Irregular valve tip wear pattern

[SHOTROD81]

Hi, me again. I'm finally getting back to my valvetrain problems after a few weeks away. I'm trying to muster the ambition/confidence to do the clearance checks you all had suggested, but observed some other possible issues upon removing the old rockers. What could cause the small wear pattern on the valve at the bottom of the picture? Could the centerline of the stud not being parallel to that of the valve stem do this? A guide plate misaligned? I'm starting to think that I should invest in some aftermarket heads and sell these (modified iron Vortecs).

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Hi, me again. I'm finally getting back to my valvetrain problems after a few weeks away. I'm trying to muster the ambition/confidence to do the clearance checks you all had suggested, but observed some other possible issues upon removing the old rockers. What could cause the small wear pattern on the valve at the bottom of the picture? Could the centerline of the stud not being parallel to that of the valve stem do this? A guide plate misaligned? I'm starting to think that I should invest in some aftermarket heads and sell these (modified iron Vortecs).

You must be registered for see images attach

I'd say if you have solid lifters some one didn't set the lash right and also them valves are supposed to be able to spin in the guides which leaves kind of an asterisk pattern.(*) not a straight line.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I'd say if you have split lifters some one didn't set the lash right and also them valves are supposed to be able to spin in the guides which leaves kind of an asterisk pattern.(*) not a straight line.

. Newer big blocks had rotators under the springs to aid valve rotation.

 

[gpmorgan]

Before you removed the rockers, was there any valve lash at all. Definitely looks they were adjusted to tight. If you have the means, I would get rid of the vortec and get some good heads?

 

[SHOTROD81]

Before you removed the rockers, was there any valve lash at all. Definitely looks they were adjusted to tight. If you have the means, I would get rid of the vortec and get some good heads?

There was lash on all of them before they were removed.

Any recommendations on aftermarket heads without spending any more than I have to? I know there are a lot out there. I'm not extremely concerned about getting every little bit of power out of the engine, it already has way more than I need. I just want to get to a point where I don't feel like something else is going to break. After a little online browsing, it seems like most specify a max lift of around .575", but my current cam is running .628".

 

[gpmorgan]

As I said before, that's a lot of cam for the street. You can probably contact someone like RHS and they can install the correct springs you need for that cam or at least tell you what you need. They have a pretty good product. If those rockers had valve lash, the only other thing that might cause that would be coil bind or incorrect valve geometry perhaps.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I forgot that giant cam that wear is probably due to coil bind.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Also the rocker is not in the center, that's not good.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

And coil bind can bust rockers......

 

[74 Shortbed]

Yup...

 

[gpmorgan]

Actually there are other factors that are way above my head that might cause this sort of problem. Valve guide worn, incorrect machine work to the spring pockets, and I think there is also a clearance problem with the rocker stud boss on vortex heads with a large cam. I've also read that they need self aligning rockers??? At any rate, I think new heads would be better. I ran a 355 sbc 14 yrs with a 525 lift and camel hump heads without any problem. Before the 525 lift cam, it had a 602 lift and I ran it in a dirt track car for a couple of yrs. You need the correct springs for whatever lift cam you run. You should be able to get an aftermarket head with the springs for your cam.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

A more street friendly cam would do wonders. What kind of brakes did you have? That thing had to make almost no vacuum. My 306/580 made **** for vacuum that's why I went hydraboost.

 

[gpmorgan]

A more street friendly cam would do wonders. What kind of brakes did you have? That thing had to make almost no vacuum. My 306/580 made **** for vacuum that's why I went hydraboost.

Yeah, I bet the 306 is a real vacuum robber. Mine is a split duration 258 intake and 268 exhaust. The brakes work well as long as you don't pump them. The small block was about the same as the big block.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Yeah, I bet the 306 is a real vacuum robber. Mine is a split duration 258 intake and 268 exhaust. The brakes work well as long as you don't pump them.

Yeah, I wanted hydraboost anyway and this just helped me justify it. Lol

 

[SHOTROD81]

A more street friendly cam would do wonders. What kind of brakes did you have? That thing had to make almost no vacuum. My 306/580 made **** for vacuum that's why I went hydraboost.

I put a can and an electric vacuum pump in it last spring, which helped a lot. Before that, the pedal required quite a push to stop in any reasonable amount of distance.