K5 Blazer Rear Drive Shaft Splines Showing After Lift

[buildin64]

Hi all,
Just finished a 4 in lift in my '75 K5 and now I see that the splines of the rear drive shaft are visible at least 1-1.25" outside of the yoke and it appears that the u joint is touching off on the drive shaft with the added angle due to the lift.
I read through many threads on this in this section of the site but not finding my answer.

My angle at the front of the rear drive shaft is 15 degrees between the transfer case and the shaft and the rear of the drive shaft is 5 degrees between the shaft and the pinion due to the angled shim on the bottom of the leaf.
So...I realize I have non uniform angles and I believe my drive shaft needs to be lengthen to get splines back into the yoke or a longer yoke?
Is the CV joint the right answer-gives improved angle and length?
Or I could lengthen the drive shaft and drop the transfer case but I don't think I could drop the case enough to get the angles at each end to be similar?

I never dreamed that a 4" lift would create these types of angle differentials.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I think we both suspect what the answer is, but let me call in an expert.

@Honky Kong jr

 

[Honky Kong jr]

No expert but I had to lengthen my front drive shaft. Mine is 6” lift though. My rear driveshaft is 53” at the U joint centers and front is 30”. I dropped my case 1” I have a shackle flip out back which does wonders for drive line angle and have a 5/8” relocation plate attached to the spring pack to move the axle back 1”. My slip yoke is about a 1/2” in further then stock orientation. Pics of what you got going on would be helpful

 

[Craig 85]

I know when I did a 6" lift on my '77 K5 I lowered the transfer case crossmember. I looked up Tuff Country Lifts and on their 6" kit it shows a transfer case drop kit #89TC. It looks like just a piece of bar stock. Look at Illustration #10 in the attachment. If you still have the shims pictured in the below photo, I would move them between the crossmember and the frame and see if it helps.
http://www.tuffcountry.com/wp-content/uploads/instructions/16711.pdf

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[buildin64]

Thanks all for the responses. You guys are awesome.
I am going out tonight and take some pictures and check the length of my rear drive shaft and how centered my rear wheel is the opening.
I got a good deal on the BDS front and rear 4" springs that someone decided not to use after they purchased them. I didn't have a nice complete kit like the rough country so I have done a little mixing and matching of components. My drive shaft in the front looks great with the lift. The rear is at such a severe angle at the transfer case and the spline engagement is so minimal I don't even want to drive it.
I will check back later with an update. Thanks.

 

[buildin64]

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Images showing the drive shaft angle at the transfer case yoke, about 15 degrees, and how much of the splines are showing.

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I did install the rear springs correctly with the thicker portion of the wedge at the rear to rock the pinion upwards? You can see from the side I don't think I would want to offset the rear axle any further rearward base on the opening.
My drive shaft length u joint center to center is 41".
Did any later model K5's have CV joint at the transfer case?
My K5 is an auto trans with full time 4wd..does that make the transfer case a NP205?

 

[Snoots]

TREMEC has a nice little app you can download that will help you properly setup your drive-line angle.

http://www.tremec.com/menu/tremec-toolbox-app/

 

[Craig 85]

You must be registered for see images attach

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Images showing the drive shaft angle at the transfer case yoke, about 15 degrees, and how much of the splines are showing.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I did install the rear springs correctly with the thicker portion of the wedge at the rear to rock the pinion upwards?
My K5 is an auto trans with full time 4wd..does that make the transfer case a NP205?

Yes the larger part of the wedge should be at the rear. Full time transfer cases are NP-203's. Here's a link to 203 vs. 205.
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Transfer Case ID Guide.htm

 

[colonel mustard]

youll need to convert to a CV driveshaft. max u joint angle on those are 12*. and it sounds like you need another 10* shim on the axle. pluis your driveshaft is too short anyways.

I just dropped my driveshaft off at my local driveline guy. 260$ for a double cardon put into my DS. I haven't gotten it back yet.

I'm 6" lift. just FYI

 

[buildin64]

Thanks everyone for the comments.
I am going to check into both approaches but I am leaning towards the CV as colonel mustard suggested and if that isn't enough I will look at dropping the transfer case some amount. Not crazy about the transfer case drop with the added stress on the motor mounts, exhaust and the clearance of the distributor to the firewall.