Over a Year and still not done:(

[rscustomrods]

Well my youngest daughter will be 17 in November and I tried to finish this truck for her 16th birthday. I did a frame off restoration and I am not a mechanic. I have always been mechanically inclined and anything I take apart I can put back together. I have this truck completely back together and painted. I have a 350 in it, vortec heads and cam, serpentine system, with a turbo 400 transmission and np205 transfer case. I have 3/4 ton axles underneath it and 373 gears. I feel like I am 90 percent done, but the wiring is absolutely kicking my ass. I don't know enough about wiring to even get the starter hooked up to the right wires. I work 5-6 days a week in law enforcement, coach high school softball 6 days a week, and still try and find time to work on this truck. My daughter is an amazing young lady who demonstrates character, integrity, and about every other quality you could ask for in a child. She has never once complained about the delay in this project. I have to find a way to finish this truck before this November. I am planning to take a week off of work next week and really go for the finish line, but I dont want to fail.

Many of you have been very helpful along the way with this project. I apologize that I have not been able to contribute as much to this site as I would like. Other than really just needing to vent, can anyone recommend a source for wiring harnesses for dummies?? My harness is all there and relatively uncut. Any suggestions on how to get this done will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Guys.

 

[Scorpion]

First, hang in there. Projects of that magnitude take (1) time, (2) longer than planned, and (3) are worth it in the long run. Mine is at nearly 2 years and I'm nowhere near as done as you. I also coach year round and that commitment is probably a bigger deal to your kid(s), and other kids, so try to maintain perspective. As my wife reminds me from time to time, it's only a truck. Looking back in a dozen years there will be a greater value put on the many nights on the field (by you and your daughter) and the trips to and from it than the time spent in garage though it sounds like you'll manage both anyway.

As for the project, what year are you working on? Did you tackle a full wiring harness or are you working on a specific part of the harness? Do you have a schematic (color coded map of the electrical system) for the truck? It may help us help you if we understand where you are. Have you pulled the dash or are you doing allow it on your back?

Simple tricks like having the right tools and supplies can also make a world of a difference. Are you attempting to make connections using the twist and tape approach, a hand crimper, ratcheting crimper, or other means? In my experience spending a little extra money on some tools can speed up the process, improve the end result, and make the process easier.

May be worth me adding that a day off sometimes helps more than another day at it. I realize nothing gets done when the lights are off but the rest can sometimes clear the head and allow more progress more quickly. Trying to balance work, family, and project can sometimes take its toll and little recharge may just be a part of the answer.

 

[chengny]

Try - as hard as you can - to keep the original wiring harness. It will be the easiest way to re-wire.

If you think re-connecting an OEM harness is a struggle...installing an aftermarket setup will kill you.

And, from what I see above, you apparently are attempting to keep the truck pretty much stock.


Spread the harness out on the garage floor. Break the project down by components.

The wires in the harness are pretty much cut to length so (as an extreme example), the wires for the oil pressure senders couldn't be mistaken for the horn power leads.

Go to the junkyards and observe, also bring a notebook and a camera.


Not to over simplify but my truck has less than 10 wires going to the engine. Three for oil pressure sensing, 2 to the alternator, 2 to the distributor, 1 coolant temp sender, 1 to the choke heater.

I am sure someone here (with a truck similar to yours) will provide images. That, and every wiring diagram you could need is available. For starters:

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Remember you only have to deal with the ends of the wires - the bulk of the wiring is still inside the harness right?

 

[HotRodPC]

Don't feel bad about not being done in a year. I've hardly got anything done to mine in 3 years. Life happens !!! Damn sure not because I didn't want to.

I too agree with Chengny about trying to keep OEM original harnesses as much as possible. Not only for ease of installation, but later on down the road if you have issues, then it's all OEM that is just like everyone elses and you're more likely to get help or find diagrams, where as if you do some custom or aftermarket job, who knows what you'd end up with.

Does sound like it's going to be a nice truck when done. Just stick with it. Baby steps is better than no steps, and soon you'll realize it's gaining speed on the progress and the closer it gets to done the more motivated you become. That's the way it is for me anyway.

