HELP! Keep it stock or go a little aftermarket

[454-k10]

I picked up this 1982 K20 and it runs pretty good. It's almost all original under the hood. Air pump, air injection on the manifolds. It starts and runs well, but I'm debating headers. I've never had one like this, so original. But it doesn't have much power. The original air cleaner is still on it with the original stickers and everything. I'm really torn. What do you guys think?

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[Snoots]

1) Take a picture of the vacuum layout sticker that's on the side of the air cleaner.

You certainly don't see many unmolested engine bays like this after 36 years.
That's a nice find.
I'd be looking into the operation of the heat riser valve first. If you can get that open and lock it there you can release some power without really changing anything.

Headers would be nice but I won't go into that debate. You'll have to do a bit of research on those first.

You've taken a big step forward by getting pix of the engine bay layout that'll save you a lot of headache later.
If it runs well now without any hiccups, you might want to address the rusty areas first IMHO.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Woah.

I get the debate.Really I do..
My first thought was "make you happy" AND THEN I saw the pix.

I would be unable to change the look of that. Instead I would seek the compromise between "adding power" and keeping THAT look BECAUSE I believe THAT LOOK adds great value to the truck and once it's gone, it's gone.
I am unwilling to spend money to make a wholly disappointing amount of power to permanently devalue my truck.
If I want to go faster, I drive something faster.

I will always support doing what I -or you- want because 'Merica and stuff but I am forced to see it this way... I operate under the thought process that a vehicle is a financial INVESTMENT. Classic cars and trucks are one of a few readily handy appreciating assets that are available to the masses.

Meaning that "classic cars" (and trucks) are by default worth more money TOMORROW than they were TODAY, which is a main reason that I drive and own them. Never one without the other!
If you can't drive it AND enjoy it, why bother?

Money.

I think you'll take a big hit to the pocket if you go changing that from how it is, but doowutchalike...it might be worth it to you.
But you asked me and I say it's not worth it.
I would be quick to ditch those wheels though...

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[Rusty Nail]

As a point of interest and on a side note...since you made specific mention of it...
If you delete/disable/remove the "smog pump", you WILL lose horsepower and m.p.g.
Don't just take my word for it, those effects are WELL documented.

Just sayin.


You could remove the heads and send them to a porting service and introduce different pistons for improved performance without being able to tell by looking and if I was dead set on more HP, I would choose a similar route.

Good luck!

@Camatruder

 

[Crispy]

Best of both worlds solution coming right up:

Pull the whole unmolested, uninspired, underperforming motor out and swap in something with some balls. Keep the original unmolested engine a design piece in your garage.

I wish it was that easy. Really I think it depends on what your goals are with the truck. I dont think there is much more than sentimental value in keeping these trucks original if you plan on using them on a regular basis. They are slow at best. I also dont believe in spending money on bolt ons for these trucks just to get up to the HP of a Fiat 500. If you want to build a period correct show truck or weekend cruiser then by all means leave it just as it sits because as mentioned before its hard to find an all stock engine bay in these trucks anymore.

Me personally, I would yank that motor and replace it with something either newer and fuel injected (if thats your cup of tea) or build a higher compression, higher HP engine.

I do like the color combo with the newer wheels. Looks sharp.

 

[Rusty Nail]

 

[DoubleDingo]

Granted yours is a K20 so it has a few extra pounds to get moving, a vortec head swap, a good torquey cam, and a properly operating and adjusted q-jet would get you additional noticeable power, and you can keep all the stock items in place. Beside the orange paint and fancy valve covers you can't tell this has vortec heads unless you know what to look for. My smog guy loves this truck, says it has lots of pep. Of course he only gets to drive it a few feet, but I assure you adding the heads and 300hp/327 cam that has an awesome torque curve really woke up this sluggish beast. My vote is get a set of fresh vortec heads, a cam designed for bottom-end torque, a good dual plane spread bore vortec intake, get the carb rebuilt and working properly, and enjoy that beauty of a truck.

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[4WDKC]

You could swap on aftermarket iron heads painted to match and a cam to add the needed power to not be that old truck that pulls out into traffic and cant get out of its own way.

 

[82sbshortbed]

If your state doesn't require all that smog **** on it I'd remove it. A rebuilt Quadrajet, nice intake and set of headers is a fairly cheap and easy way to add hp to your truck. You're obviously unhappy with the power you're getting now. So I wouldn't worry about keeping it originally stock for someone else who likes that. However with that being said. I would keep all the stock parts you pull off so that later down the road if you want to sell it you still have all the stock parts to go with it. That way if someone wants a truck that' all stock you have the parts for them to do that.

Do what you want to the truck and don't worry about what someone else likes down the road. Enjoy it how you want it while you have it. Jmo

 

[454-k10]

1) Take a picture of the vacuum layout sticker that's on the side of the air cleaner.

You certainly don't see many unmolested engine bays like this after 36 years.
That's a nice find.
I'd be looking into the operation of the heat riser valve first. If you can get that open and lock it there you can release some power without really changing anything.

Headers would be nice but I won't go into that debate. You'll have to do a bit of research on those first.

You've taken a big step forward by getting pix of the engine bay layout that'll save you a lot of headache later.
If it runs well now without any hiccups, you might want to address the rusty areas first IMHO.

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Is the heat riser valve the one that doesn't have a hose on it? It looks like it is supposed to attach to the brown/tan port coming off the air cleaner but it's broken. I dont know if that's actually where it goes or not.

It runs good. Really smooth. It likes to die at just off idle as you accelerate. It smells like gas... bad and its getting worse mileage than my built big block. And, I mean it has power. I can cruise at 70-75 all day.

 

[454-k10]

Woah.

I get the debate.Really I do..
My first thought was "make you happy" AND THEN I saw the pix.

I would be unable to change the look of that. Instead I would seek the compromise between "adding power" and keeping THAT look BECAUSE I believe THAT LOOK adds great value to the truck and once it's gone, it's gone.
I am unwilling to spend money to make a wholly disappointing amount of power to permanently devalue my truck.
If I want to go faster, I drive something faster.

I will always support doing what I -or you- want because 'Merica and stuff but I am forced to see it this way... I operate under the thought process that a vehicle is a financial INVESTMENT. Classic cars and trucks are one of a few readily available appreciating assets that are available to the masses.

Meaning that "classic cars" (and trucks) are by default worth more money TOMORROW than they were TODAY, which is a main reason that I drive and own them. Never one without the other!
If you can't drive it AND enjoy it, why bother?

Money.

I think you'll take a big hit to the pocket if you go changing that from how it is, but doowutchalike...it might be worth it to you.
But you asked me and I say it's not worth it.
I would be quick to ditch those wheels though...

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I think I'll keep it factory and just tighten it up. I love the fact that it's all original. I saw it and freaked out.

 

[454-k10]

I really appreciate all the responses.

 

[Snoots]

Is the heat riser valve the one that doesn't have a hose on it?

Yes.
I'm not certain that it goes to the (broken) port off of the air cleaner. I could very well be wrong. As the vent in the air cleaner snorkel opens, that valve should open as well. Supposed to reduce the oxides and help the engine to run and idle properly when it's cold.
The heat riser valve has a BIG issue with freezing/rusting shut. You can try lots of PB Blaster on the pin (both sides) and try moving it. You may need some tools to coax it. If it freezes in the closed position then the engine works OT to try and get the exhaust out. This will cause a loss of power.

 

[454-k10]

Does anyone know where to get one of these vacuum ports?

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[454-k10]

When I got it, it was pinging so bad. It was at 40 deg advanced. The sticker on the air cleaner says 4 deg, I put it at 6-8 deg. It runs better but has trouble starting when cold. Usually takes 3 cranks and 5 pumps on the accelerator. Maybe it's that heat riser....