Instrument Cluster printed circuit bypass

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jjewett444

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well it seems that I ran into a few problems with my printed circuit elimination. if and when I solve all of this I will post a how to thread with pics of what I did if anyone is interested. so I basically traced all wire tracings of printed circuit and ran my own wires from the back of the gauges with ring terminals and nuts on the back threaded portion of the gauges. I ran those right to the connector at bulkhead. I also eliminated the ground shorts by taping the backside of the gauge so my terminal doesn't hit the gauge case. well the current issues are fuel gauge pegged past full( was a good working gauge), temp sensor not working, and my voltmeter works but the needle moves left to right while turn signal is in operation LOL. most of the grounds share a common wire which happens to be #10 on the bulkhead connector so I don't think its a bad grnd. idk maybe someone smart person on here can tell me what I missed
 

bucket

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If you bypassed the printed circuit, what are you doing for gauge backlighting?

Also, you can bypass bad spots in the printed circuit by soldering in jumper wires. That way, you can still remove the cluster/gauges without having to undo a bunch of wires.
 

chengny

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1. so I basically traced all wire tracings of printed circuit and ran my own wires from the back of the gauges with ring terminals and nuts on the back threaded portion of the gauges.

Nothing wrong with that - sound marine engineering practice demands that electrical connections be made up with ring terminals fastened with nuts.

2. I ran those right to the connector at bulkhead.

On this one I have to assume that you are referring to just the sensing leg of each gauge - the hot leads and ground wires that connect to the gauges do not transit the FW. The hot leads are branched off the PNK/BLK 39 circuit that is supplied by the 20A IGN/GAUGE fuse. The ground leads are run directly to the common ground bus block - up by the parking brake operator.

I also eliminated the ground shorts by taping the backside of the gauge so my terminal doesn't hit the gauge case.

This one is a bit confusing. The cluster shell is constructed of plastic with a large air gap between the back of it and any steel component. There should be no danger of the terminal studs coming in contact with any metal. But I can't see where doing that would prevent the gauge from working.

well the current issues are fuel gauge pegged past full (was a good working gauge),

A gas gauge that gives a false - very high - indication is generally due to a broken/disconnected sensing leg lead

temp sensor not working,

Not enough information provided - need more. For example, is the indicator not moving off the low end, does it read very high but the engine is cool, is the pointer spinning around in circles, etc. Have you heated the sensor to a good cross-section of expected temperatures and measured the corresponding resistance across it (from terminal to the threaded part of the body)? Is its resistance being affected by the use of excessive amounts of teflon tape on the threads? See the chart below:

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and my voltmeter works but the needle moves left to right while turn signal is in operation.


Probably ground related issue - see no. 2


most of the grounds share a common wire which happens to be #10 on the bulkhead connector so I don't think its a bad grnd.

When you say most of the grounds (BTW, there are only 3 BLK 150's that are used to ground the cluster regardless of the style - base, gauge tach and no tach) go to a wire that happens to be #10 on the bulkhead connector, are you referring to the common grounding bus block - as shown here;


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Or this, which is called the main bulkhead connector and has no BLK 150's passing through it:

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If you bypassed the printed circuit, what are you doing for gauge backlighting?

Also, you can bypass bad spots in the printed circuit by soldering in jumper wires. That way, you can still remove the cluster/gauges without having to undo a bunch of wires.

I have the cheap led stick on lights behind the gauges on the white plastic housing. power wires spliced into potentiometer on headlamp switch and grounded at ground bus block. I wanted to eliminate the whole thing all together
 

jjewett444

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2).what I did is basically trace each printed tracing from the 18 pin connector and where it met the threaded pin at the gauge. some wire tracings from some of the gauge connector spots passed through other connector spots and or bulb connections instead of tracing directly from gauge connector to the 18 pin connector, so I followed the tracing the best I could.

at the backside of the gauges that have 3 legs there is one that goes through the metal housing but does not touch it. instead of placing the ring terminal on top of it and fastening it I placed a piece of electrical tape so the leg can poke through and make a barrier between the ring terminal and gauge housing, I did this because wasn't sure 1900 percent which was power or groud so I did not want a hot lead shorting on my gauge.

temp sensor appears to be working now. it wasn't moving with key on/key off on engine on but now it is

when I said ground #10 I also meant to include that both directional indicators and high beam indicator share #10 also. not sure why I called the cluster connector a bulkhead connector, I was typing this as I was waking up
 

jjewett444

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This is a stupid question I have but can anybody tell me why the fuel gauge has a ground when it seems from every diagram I find that it is fed 12v via ign, and grounded after the sending unit acting as a variable resistor/potentiometer?? idk why I don't understand the reasoning for this, Anyone?
 

