the right price and for other parts besides the frame like the bed and even a cab swap if you dig in more and find that your cab is worse than you thought.

 

[richiemoe]

I gotcha. I think that the frames on these trucks are pretty tough in most places, and it would take a good amount of rust to compromise their integrity. Of course, I’ve never witnessed first-handedly rust belt level carnage so I’m not qualified to speculate a whole lot. I’d say SWB K-frames are the rarest ones so no argument there. Pictures might be worth sharing about your areas of concern on the frame, and others who have been in your shoes can chime in on specifics. I’m certain that just about everyone is going to echo what I said on the merits of trying to turn a C-frame into a K-frame. Your potential donor maybe worth while but at the right price and for other parts besides the frame like the bed and even a cab swap if you dig in more and find that your cab is worse than you thought.

From what i can see, it looks like the the really only bad spot is on the very rear of the truck frame. Right behind the cab looks good. In the picture, there is a LOT of rust that fell from the bed, but overall, the frame looks decent to me. I'm still going to sandblast the whole thing, patch it and coat it very well. Plus, the truck won't touch winter/salted roads ever again. And the most performance I plan on doing is the LS swap, but the most i'll probably get out of it is 400-450hp. If i go more, and that is a big IF, i'd re-enforce the frame at that point.... But the LS swap is about 5-10 years from now... Maybe it wouldn't hurt to weld in some bars, since the frame is C shaped?

If possible, i'd like to keep this frame. But if i find a great deal, i think it would be dumb not to... The guy who i was going to buy the frame originally said it was a shortbox. And the angle of the picture kind of looked like it. Then he sent a few more pictures and it was obviously a long box... I see those EVERYWHERE. Short boxes, not so much...

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Crispy]

That frame is pure Michigan!

From what I've read 2wd to 4wd conversions are a pain in the ass but if you have the space and tools then go for it. Is staring over an option? Like trying to find a nice west coast truck and have it shipped over?

I dont want to seem like a downer but rust never sleeps. If you listen real careful you can hear it eating metal, hell I scrolled back up to look at the pics and saw a new spot on the frame. I think that unless your truck has sentimental value the time and money involved in fixing it would be better spent finding a clean example.

 

[richiemoe]

The truck definitely has sentimental value to it. My dad bought it with my grandma's GM discount the year i was born. So i rode around in that truck growing up. Since then my parents split up and this is one of the few things i have left with good memories. Even sitting in the cab listening to the clock make that funky noise puts a smile on my face.

I also love working on this type of stuff. And while restoring in steps, i can pay cash along the way. And i'm in the process of fixing the frame/body on my wife's '95 wrangler. And i have an almost 9 week old daughter that i'd love for her to see and help restore grandpa's old truck, as she grows up.

As of now, the plan is:
1. Buy new door shells (Brothertrucks has complete shells for $379 each or get cheaper foreign stamped ones for $152 each?)
2. Take the cab off the frame and my buddy will fix the rocker panels and cab corners for about $1,000-$1,200. But he wants the new doors on first, to make sure they don't rub. The current doors have rust on the bottom...
3. While the cab is off, sandblast the fame, weld in patches and truck bed liner it as much as i can.
4. Find a replacement short box, already have the tailgate.
5. Put the cab back on, maybe with a 1" body lift.
6. Replace the stock suspension with 1.5" lift.
7. Save up for amazing paint job or start upgrading the drive-train. Long term projects.
Mainly, i feel like i'm at a race against time to stop the rust. Then i can slow down a bit...

 

[Crispy]

I can certainly respect that. I would keep it also! If you aren't currently driving it, get a cutoff wheel and cut out as much rust as you can on the body. Grind whatever else you can to bare metal. The spray any bare metal with primer.

Keep an eye out on craigslist for part outs. You may be lucky and find a set of original doors that need very little repair. If you're willing to drive, you may find some in Kentucky. That would be my mode of attack.

You are definitely fighting the clock with rust but don't get too caught up on it as most of the damage is already done.

 

[richiemoe]

I can certainly respect that. I would keep it also! If you aren't currently driving it, get a cutoff wheel and cut out as much rust as you can on the body. Grind whatever else you can to bare metal. The spray any bare metal with primer.

Keep an eye out on craigslist for part outs. You may be lucky and find a set of original doors that need very little repair. If you're willing to drive, you may find some in Kentucky. That would be my mode of attack.

You are definitely fighting the clock with rust but don't get too caught up on it as most of the damage is already done.

I was going to take the truck in and fix the cab asap! But, my buddy (owns a multiple shops and does professional restorations) said to buy the doors first. So that part is setting me back. He also said it would save money if i can have the areas that need fixing sandblasted first and if i take the cab off the truck. I have an '97 2wd F150 that i can sell and will pay for most of the repairs, but now that i need the doors first, that is making my small budget a little more difficult. Also, my wife and i are paying off student loans so she can stay home with our daughter. Right now might not be the best time to fix up the truck, but i'm trying to figure out ways to do both... Otherwise, i can easily get this fixed up by this time next year...

