Motor swap list...

[justin71105]

Getting fairly close to the beginning process of ordering a motor, have a few I am looking at and after throwing around several ideas the last few months. I am thinking the Vortec L31-R motor is going to be the way to go.* The price difference from the older style is not that much more for a better engine from what I have been reading, plan was to run Fitech but re-thinking that now.* I will likely run a carb to start and decide on going to Fitech later down the road.* Will likely not put enough miles on it to justify spending the extra 1k on it.

There are a few other odds and ends I didn't put down but most things will be moving from my 305 to the Vortec motor.* All my sensors and plugs are new, plugs and wires are brand new, so I'm swapping them over.* Going to try to get my headers and exhaust put on before the end of June so that will be done.* Will either order a pulley kit or sand blast abd paint mine.

Here is the list of items I have found so far I will need: Is there anything else missing besides gaskets and bolts? Probably need to shop around a bit for better pricing too, trying to keep it around 3k if I can or under.


1: Engine:* * * * * *https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283

2: Carb:* * * * * * * https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-14063

3: Intake:* * * * * *https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-226018-b

4: Distributor: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850050 or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001r/overview/

5: Water Pump:* *https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-252-711

6:Flex-plate* * * * *https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-399773/overview/make/chevrolet

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[1987 GMC Jimmy]

That looks about right. You're getting the whole long block so the odds and ends that people typically piddle with are already included. Your first link for the distributor was invalid for me, by the way. You mentioned sensors and other stuff transferring over, but it's a carbureted engine. What year is your truck?

 

[justin71105]

That looks about right. You're getting the whole long block so the odds and ends that people typically piddle with are already included. Your first link for the distributor was invalid for me, by the way. You mentioned sensors and other stuff transferring over, but it's a carbureted engine. What year is your truck?

Link should work now:


Its a 1987 Chevy Silverado R10, sensors would be oil pressure and temp, don't really know what others I need to swap over. I have throttle position, temp, oil pressure, ignition control module, map sensor, idle air control valve, EGR valve and electronic spark control. I am guessing the only ones I will retain is the oil pressure and temperature.....not sure

Will be my first time doing a swap on my own, been working towards the motor part since i bought it several months ago. First time rebuilding all the suspension and steering on a truck as well, usually just replace them as they break.




Factory 305 tbi and 700r4 still in it now. So far I have rebuilt all suspension and steering, new calipers, rotors, pads, lines, wheel bearings etc..... redone all the interior other than the seat, and now trying to sort out some paint issues. Will have it painted at a shop several years down the road but would like it decent for some cruise in's this summer. Paint is 15/15 right now.......looks good at 15 feet while driving 15 mph. I pulled the trim off down the side of the truck and could not get the double sided tape off it was "in" the paint. So now I am sanding this area down and re-painting, wet sanding and buffing over the next few weeks. Picture below is after a polishing compound and wax with buffer, looks ok except for were trim used to be.

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[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Its a 1987 r10, sensors would be oil pressure and temp, don't really know what others I need to swap over. I have throttle position, temp, oil pressure, ignition control module, map sensor, idle air control valve, EGR valve and electronic spark control. I am guessing the only ones I will retain is the oil pressure and temperature.....not sure

Will be my first time doing a swap on my own, been working towards the motor part since i bought it several months ago.

Factory 305 tbi and 700r4 right now. SO far I have rebuilt all suspension and steering pretty much redone all the interior other than the seat, and now trying to sort out some paint issues. Will have it painted at a shop several years down the road but would like it decent for some cruise in's this summer. Paint is 15/15 right now.......looks good at 15 feet while driving 15 mph. I pulled the trim off down the side of the truck and could not get the double sided tape off it was "in" the paint. So now I am sanding this area down and re-painting, wet sanding and buffing over the next few weeks. Picture below is after a polishing compound and wax with buffer, looks ok except for were trim used to be.

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Lol, I feel your pain on the paint aesthetics. I'm gonna knock mine out this summer when school's over. I've got a primered hood right now, and I hate **** like that. Anyways, I'm glad I brought up the sensors. Basically, nothing is gonna swap over from the TBI system since you're going to carb. The TBI ICM is nothing like the old HEI one except partially in function. Plus, that'll come with the new distributor. Your MAP, O2, IACV, TPS, CTS, FP Relay, ESC module, EGR valve and solenoid are gone. Your oil pressure safety switch would be good to keep to wire into the choke circuit unless you needed that for your fuel system. Your oil sender and temp sender would stay, of course. As far as fuel goes and the fuel sender goes, I don't know what you'd want to do there. If you got a pinout on the fuel pump relay, you could probably just energize it like the ECM normally would, keep the oil pressure safety switch in the loop, and use the in-tank pump since your block won't be equipped with mechanical pump provisions. You'd have to regulate that 13 PSI down to like 6-8 PSI if you went that route. When I was working on my old motorhome that used a hybrid fuel system of an in-tank TBI style pump and a mechanical pump on the block, they had an inline regulator on that system. They discontinued the factory part long ago, but I remember seeing that Holley had an effective replacement for it. Your other alternative would be to just get an external electric pump that works on carburetor pressure parameters, do a pumpless sending unit in the tank, and exercise extreme caution in selecting the location for that pump and plumbing the line for it. I'd try to extract the TBI harness and ECM intact. Those 7747 ECM's are very tuneable, and a good harness maybe worth something to someone on here or elsewhere trying to redo the engine wiring on their old TBI truck. Hell, I'd just organize and shelve the whole system in case you wanted it later or found someone who did.

 

[justin71105]

Plan for fuel is to put a tank in rear where spare tire was and run all new fuel line with an inline pump. Likely run high pressure line since I may eventually swap over to fitech efi.

Will have to read on oil pressure saftey switch and how to trigger the fuel pump on I guess.....all new territory for me.

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[1987 GMC Jimmy]

You'll definitely need a relay to make it work like the TBI system. It won't be hard at all, though. You'll get it. Oh, I almost forgot about torque converter lockup. The ECM controls that, too, so you'll either have to get a switch to control it manually or you'll have to get the pre-'87 parts and set it up like one of the carbureted ones. The former would be far easier, but the latter would be worry free if you could source the vacuum switch and whatever else you need.

 

[justin71105]

You'll definitely need a relay to make it work like the TBI system. It won't be hard at all, though. You'll get it. Oh, I almost forgot about torque converter lockup. The ECM controls that, too, so you'll either have to get a switch to control it manually or you'll have to get the pre-'87 parts and set it up like one of the carbureted ones. The former would be far easier, but the latter would be worry free if you could source the vacuum switch and whatever else you need.

Lmc carries a fuel pump module that may work.

Yea was debating on how to do lockup, right now its unplugged. Tcc solenoid is bad and will stay in lockup even after if downshifts, would stutter and die at redlights. Barely been driving it, although once I replace the shift indicator and get my cargo lamp seals I am going to try and drive it pretty regularly.

I have the circuit diagram on my computer for vacuum style lockup. May swap ovwr to it as fitech has no lockup provisiona either but will also work with vacuum style.

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[justin71105]

Changed up carb/intake for a ligtld better of a deal and the distributor for melonizdd gear for roller cam.


1: Engine:** https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283

2: Carb and Intake: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-03-0197

3: Distributor:** https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001-2

4: Water Pump:** https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-252-711

5: Flex-plate - From looking around the interweb, mine should work.....hopefully.

6: Fuel pump -- Probably get a electric 7 psi external pump and use a pressure regulator - Need to research a little more about whether I need a return line or not.

7: Trans lockup: Either get the painless performance Lock-up Vacuum kit or run a handheld controller.* Never had a controller so don't know really what all you need to set on it.

8: Do I need adapters for the oil pressure sensor or will mine thread in, will be using factory gauges and the sensor for the L31 looks different that the one on my motor

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