jjewett444

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Problem Solved! When I wired my gauges directly I wanted a connector incase I ever remove the cluster, so I used u squarebody steering column connector the one that has like 1 wired or so, well my junkyard one did and I needed 11 for everything except the turn signal indicators and high beam indicicator lamps but I didn't care just wanted gauges so I found on another connector on the junkyard truck with the same pink male and female wires of the same type and popped them in the last remaining slot in my connector. Well as it turns out by removing and installing it the little tangs on the side must have weakend and the wire came loose from the connector so my pink wire #18 on cluster connector which is for fuel tank sending unit was the culprit.

chengy thanks, you the man. I appreciate all the help you gave me in this and prior problems ive had with my 1984 chevy headache lol
 

bucket

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This is a stupid question I have but can anybody tell me why the fuel gauge has a ground when it seems from every diagram I find that it is fed 12v via ign, and grounded after the sending unit acting as a variable resistor/potentiometer?? idk why I don't understand the reasoning for this, Anyone?

The gauge needs the ground to operate. The fuel sender is really no different than a temp or oil sender, except those ground through the engine block. Does that make sense?
 

chengny

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This is a stupid question I have but can anybody tell me why the fuel gauge has a ground when it seems from every diagram I find that it is fed 12v via ign, and grounded after the sending unit acting as a variable resistor/potentiometer?? idk why I don't understand the reasoning for this, Anyone?




I wrote this a few years ago - just as part of a general discussion on the gauge/sender/chassis ground relationship - and to make sure I had the theory of operation for these gauges straight in my mind;

The components mentioned above - when connected by the pink and blue wires - form the "sensing leg" of the gas gauge. And as Mr. Bucket suggests, the sensing legs of all the gauges are fundamentally the same - only the method of grounding (via the frame rail for gas gauge and into the engine block for coolant temp/oil pressure) differs from one sender to the other.

But, if I'm reading it right, it appears that your question is: Are there actually two grounds required for each gauge? And if so, what is the purpose of the second ground point?

The answer is yes: each gauge has two coils - each of which requires both a 12 VDC supply as well as a connection to ground. Read on.


12 volts is supplied to the positive terminal of the sender (via the pink wire). It's source is the negative side of the gauge's measuring coil.

The less resistance in this total combined circuit, the greater the electron flow through the coil wires - and consequently the stronger the force is that it (the measuring coil) can exert on the gauge's magnet. The magnet is attached to the lower end of the indicating needle.

Now, to answer your question:

In addition to the sensing leg, each gauge has another - opposing - circuit called the "control leg". It is identical to the sensing leg in every way except that the negative side of its coil is lead straight to ground - at the common ground bus block. This as opposed to first going through a variable resistance and then to ground like the sensing leg. Also, within the actual gauge, it's coil is located on the opposite side of the magnet from the measuring coil's. This is a schematic of the gas gauge:

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So what you have is; two coils located on either side of an indicating needle - AKA the "ray". The ray is pivoted somewhere in the middle and has an integral magnet mounted at the bottom. This shows a coolant gauge and should help explain the mechanical action of the needle:


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These coils create their own magnetic fields - the strength of which is a function of the electron flow (i.e. current) passing through them. When these circuits are energized - by turning the ignition switch to the RUN position - the opposing magnetic fields begin to "fight it out". Each coil tries to pull the magnet - mounted on the needle - towards itself.

Due to the fact that it's negative leg is run straight to ground - resulting in nearly zero resistance, the current flow through the control coil is essentially constant (as is it's magnetic force).

On the other hand, due to the variable resistance generated by the sender (as a result of changes in the fuel tank level), the current flow/magnetic strength of the measuring coil can be higher or lower than that of the control coil.

The location of the two coils - to the magnet - is such that:

1. The control leg is always trying to peg the indicating ray to the FULL end.

2. The sensing leg is always trying to peg the ray to the EMPTY end.

So as extreme examples:

1. If the pink wire to the sender is broken/disconnected the control leg exerts the greater force and pegs the needle Full.

2. If the pink wire is allowed to contact ground (before passing through the sender), the sensing leg has a greater force and the ray pegs low.


As GM explains it (better and way more succinctly than I can):

VARIABLE VOLTAGE TYPE
The variable voltage type dash gauge consists of two magnetic coils to which battery voltage is applied. The coils act on the gauge pointer and pull in opposite directions. One coil is grounded directly to the chassis, while the other coil is grounded through a variable resistor within the sending unit. Resistance through the sending unit determines current flow through its coil, and therefore pointer position.

When resistance is high in the sending unit, less current is allowed to flow through its coil, causing the gauge pointer to move toward the directly grounded coil.

When resistance in the sending unit decreases, more current is allowed to pass through its coil, increasing the magnetic field. The gauge pointer is then attracted toward the coil which is grounded through the sending unit.
 
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4WDKC

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You can use a plug from any type of car as long as it has the right about of wires, I used a weather pack plug from under the hood of a Honda when I installed the digital dash in my car.
 

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