I haven't looked in Kentucky much. I have started looking around different areas on craigslist, different websites and using different keywords, which has helped. Excited to get this truck up and running though!!! It only has the 4.3L, but it runs like a champ!!

Thanks for your input!!!

 

[yevgenievich]

Donor truck from south would be nice, but within last couple of months every short k truck has doubled asking price. It might actually be easier to get a parts chassis that is long wheel base and cut/splice the frame, or go with that 2wd and modify the front to fit 4wd components. There are clean used door shells regulary come up for less than $100 each in southern states, even with shipping likely to be a better choice than the new ones from brothers. Also look for mud trucks, their bodies are beat and gutted bringing the value down, but that frame might be good if was not too abused.

 

[richiemoe]

Donor truck from south would be nice, but within last couple of months every short k truck has doubled asking price. It might actually be easier to get a parts chassis that is long wheel base and cut/splice the frame, or go with that 2wd and modify the front to fit 4wd components. There are clean used door shells regulary come up for less than $100 each in southern states, even with shipping likely to be a better choice than the new ones from brothers. Also look for mud trucks, their bodies are beat and gutted bringing the value down, but that frame might be good if was not too abused.

Yes, good call! Once i get the doors, i can get the cab fixed. When i first saw complete shell's for $152, i was going to go with those. But since then, i've read that they will rust pretty quick. So if i go new, i should get the more expensive ones. Although, if i can find some good southern ones, that would be great as well! I have seen box prices go up a LOT. I mean, i'll save up and have to pay, but i'm more nervous of not being able to find a good donor short box, without buying a full truck..... Maybe that is just a fear and is unlikely, who knows.... Too bad they don't re-manufacture the truck beds as well.... :-(

 

[yevgenievich]

There are aftermarket bed sides and floors. Keep checking things for sale and can likely get a frame to use as a donor or replacement.

Yes, good call! Once i get the doors, i can get the cab fixed. When i first saw complete shell's for $152, i was going to go with those. But since then, i've read that they will rust pretty quick. So if i go new, i should get the more expensive ones. Although, if i can find some good southern ones, that would be great as well! I have seen box prices go up a LOT. I mean, i'll save up and have to pay, but i'm more nervous of not being able to find a good donor short box, without buying a full truck..... Maybe that is just a fear and is unlikely, who knows.... Too bad they don't re-manufacture the truck beds as well.... :-(

 

[roundhouse]

Bring a trailer and some cash to the south or southwest and get a rustfree shortbed K10

We bought one in AZ for $1600 that ran and drove , barely
But it doesn’t have a spec of rust on it

 

[richiemoe]

Bring a trailer and some cash to the south or southwest and get a rustfree shortbed K10

We bought one in AZ for $1600 that ran and drove , barely
But it doesn’t have a spec of rust on it

Good to know, thank you!
The craigslist app on my phone is funky, but i'll start searching around the south. Shipping costs aren't too bad if i'm not in a hurry for it. I live in Michigan, it is a little bit of a drive down south...

 

[roundhouse]

You’ll spend a lot less time driving than you will trying to fix a lot of rust

But the truck you have doesn’t sound too bad
Cab corners are rusted on every Chevy unless it spent its entire life in the desert

Buy a $500 welder and do it yourself

If it’s just one crossmember that’s rusted that should be an easy bolt in fix


If it’s a sentimental vehicle that’s been in the family a while , I’d Probabaly spend more time fixing it than swapping it out


Shoot a couple of years ago I took a 80 shortbed K10 to the crusher

Cab floor and rockers and corners was rusted bad but the frame was good

Advertised it for $200 on CL for a
Month . Only one call and he flakes out on the day he was supposed to pick it up so I just said screw it and took it to the crusher
City was on my case about having a non operable vehicle so it had to be gone

We bought it for the axles


I did cut off the last 16 inches of the bed and the back of the cab to make a headboard and footboard for my sons bed


On CL you need to check off all the surrounding towns
And select it to show the newest ads first

Once you learn which surrounding towns are listed
You can pick out three or four Spread out and see almost the entire south west in a couple of clicks

When you click on nearby cities wait for it to load
Then click on the options Gear icon again
And it will list a lot more towns you can select by checking the box

CL doesn’t want people to look beyond their own town so they make it hard to do


If you want to look in Dixie , you can look at Birminham Alabama and select all
The surrounding towns listed and it will cover almost the entire southeast

There are also apps that you can plug in keywords and it will text you instantly when an ad with those words is posted


I wouldn’t trust the seller describing it

You need to get a nearby site member to take a look at it before you buy it




Keep an eye on eBay

There may be one that pops up not too far away