my brake bleeding problem, on a gmt400 tho.

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crazy4offroad

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Your luck with brakes sounds as bad as mine with this trans! One thing about it, when you learn how to do everything wrong on something the only thing left is how to do it right! Get the manager out at the parts store tomorrow and bitch him out real good about the screw up on the lines, it'll make you feel better and light a fire under your ass! :grd:
 

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I switched the lines and tried again, still no luck, tore the whole thing apart rigged the MC section that usually does the front to work the back, doing this removed the prop. valve, and made the rear bleed good, well some, not perfect, but at first we couldn't get anything to work out back.

I blew the lines clear yesterday thru the prop rear section and all.

The line near the tank was changed before at some point, and doesn't look bad at all, no rust on it and crap. I tore the prop valve apart, figured out you can push the valve in more with a small pointy thing. So may try that crap.

I've came to a decision and conclusion on it tho, first of oct. the plate sticker goes dead, and the inspection sticker by the end of oct. so if it's not fixed by the first of oct. it's gone.
 

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:sad72:
 

crazy4offroad

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Wish I could get down there to give ya a hand. Sometimes you gotta bleed them the best you can then take the truck out somewhere and do like emergency braking tests of the pedal. Get it rolling 10 or 15 mph and plow the brakes. If there's any loops in the lines this will sometimes dislodge the air pocket and get them to bleed. I'm having trouble with mine pulling left when braking now, as of today.
 

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just an update....

never fixed this.

ran out of money getting junk for this place to fix it up some. Going to buy a master cylinder for this and try that. probably won't be til next month since my budget this month is blown lol.
 

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I know the feeling about the budget deal, and hopefully that'll fix it. :waytogo:
 

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it better LOL.

if not I'm buying the prop valve tool to try and if that fails another prop valve is in order.
 

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Glad to hear you're not giving up! :cheers: I didnt give up on the TH350, and finally got that bitch lined out lol.
 

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welp think I'm going to give up.

new mc and this POS still does the same crap.

Might order a prop valve and try it, and if that fails then it's going to be sold for sure.
 

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this turd is gonna go up for sale this weekend.

I changed prop valves to a known good working one, rebled several ways, found the fitting had a score in it, changed it, rebled, still not good. I got half pedal with the truck off, with it running it's gonna be worse I know.
 

crazy4offroad

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Cant believe you're giving up after all you've done to it! Are you gonna finish painting it first at least?
 

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no way. why would I dump more money into it that I dont have.

If they want it painted they can do it. I'll sell them the paint for it.

I'm already taking a beating on it to sell it with everything new, but if I can't fix it I'm not having it. I refuse to pay anyone to fix it for me, because like I said if I can't fix it I don't need it. Brakes aint right so I do not trust it.

The for sale sign aint on it yet, but it's the very next step. So it doesn't have much longer for me to try and fix it.
 

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no way. why would I dump more money into it that I dont have.

If they want it painted they can do it. I'll sell them the paint for it.

I'm already taking a beating on it to sell it with everything new, but if I can't fix it I'm not having it. I refuse to pay anyone to fix it for me, because like I said if I can't fix it I don't need it. Brakes aint right so I do not trust it.

The for sale sign aint on it yet, but it's the very next step. So it doesn't have much longer for me to try and fix it.

I don't know if I asked you this or not, did you check the rear brake line where it is hidden behind the fuel tank?
 

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I can blow thru the entire line with a compressor and have great pressure come out, so that should all be fine. The rear lines across the rear end I changed.

new parking brake cables, shoes are not very old and well over half a shoe left, adjusted out tight to the drums, new wheel cylinders, one is brand new, the other only a couple years old. Calipers are only a couple years old, pads are well over half, front flex hoses are brand new, rear flex hose is clear I blew thru it as well every direction possible, MC is now new, and prop. valve is good from a known working truck.

I can hit the brakes and the pedal travel halfway down, get somewhat firm, but you can force it down another inch or so, to make it about 3/4 down. When you hit it once then let up and go again it will only go halfway down and be rock hard.

The rear lines plugged off at the MC the pedal only travels an inch if that and is rock hard. it's in the rear setup for sure, has to be.

Applying the park brake and trying the pedal makes little ro no difference in travel or feel as well.

I have one last thing to try, fire it up, see if they hit the floor and set the light, if so it's junk, and most likely going up for sale this weekend. if not then it may have a chance left. That chance will be backing up several times and stomping it, then rebleed, maybe drive some and stomp and rebledd, if nothing changes then either leave it and run it, or sell it. I NEED a truck for moving and hauling crap, and right now I have none. So if I can't get it fixed I need money to use other ppl's trucks and put gas in them, or buy another for myself and put gas into it, plus title change, plate transfer all that crap.

IF I buy myself another, it's going to be a squarebody, either a s-dime or fullsize. I got a buddy right now would die to trade me his s dime for it, but I'd really go in the hole and he thinks his is worth $3500 when it's no where near it. I think mines worth that much too, but that is what I'd ask or 3k, then let them talk it down some. I wouldn't let it go for less then $2500 or bare min. or 2k, and that would most liekly mean I change all my aftermarket stuff back to stock. Lights, steps, roll bar, bull bar, shift knobs, basically strip it. Even keep my cowl hood for 2k price. I still got the stock one. Tehen I'll sell the aftermarket stuff.
 

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I can blow thru the entire line with a compressor and have great pressure come out, so that should all be fine. The rear lines across the rear end I changed.
.

I forgot to mention this earlier but that rear line along the fuel tank in the frame rail, they are known to rust and corrode and pin hole leak because there is no ventilation, you won't even notice any fluid under the truck but enough of a pin hole leak to phuck things up.
 

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