 

[MrMarty51]

Did You do any type of fuel injection to the engine/transmission, for speed sensor ???
if so, there are a couple of people in here that sort of specialize in making wire harnesses for these systems, quite painless.
Jims86 and I think onelucky pops might be the other.
Check with them.
Yes, on taking some of "Your Time, to You, "ME" time, with Your daughter, go fishing, a nice scenic hike, shoot some bow and arrow, and since You are in Law Enforcement, avoid the shooting range, You probably already get enough of that.
Come back with a clear head and, a couple more items will seem to make sense.

 

[rscustomrods]

Thanks guys. I appreciate it. The truck is a 1978 with the original wiring harness. I actually switched to the DIY4x custom dash and all new autometer gauges. I am using crimping tools, as opposed to soldering every wire, but will solder if I think it is needed. I bleieve I have the right tools and supplies for the job, just do not have a color schematic and am trying to work of images like the ones supplied on this thread.

Everyone made really valid points and am am thankful for your time. I will check back in after the weekend and let you guys know where I am at.

Thanks again.

Rich

 

[rscustomrods]

My truck has no purple wire! This is supposed to be the wire that goes to the "S" post on the starter. Any chance it could be tan?? Based on ever fiagram I have seen, this tan wire looks to be where the purple should be. it is uncut from the fusebox panel so I am assuming it is it. Any thoughs are appreciated. Also, to all of you that have helped me, if you guys are looking for any parts, I used three trucks to build this one. I have alot of leftover stuff. I have gotten rid of alot of it locally, but if you need something that is worth shipping, please email me at [email protected] and I will send it to you.

Thanks,

rich

 

[rscustomrods]

also, I don't know how to up people's rep, but Jerry from NH, you are brilliant sir. I have seen many of your threads and you are a wealth of knowledge.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

That he is.

 

[chengny]

Aw shucks & thanks.

But you know what they say - It takes a thousand "atta boys" to make up for one "Oh sh*t".


The start wire coming out of the ignition switch is purple/white. It runs down inside the column casing, leads out and then heads down to the neutral safety switch (mounted on the bottom of the steering column close to the fire wall).

At the neutral safety switch it changes color. Feed in is purple/white and switched out is plain purple. That is the way any schematic I have seen shows the wire colors.

If you see a purple coming out of the neutral switch try to trace it up to the wiring gland at the firewall. If it is still purple on the cabin side of the gland - look again at all the wires coming out of the gland on the engine side.

There should be 3 tan wires leading out. They go to:

1. The brake pressure switch
2. The H/L low beams
3. The fuel tank level sender or oil pressure switch


If there is an extra tan wire - and you really think that one of them is from the ignition switch start position - test it.

It doesn't sound like you are at the point where you can test for voltage so do a continuity check.

Pull the purple wire off the neutral switch and ground it securely to the frame/body with a jumper. When you have that end of the purple wire grounded, go to the engine side of the firewall.

Then, using a multimeter, connect one probe to the tan wire (the one you think might be from the ignition/neutral switch or each tan hone by one). Touch the other probe to a good ground.

If you get a beep or show 0 ohms - that is the lead that goes to the "S" terminal on the solenoid.

Here is a more detailed and accurate wiring diagram (specifically for 1978 C/K 10,20,30 light trucks):

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[rscustomrods]

I have purple to the inside fuse box, but no purple coming out in the engine bay. I don't have any cut wires so I am stumped. Electrical is my weakness, not that my strengths are much better. I am stumped

 

[89Suburban]

I have purple to the inside fuse box, but no purple coming out in the engine bay. I don't have any cut wires so I am stumped. Electrical is my weakness, not that my strengths are much better. I am stumped

That's nuts. Only thing you can do now is ohms test it like mentioned or match the pin out numbers on the bulkhead connector ans see what color it is coming out.

 

[chengny]

Per 89Suburban - or match the pin out numbers on the bulkhead connector ans see what color it is coming out.

On the engine side of the firewall, it looks like the purple wire should emerge from the fuse block gland as shown below (i.e. center slot, second row down):

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[89Suburban]

Now I do have to say that on my '89's engine side firewall bulkhead connector it is sealed so you can not see where the wires connect to certain pins. I don't know if this is something they did for all years or not. Anybody concur?

 

[chengny]

This is how it looks on a 1986. The wiring diagram shows the block 90 degrees CW from the way it really mounts on the firewall: