Lift Help

[cah2873]

I took the project truck to the mechanic today (which is my friend) to take a look at the lean in the truck. It has about 1-1/2" from side to side. He has looked the truck over and said that I probably need to get a new set of springs. The truck currently has blocks under the back spring packs that measure right at 4"- So I think it has a 4" lift. I have put new shock on last year. My question is: What are some opinions on this? I see one can buy individual springs from Skyjacker but then again you can buy a whole system from rough county for the same price. Also, if I go this far as to buying new springs, would it be better to upgrade to a 6" Lift? Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[bucket]

If you want more lift and bigger tires too, you may as well go with the 6 inch lift. However, that's the territory where driveline angles start to cause problems. But on an '80s K20, you should be OK still. The front shaft might be a little short. If you don't already have a raised steering arm (you really should with 4") you will need one.

With lift springs, the higher priced ones tend to ride the softest (comparable to stock).

 

[Swims350]

exactly right leafs run 150 each on summit front or rear, if you want new springs and want more lift or are ok with more lift then go 6. Rough country is the roughest out there, stiffest ride, if you're ok with it then get it. Basically like bucket said the only real things needed for a higher lift are shocks you can buy seperately and what you have now won't work, bigger lift, longer shocks. The raised steering arm is pretty well standard on all kits, anything bigger will require more, and by that I mean like 8 inch kits etc. I've got rc 6 on mine(project truck not driving yet) and a zero rate/e-z inch on the front, 4 inch block out back and add a leaf, my drag link is not flat like it was with the 4 inch kit, I think I'll get a drop pitman arm to make it flat again.

One thing I can tell you now, check the frame at the steering box and shocks, inspect good for cracks if you have none now buy the bolt in brace kit from ORD off road design to try and keep it from cracking. If you have cracks, fix them now and install the weld in brace for the steering box.

The other things are just like brake lines, make sure they have enough room or buy the extended flex lines, 4 inch you can usually get by without 6 you are gonna want to change them or make a way for the hard lines to come closer and give you enough length to flex fully.

If you want a front sway bar you'll need sway bar drops or the ones from ORD that bolt on the axle pads to raise the bottom with a 6 inch or so lift. We had to get them for our 4 because it wouldn't bolt up.

 

[bucket]

Actually, there are stiffer springs out there. Rancho and Procomp are pretty darn stiff, but I think the old Rancho springs (still available?) take the cake.

 

[theblindchicken]

If you get new lift springs for the rear, you'll have to get all new springs for the front as well to match.

If you go to 6" or higher, you'll more than likely be looking at new or extended driveshafts, probably need a set of angle shims to get the yoke angle back in line with the driveshaft to prevent binding, all new steering correction components, may need an extension on your parking brake cable as well as definitely needing longer brake lines if yours are already maxed out. Plus on top of all of that, you'll have to get a brand new set of shocks to match the height.

If you stay with the 4in, but just get new springs, then everything should still line up just the same. So any problems you have now won't get worse (may at first until the suspension settles again), your steering will already line up just fine and may only need a minor adjustment with the alignment, you won't need modifications to the driveshafts, lessened strain on everything and such. Get to stick with the shocks you have now.

For the cost, I'd stay with the 4 in you're at now and just get a new set of springs. But, if you want a lift and running bigger tires, then by all means go for it.

I love my Tuff Country EZ Rides in the front, shackle flip in the rear with the stock springs dampened by a set of Rancho RS9000XL shocks. A lot smoother and plusher than the original suspension (even after a zero rate, add a leaf in the front and a couple extra leaves in the rear).

 

[VAL]

I have Procomp's 6", and they were stiff as ****, until I removed the two bottom leaves, and added a zero-rate to keep the ride hight. Big difference in how it rides!

 

[Craig 85]

Which corner is lowest? I had 2 suburbans that sagged in the R/R due to torque load causing the spring to fatigue. It was also causing the truck to crab walk since the center line of the spring moved to the rear. If that is your problem spot, I would replace the rears first.

I've had 4 and 6" lifts in several of the trucks I owned. I prefer the 4" as they ride better. My 79 has a Tuff Country 4" soft ride with an ORD sway disconnect kit in front. It rides pretty nice. Much better than previous Rancho and Skyjacker kits I've had. I'll be using a Tuff Country 4" kit in my 85, but will get the heavy duty spring because it has a big block.

 

[cah2873]

It is the drivers side front and slightly back in the driver's side rear. We have since taken the springs off and found that the bushings in rear of the springs are worn out. I am not sure if this is the problem but we have ordered some to replace. They will be in tomorrow.

 

[theblindchicken]

It is the drivers side front and slightly back in the driver's side rear. We have since taken the springs off and found that the bushings in rear of the springs are worn out. I am not sure if this is the problem but we have ordered some to replace. They will be in tomorrow.

Yup. Those rubber bushings will definitely rot after time. All completely shot on my truck and only had about 90k miles in it's 40 years.